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butter, browning

Brown butter, or beurre noisette, refers to butter that has been melted and cooked until golden brown. Browning—not burning—the butter over medium-low heat cooks the milk solids in the butter, thus intensifying the butter flavor. This is a classic French technique that adds a full, nutty, buttery flavor to foods. Here’s how to do it.

Melt the butter in a heavy saucepan over medium-low heat.

Continue to cook, stirring occasionally, until the butter is browned to the desired color indicated in the recipe. The length of time will vary depending on the amount of butter. Remove from heat.

buttering & flouring a pan

Thoroughly buttering a baking pan and then coating it with a light layer of flour is the best way to ensure that your finished dessert releases from the pan completely.

Using a pastry brush or clean fingers, coat the inside surface of the baking pan thoroughly with softened butter, making sure to cover all surfaces and reaching into corners and grooves.

Sprinkle the pan with about 2 tablespoons of flour [1].

Tilt and tap the pan gently to coat all surfaces with flour [2].

Invert the pan and tap out any excess flour.

butter & sugar, creaming

Beating sugar and butter until fluffy is called “creaming.” This step is important, as it incorporates air into the final product.

Make sure the butter is at room temperature and soft so that it creams properly with the sugar. If your butter is cold and firm, you can cut it into slices and microwave it on low for a few seconds (be sure not to melt the butter). The butter should be soft enough that you can easily press your finger into it and leave a distinct mark.

Beat butter and sugar in a large bowl until light and fluffy. This is easiest with an electric mixer, but can be done by hand with a wooden spoon.

The butter and sugar mixture should have the consistency of fluffy frosting and should be very pale in color.

caramel

Making caramel takes some practice. First make sure you have the right equipment, then follow the recipe directions precisely—and be very careful when working with hot caramel. If you’re new to making caramel, keep in mind these tips:

Use a heavy-duty nonreactive pan with a secure handle and a shiny or light-colored interior. Heavy-duty pans ensure even heat. A secure grip helps keep the pan under control (getting burned by hot sugar is no fun). And a pan with a reflective (not dark) interior makes color changes easy to see.

Dissolve the sugar in the liquid according to the recipe directions. To make sure the sugar is totally dissolved, dip a spoon in, then rub a drop of the syrup between your thumb and finger (the syrup will still be cool enough to touch at this point). If you feel grainy bits, keep stirring over low heat. If not, continue with the recipe.

Brush down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush to dissolve any sugar crystals. Otherwise, the finished caramel may have a grainy texture.

As soon as the syrup in the pan turns golden, the difference between light, medium, and dark caramel occurs in a matter of seconds. What’s in the pan is much too hot to taste safely and could burn you badly. Instead, rely on visual cues or a candy thermometer:Color: Light amberTemperature: 330°F to 340°FFlavor: MildColor: Medium amberTemperature: 355°F to 360°FFlavor: Distinctively roastyColor: Dark amberTemperature: 375°F to 380°FFlavor: Intense, with an almost bitter edge

If you’re adding cream (or other ingredients), stand back—the hot caramel syrup will bubble vigorously and could burn you.

chocolate, melting

Always chop chocolate to ensure even melting: Score lines in the chocolate with a large sharp knife; the pieces should be no larger than a half inch. Press a knife firmly with the heel of your hand along the score lines to chop.

Place the chopped chocolate in a metal bowl set over barely simmering water.

Stir the chocolate constantly; it can burn easily. A silicone spatula works well because the silicone will not impart any off flavors to the chocolate. Stir until the chocolate is smooth.

When melting chocolate with other ingredients, such as butter or cream, use a heavy saucepan over low heat and stir the mixture constantly.

chocolate curls

Chocolate curls lend a festive finish to all kinds of desserts, from simple cupcakes to sophisticated mousses. And they are incredibly easy to make.

Set a large chunk or bar of chocolate in a warm place to soften slightly (but not melt). Or gently warm chocolate in a microwave oven: Place the chocolate on a paper towel and heat it on the lowest setting at 5-second intervals until just warm.

Working over a sheet of waxed paper, firmly grasp the chocolate in one hand and, using a sharp vegetable peeler, shave curls from the chocolate onto the waxed paper. (If the chocolate breaks into small pieces, it is probably too cold.)

Use the waxed paper to transfer the chocolate curls: Lift the edges of the paper and carefully slide the chocolate curls and shavings onto the dessert or into an airtight plastic container. Store chocolate curls in a cool, dry place for up to a week.

chocolate leaves

Chocolate leaves are an elegant way to decorate cakes, mousses, and cheesecakes.

Select semirigid, waxy, nontoxic leaves. Camellia or citrus leaves, particularly lemon leaves, work well.

Line a large baking sheet with foil or waxed paper.

Using a small offset spatula or small brush, coat the back of a leaf with a thin, even layer of melted chocolate, about inch thick, being careful not to let the chocolate drip over the edge of the leaf [1]. Transfer the leaf to the baking sheet.

Repeat the process, making as many leaves as desired.

Refrigerate or freeze the leaves until firm.

Grasp the stem end of the leaf with your fingertips or tweezers and carefully peel it away from the chocolate [2]. Store the leaves in the refrigerator in a single layer in a waxed paper-lined sealable plastic container. Handle the leaves as little as possible; the heat from your fingers will melt and mar the delicate chocolate.

cream, whipping

Beat chilled whipping cream (taken directly from the refrigerator) in a large bowl. To get the best texture and volume from whipped cream, be sure that the bowl and beaters are chilled as well.

If whipping by hand, use a large balloon whisk and whisk the cream until desired peaks form.

If using an electric mixer:

Begin whipping the cream at medium-high speed, then reduce the speed to low as soon as the cream begins to thicken.

Continue to whip the cream until desired peaks form.

Do not overbeat the cream; overwhipped cream will break and curdle—meaning that the dairy fat will separate from the liquid, forming small clumps of butter.

Sweeten and flavor whipped cream to your taste: Use honey, maple syrup, agave nectar, powdered sugar, or brown sugar in place of granulated sugar, if you like, and flavor with citrus zests, spices, liqueurs, and extracts.

When is cream whipped enough?• When serving whipped cream as a garnish, whip it just until it thickens and forms loose peaks when the beaters are lifted.• When using it as a frosting or in a mousse, whip the cream to medium peaks. (It will continue to thicken as it’s used.)• For piping, whip the cream until firmer peaks form.

custard, crème anglaise, or ice-cream base

Here’s how to make crème anglaise or a stirred custard for ice cream without curdling the eggs.