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Esperanto world than in the general population; it literally

transforms a world of peoples into a familia rondo, a family circle.)

But Wayne’s not much of a traveler; “I’m a stay-at-home,

midwestern guy.” Not once in our conversation does he bring up the

movement; the Universal Congress, which he does not attend; nor

the interna ideo.

“Esperantists imagine enormous projects—great ideas—and then:

who’s going to do this? And they look at one another and then at

their feet. They feel they have to spread the ideals and the language,

but I don’t. It’s the same with my religion. It’s mine; I don’t need to

convince anyone else. If Esperanto brings me together with two or

three interesting people here and there, great. It usually does.

Esperanto may be a moveable feast, but NASK is Brigadoon—a

magical town that comes into being once a year, then just as

mysteriously disappears.”

One afternoon, Wayne presents me with a yellowed, dog-eared

copy of the famous 1952 Kvaropo (Quartet), a breakthrough debut

for the “Scottish school” of Esperanto poets: William Auld, Reto

Rossetti, John Sharp Dinwoodie, and John Francis. This copy has

been sitting for decades in the traveling NASK library, but Wayne

tells me to keep it, as a kind of therapy—for the book, that is. “The

best thing for it,” he says, handing me the book, “is to be read.” We

read a few poems aloud. Wayne points out that Esperanto poetics

frowns upon rhyming suffixes (including rhymed verb endings, a

staple for Italian sonneteers) as third-rate technique. In fact, there is

a name for it—adasismo—a word coined by one of the earliest

Esperanto poets, Antoni Grabowski, from the chief offense: rhyming

-adas endings (kuradas, “continues to run”; staradas, “continues to

stand”). The term adasismo appears in the 1932 Parnasa Gvidlibro

(Parnassian Guidebook), the first handbook of Esperanto poetics.

Co-authored by the two preeminent men of Esperanto letters, the

Hungarian poet Kálmán Kalocsay and the French grammarian and

lexicographer Gaston Waringhien, the Gvidlibro is famous for its

witty rhyming satires of bad poetic practice.

Also on the NASK bookshelf is the Esperanta Antologio, a classic

anthology first published in 1958, edited by William Auld. I’d been

introduced to it a few months earlier by *Humphrey Tonkin, an

eminent man of letters in the Esperanto world and a professor

emeritus of English Renaissance literature. When I met him at his

home in Hartford, Connecticut, he greeted me in white khakis, a

blue seersucker shirt, and moccasins. With a pink complexion and

bushy white brows, he looks like an actor playing a university

president, which is what he was, from 1989 to 1998, at the

University of Hartford.

An Esperantist for more than half a century, Tonkin explained

that Esperanto’s system of word building offers poets a fantastic

degree of flexibility. Sometimes these constructions are clunky;

moreover, since almost all Esperanto words are accented on the

penultimate syllable, they are hard to scan in poetic meter, which

generally alternates strong and weak beats. Sometimes neologisms

are coined to avoid them, but poets have another arrow in their

quiver: eliding the “o” ending of singular nouns, which shifts the

accent to the final syllable. But even without neologisms,

agglutination is a small price to pay for turning Clark Kent roots

into superwords, garbing the most everyday vocabulary with a dark

cape of metaphor.

Before I ever uttered a sentence in Esperanto, Tonkin walked me

through one of his favorite poems, a tiny gem by Victor Sadler:

Mi

(kiam en la kuniklejo de via sako

Vi furioze fosas pro bileto, kiu

Tre verŝajne jam eskapis)

Amas vin.

(Kien, cetere, vi metis

Mian koron?)

A literal rendering in English would go something like this:

I(when in the rabbit-hole of your bag

You furiously dig for a ticket

Which probably already escaped)

Love you.

(Where, by the way, did you put

My heart?)

In English, a hybrid of Anglo-Saxon and French, we are spoiled

for lexical choice; kuniklejo might be translated “rabbit-hole,”

“warren,” or “hutch.” Esperanto’s scarcer resources, however, turn

out to be a great boon. Calling the handbag a kuniklejo magically

turns it into a rabbity place instead of comparing it to a “hole” or

“warren” or “hutch.” In the first stanza, the subject “I” is trailed by a

long parenthetical modifier which provides the atmosphere in which

the declarative statement “I love you” lives and breathes. Even after

the delayed verb and adjective appear, the image of the woman

furiously digging in her bag arrives whole and indelibly, the raison

d’être of the poet’s love.

The importance of the adverbial phrase in Sadler’s poem points to

a truth about adverbs: they are the Esperantist poet’s most coveted

superpower. Because any root has the potential to become an

adverb by taking an -e ending, adverbs can propel Esperanto poems

into elliptical orbits, making them hard to translate. The “adverb

thing,” as one of the NASK students calls it, has made its way like a

termite into the lumber of colloquial Esperanto. Where an English

speaker might look out on a brilliant day and exclaim, “It’s sunny!”

an Esperanto speaker would say simply “Sune!” (Sunnily!) or “Brile!”

(Brilliantly!). One night, after a few beers, a student named Bernard

walks into a party to find all the folding chairs in disarray. He

pauses to take it in: “Seĝe!” is all he says—“Chairily!”—and all he

needs to say. “Kiel vivi vegane” (“How to Live Veganly”) is the name

of a leaflet Slim distributes the night he gives his gruesome

PowerPoint presentation about agribusiness. After showing a clip of

little chicks being poured into a macerating machine, he ends with a

picture of a hundo manĝata telere; a dog being eaten on bone china

“platedly.”

5. Filipo and Nini

Three days into the program, a new student arrives. He’s a pudgy,

florid man with white hair and a sparse, floury beard, around fifty,

introducing himself as Filipo Vinbergo de Los-anĝeloso. An

Esperanto first name is not uncommon at Esperanto gatherings, but

a surname? Okay, Philip Weinberg from LA, have it your way. On both

hands he wears compression bandages, from which protrude ten

swollen fingers. I introduce myself and ask him the old standby: “Pri

kio vi laboras?” (What work do you do?) Amid the ensuing avalanche

of expression, I can’t catch his job. I’d later discover that he doesn’t

have one, and who or what supports him—a pension? family?

disability insurance?—is a subject he never broaches, nor do I.

At dinner, Filipo tells me he’s an amateur lexicographer: “My

friend Charles, from Nigeria, and I have written an Ibo-Esperanto

dictionary,” he says breathlessly. “We noted the usage codes in the

big dictionaries and transposed each of them into colors to be used

to teach Ibo children Esperanto.” I’m not sure who’s teaching Ibo