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many women in here, are there?” I say.

Wayne picks up the anthology and pages through it. “Here’s one

by a woman,” he says, handing the book back. “The only American

in the volume.”

The poem is called “La Kialo Estas” (The Reason Is) and the poet is

none other than Nini Martin-Sanders. She wrote it forty years ago,

in memory of D. E. Parrish, a fifty-year mainstay of the U.S.

Esperanto movement. In 1969, Parrish was mowing his lawn in Los

Angeles with a power mower when suddenly his next-door neighbor

pulled out a rifle and shot him dead. The noise, she said afterward,

had been bothering her.

In Nini’s poem, the neighbor is not simply an insane woman; she

is a freneza nigrulino (“crazy Negress”) and her violent act is

motivated not by delusions, per se, but by racial hatred.

Ial …

Ial ni malamas la alian

Ial ni tranĉas for

Ial ni rigardas nur

Niajn haŭtojn … niajn eksteraĵojn

Ial ni batalas

Fratoj kontraŭ fratoj.

(For some reason.…

For some reason, we hate one another

For some reason, we slice away

For some reason we only

Look at our skin—our exterior

For some reason we battle

Brothers against brothers.)

It’s full of compassion and outrage, but as a poem, amateurish,

vapid, left over from the heydey of National Brotherhood Week.

Why racism, why violence, why are we humans so inhuman to one

another? Why, why, why? The answer, Nini’s poem seems to say, is

that the heart, on this summer afternoon in Los Angeles, has its

reasons, however murderous and racist.

When Nini reads her poem at our final gathering, in a feathery

voice, the event of forty years ago suddenly seems to have happened

just moments ago. When she’s finished, a brief silence, then a ripple

of applause that grows louder and more rhythmic. Standing at the

podium pleased and slightly baffled, Nini finally shuffles back to her

seat.

There’s been no rehearsal, but all the readers have practiced,

reciting with vigor and clarity, several from memory. Puckish Sonja

from Mexico reads a self-mocking Esperanto standby, “Mi estas

Esperantisto,” and Meja, Sadler’s little poem about a woman

rummaging in her rabbit-warren purse. Filipo comes out as the

anonymous poet of the daily newsletter, reading a poem for his

brother. Tero reads a poem about Lady Godiva, and Steĉjo chants

the “Siberian Lullaby” of Julio Baghy—more a spell than a poem:

“Hirte flirte flugas haroj / Siblas vintra vent’/Morde torde ŝiras koron

/Larmoj kaj la sent’…” To cap off the reading, Bernard recites Auld’s

famous poem “Ebrio” (Drunkenness), which mimics the slushy diction

of inebriation: “Ŝuvi puvi povi-povaŝ…” Bernard has it by heart,

lurching and swaying until finally, emitting the last word, naŭzo

(nausea), he runs offstage, retching, to wild applause.

Diplomas are presented and each of us, even the komencantoj

(beginners), make off-the-cuff remarks, thank-yous strung like

cranberries. The college students say the last three weeks have been

a blast, a hoot, an incredible party; the older students talk about the

NASK family and how they will miss it until next summer. Greta

plays flute to Benedikt’s Spanish guitar, and the evening closes with

a song written and performed by ponytailed Roberto, an aspiring

animator, currently a clerk in a health food store. He takes the

stage, lifts his guitar, and in a fine tenor takes us deep into a

honeyed sadness that seems to last weeks, years, eons; his voice rises

and falls, from peaks to valleys, cliffs to caves. For such a journey,

for such sweetness, applause seems rather beside the point. When

Roberto’s voice fades to silence, people simply go up, one by one,

and throw their arms around him.

* * *

The morning of our departure, we assemble in a large classroom for

an evaluation session. Professor *Grant Goodall, a primo Esperantist

and our liaison in the UCSD Department of Linguistics, says (in

English) that he wants to hear from al of us; for the benefit of

beginners, he welcomes our candid responses in English. Though it’s

ironic that English, not Esperanto, promises the most egalitarian

discussion, it is a deeply Esperantist gesture.

It is the first time I’ve heard any of the NASKanoj speak English.

One by one, we strip off our fantastical eucalyptus masks. Christy,

from Raleigh, has a soft Carolina twang that makes her sound even

younger than seventeen; Filipo sounds like he’s still in New York on

West Seventy-second Street, eating blintzes. Nini sounds like a

kindergarten teacher, which is what she was for decades, decades

ago. Steĉjo turns out to be a kid from Long Island; Meja sounds like

the UCSD students skateboarding near the bookstore; and Bernard,

the future academic, speaks a sophisticated CompLitese. Karlo’s

vowels as well as his passport are Canadian; and, to my surprise,

Tero, who seems so West Coast, has a strong Minnesota accent, as

though headed home to Lake Wobegon. The conversation is slow to

get rolling, but then one of the older women complains that the

classrooms are too far from the dorms; another chimes in that the

shuttles are unreliable. Our “evaluation” swiftly turns into a gripe

session. “The food—it’s not great, and the salad bar closes too

early.” “The Kaplanuloj are too loud!” “The diboĉejo is too small.”

“The painters entered my room while I was in there!” “The field

trips…” someone says, rolling his eyes. I look at Slim; ouch. Only

Greta and Benedikt speak in Esperanto, but they say little; Kalindi is

silent. Brigadoon is dissolving before my eyes, leaving a room full of

irritated, underslept people remembering that they have planes to

catch, emails to answer, jobs to resume.

When we walk back to the dorm to pack, most of us switch into

Esperanto; it’s more … comfortable? More in keeping with this

place, this time? A way to prolong, for a few more moments,

something akin to happiness? As we walk, Wayne says, “I make a

standing offer to all my students to write to me; some do. I ask each

of them to set a goal—a goal for two weeks from now, a month

from now, for the next six months. For the coming year. If you don’t

set a goal, nothing happens.” I ask him how often he speaks

Esperanto when he’s at home. “Well, once a month when I can get

to a meeting in St. Louis—but I’m often too busy to drive down

there.”

He considers; when he resumes, his tone is confessional. “So,

basically, only with my dogs. I tell my pomerhundo”—Pomeranian

—“‘bona hundo!’ and he gets it. I call my evil ĉivavo”—chihuahua

—“‘Hundaĉo!’ and he gets it.” He shrugs, as if to dismiss the forty-

nine weeks until he is back in San Diego. “You just have to keep it

going, and you do.”

PART TWO

DOKTORO ESPERANTO AND THE

SHADOW PEOPLE

1. Jewish Questions

In a letter of 1905 to the French Esperantist Alfred Michaux,

Zamenhof wrote: “My Jewishness has been the main reason why,