tapioca, quick-cooking
WHAT: A starchy thickener derived from the cassava plant.
USES: Thickens the fruit juices in cobblers, pies, crisps, and other desserts. Don’t use regular tapioca pearls, which are much larger and won’t soften and dissolve properly.
FIND: In the baking aisle.
STORE: Can be kept in a cool, dry place for two to three years.
vanilla
WHAT: Vanilla adds a sweet perfume and underlying flavor to desserts. It comes in three forms:
Vanilla beans are actually long, thin, dried pods of a tropical orchid; Madagascar and Tahiti produce high-quality vanilla beans. Vanilla beans have an exotic flavor that is more complex than that of vanilla extract. The pods are usually split lengthwise with the point of a knife, exposing the fragrant tiny, black, sticky vanilla seeds (see page 38 for tips on doing this). Typically, the pods are then steeped in a hot liquid or the seeds are scraped out and added to the batters.
Vanilla extract is the most commonly used type of vanilla. Vanilla beans are chopped and soaked in an alcohol-water solution, which is then aged for several months. Vanilla extract has a deep brown color, a slightly syrupy consistency, and a rich perfume. Always use pure vanilla extract, as imitation vanilla is inferior in quality and taste. One teaspoon of vanilla extract can be substituted for a 2-inch piece of vanilla bean (or a 1-inch piece of Tahitian vanilla bean). For the best results, add vanilla extract to mixtures that are slightly cooled; heat weakens vanilla extract’s flavor.
Vanilla paste is a concentrated form of vanilla extract and includes the pretty flecks of fresh vanilla bean seeds. If you have it on hand, you can use it as a substitute for vanilla beans; 1 tablespoon of vanilla paste is the equivalent of one whole vanilla bean.
USES: Vanilla is extremely versatile and can stand alone in puddings, custards, sauces, ice cream, cakes, and cookies, or be paired with other intense flavors such as chocolate, coffee, and spices.
FIND: Vanilla beans are available in the spice aisle of most supermarkets and at natural foods stores and specialty foods stores. Look for pods that are plump, pliable, and slightly moist. Vanilla extract is in the spice aisle at the supermarket. Vanilla paste is available at specialty foods stores and online.
STORE: Wrap vanilla beans in plastic and store in an airtight jar in the refrigerator for up to six months. Vanilla extract and vanilla paste keep indefinitely when stored airtight in a cool, dark place.
wine & spirits
WHAT: Wines, liqueurs, and spirits add sophisticated flavor and aroma to desserts. The following wines, liqueurs, and spirits are used most often in this book.
FORTIFIED WINES
Fortified wines are those that have had brandy or another spirit added to them, either during or after the fermentation process. When the spirit is added during fermentation, it stops the fermentation and leaves more sugar in the wine, resulting in a sweet and strong product.
Port is a sweet, fortified wine. Available varieties include Porto, ruby Port, tawny Port, and vintage Port. Ruby is most frequently used in the recipes in this book; ruby Port has a darker red color and fruitier flavor than tawny Port.
Muscat is a sweet wine made from Muscat grapes; it can range in color from white to deep, rich pink, but most of the versions called for in this book will be white (pale gold). Muscat wines are made in many countries and go by different names, includin Beaumes-de-Venise, a type of fortified Muscat wine from the village of Beaumes-de-Venise, France; moscato, made in Italy; and Essensia, a brand of fortified sweet dessert wine made in California from perfumey Orange Muscat grapes.
Marsala is an Italian fortified wine. It is commonly available as sweet or fine (dry), and is typically used in tiramisù and zabaglione.
Madeira is a Portuguese fortified white wine with an amber color. It is similar to sherry and ranges from sweet to dry.
Sherry is a fortified wine. It ranges from dry (fino or manzanilla) to sweet (oloroso; cream, a kind of oloroso sherry; amoroso; or amontillado, which has a nutty flavor).
LIQUEURS
Liqueurs are sweetened alcoholic beverages made by adding sugar to distilled alcohol and flavoring it with fruit, nuts, herbs, or spices.
Grand Marnier is a Cognac-based liqueur with an orange flavor. Cointreau or other orange liqueurs can usually be substituted.
Amaretto is a liqueur, originally from Italy, with an almond flavor.
Chambord is a French liqueur with a black raspberry flavor and a deep ruby color.
Kahlúa is a Mexican liqueur with a rich roasted coffee flavor and a dark brown color.
Frangelico is a hazelnut-flavored liqueur with a pale golden color.
SPIRITS
Brandy is distilled from either wine or another fermented fruit juice. Armagnac is the limousine of brandies. It has more flavor and a smoother texture than any other brandy. Cognac makes the best substitute.
Eau-de-vie is a clear brandy or other spirit distilled from fermented wine or fruit juice. Kirsch (made from cherries), framboise (made from raspberries), and poire Williams (made from pears) are popular eaux-de-vies.
Rum is distilled from fermented sugarcane. It is available clear (or light), and dark. Most recipes in this book that use rum call for dark rum.
Whiskey is distilled from a mash of fermented grains such as corn, rye, and barley. Whisky from Scotland (spelled without an “e”) is called Scotch and is made from a mash of barley. Bourbon is an American whiskey made mostly from a mash of corn. Irish whiskey is made from barley and other grains.
USES: Wines, liqueurs, and spirits can be paired with other ingredients of similar flavor—amaretto with almonds, for example, or Grand Marnier with fresh oranges. Or they may provide the focal point of flavor for a dessert.
FIND: All of these wines, liqueurs, and spirits can be found at liquor stores or in the liquor aisle of supermarkets and specialty foods stores.
STORE: In a cool, dry place. Unopened, liqueurs can last indefinitely. Once opened, fortified wines should be used within a few weeks (buy half-bottles if you don’t think you’ll be able to use a whole bottle that quickly). Liqueurs can last up to three years once opened; distilled spirits up to two years.
yeast, dry
WHAT: Dry yeast, also called active dry yeast, comes as dehydrated granules in small packets and jars. Dry yeast acts as the leavening (rising) agent in dough; when mixed with other ingredients, such as flour, water, and sugar, and allowed to sit in a warm place, yeast converts these ingredients into carbon dioxide and alcohol. The alcohol burns off while the carbon dioxide causes the dough to rise. Dry yeast is available as regular and quick-rising (also known as rapid-rise) yeast.
USES: To activate (or proof) yeast, combine it with a warm liquid (105°F to 115°F), as instructed in the recipe. Use an instant-read thermometer to check the temperature; never use a liquid that is too hot or too cold, as doing so can slow the yeast’s growth or even kill it. If the mixture doesn’t foam after 10 to 15 minutes, the yeast is not active, and you need to start again with a new package of yeast.