Bring the cream or milk mixture to a simmer in a heavy saucepan.
Whisk the egg yolk and sugar mixture in a large bowl until very well blended.
Gradually beat the hot milk or cream mixture into the egg-yolk mixture.
Return the custard mixture to the saucepan and stir with a wooden spoon or a silicone spatula over the heat level indicated in the recipe, just until thickened. Be very careful not to allow the custard to boil, as boiling will cause the eggs to curdle (which is basically scrambling).
It is fairly easy to judge with your eye whether the custard is properly cooked—it will thicken slightly and your finger will leave a path on the back of a spoon when drawn across it [1]—but it is safest to use an instant-read thermometer. Cook the custard to 170°F to ensure proper thickening and to avoid curdling.
Once the custard reaches the proper temperature, immediately remove it from the heat and transfer to a large bowl.
custard, zabaglione
Zabaglione (in Italian) or sabayon (in French) is a traditional custard preparation made by whisking egg yolks with sugar and liquid (usually wine) over a double boiler until light and fluffy. The beating is done over simmering water so that the egg yolks cook as they thicken into a light, foamy custard.
Select a metal bowl that fits above a medium-size saucepan so that the bulk of the bowl sits over the water (but does not touch the water) and does not come into direct contact with the heat from the sides of the saucepan.
Using a large wire whisk, beat vigorously and continuously until an instant-read thermometer reads 160°F
Remove the bowl from over the water as soon as the zabaglione is cooked.
eggs, separating
Break the egg open by striking it against the edge of a bowl.
Carefully open the egg by pulling the top half of the shell from the bottom, making sure that the bottom half forms a cup that holds the egg yolk.
Let the egg white drain from the eggshell into the bowl. If necessary, pass the egg yolk carefully from one half of the eggshell to the other to remove all of the egg white.
egg whites, beating
Egg whites will increase eight times in volume as you beat them. To ensure that they don’t lose volume, only beat the egg whites once all of your other ingredients are ready, your pan is prepared, and your oven is preheated.
Choose a large deep stainless steel, copper, or glass bowl. Do not use aluminum, as it will turn egg whites gray. Make sure the bowl is clean and dry.
Using the wire whip attachment of an electric mixer or a large balloon whisk, beat the egg whites without stopping until they form soft peaks [1] or firm peaks [2], according to the recipe instructions. Make sure not to overbeat them (egg whites can become dry and grainy).
folding
Folding refers to the blending of two ingredients (usually including whipped cream or whipped egg whites) without stirring, so as not to deflate, or remove air from, the mixture.
Carefully draw a rubber spatula down [1] and across the ingredients in a large bowl toward the edge of the bowl, pulling the ingredients from the bottom and folding them over the top of the mixture [2].
Repeat the process just until the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated, being careful to work quickly but gently.
fruit, preparing
How to: dice a mango
Stand the mango on one end with a tapered side toward you. Slice off each long side, cutting as close to the pit as possible.
With the tip of a knife, cut a crosshatch pattern in the flesh of each section, cutting down to (but not through) the skin [1].
Press on the back of the skin on each section, turning it inside out so that the flesh pops up. Cut the cubes off the skin with a knife [2].
Slice any remaining flesh off the pit, then dice.
How to: grate citrus peel
Use a very sharp handheld grater. Hold the citrus firmly in one hand and draw the grater across the surface of the fruit to remove just the colored surface of the peel, not the white pith, which is bitter.
Continue turning the fruit and grating the peel until the peel is removed or you have the amount called for in the recipe.
How to: remove citrus peel (zest)
For long, thin strips of peel, remove the outer layer of the peel (not the white pith) with a vegetable peeler.
Trim the peel or thinly slice the peel according to the recipe instructions.
How to: segment citrus fruit
Citrus sections without any peel, pith, or membrane are called “supremes.”
Use a thin knife to cut off the stem end of the fruit, just to the point of exposing the flesh. Cut off the opposite end [1].
Place the fruit, cut side down, on the work surface and cut away the peel and pith while following the contour of the flesh [2].
Place the citrus on its side and cut carefully between the membranes to release the segments [3].
How to: peel peaches
Bring a large saucepan of water to boil.
Using a small sharp knife, mark an X on the bottom of each peach.
Using a slotted spoon, gently lower the peaches into the boiling water and blanch (cook briefly) for 30 seconds.
Transfer the peaches to a strainer and rinse under cold water, or plunge into a bowl of ice water to cool.
Slip the skins off the peaches with your fingertips.
EVEN EASIER: Purchase a serrated peeler, which makes quick work of peeling fresh peaches and eliminates the need for blanching. Serrated peelers are available at many supermarkets and at kitchen supply stores.
How to: peel pineapple
Using a long serrated knife, cut off the leafy top end of the pineapple first, then cut off the base.
Stand the bottom of the pineapple on the cutting board. Starting at the top of the fruit, cut away the skin, following the contour of the fruit.
Using a small paring knife or the gouging end of a vegetable peeler, remove any remaining brown eyes from the flesh.
ice cream, softening
Let ice cream stand at room temperature for 10 to 15 minutes, until it is easy to scoop and serve.
Alternatively, place the ice-cream carton in the microwave and heat on low power at 10-second intervals until it is soft enough to scoop.
make your own …
Baking powder: Whisk 2 tablespoons cream of tartar with 1 tablespoon baking soda and 1½ tablespoons cornstarch; make sure mixture is well blended.
Crème fraîche: Combine 1 cup heavy whipping cream and 2 tablespoons buttermilk in a glass container. Cover and let stand at room temperature until thickened, 8 to 24 hours. Stir well and chill until serving time.
Greek-style yogurt: Place regular yogurt in a cheesecloth-lined strainer set over a large bowl. Cover and chill overnight to drain (the yogurt will thicken).
Mascarpone cheese: Blend 8 ounces cream cheese with ¼ cup whipping cream and 2½ tablespoons sour cream.
Self-rising flour: Add 1½ teaspoons baking powder and ¼ teaspoon salt to 1 cup all purpose flour to equal 1 cup of self-rising flour.
measuring flour
It is critically important to measure flour properly when baking—even a tablespoon or so too many or too few can alter a recipe’s results.
Today’s supermarket flour is pre-sifted, so unless a recipe calls for flour to be sifted before measuring, it is not necessary to do so.