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‘WOW, that’s KERRRAZY good!’ The last time I went to a medium,”

he adds soberly, “he had to shield his eyes when I came in the

room.”

I didn’t; maybe my eyes have adjusted to his aura.

“So I started reading ancient books: The Book of the Dead, the I

Ching, the Gitas; the teachments of Jesus. The REAL ones, not the

ones the church sets out for us. Like when Jesus say, ‘Drink my

blood, eat my meat,’ it’s mean that God is in all of us. AND WE ARE

IN GOD. And evil is just the absence of God. That’s all it is.”

“Augustine says the same,” I begin, but next to the Tibetan Book of

the Dead, Augustine’s a Johnny-come-lately. Paulo shrugs and

resumes: “Think about it: our souls have an amazing opportunity

here to learn. We go from universe to universe, but here on earth we

can take a GIANT LEAP forward. So I’m learning to love my enemy.

Because I want to love EVERYBODY. Think about it.”

I’m thinking: You don’t need Tibetans to learn to love everybody.

Ask Hillel. Ask Jesus. For that matter, ask Zamenhof.

“When I knew that I was sent here to put my energy into the

ground to feed these children, then I ACT. I come to Ursula and

Giuseppe and they say, ‘Here’s ten hectares, see what you can do.’

So I left a great house in Goiana—and a girlfriend who was a model!

—to come here and plant. I put my energy into the plants and

sometimes they stay quiet, shhhhh, a month, a year, two years, and

then—WHOOMP!—POW!—they come up KERRAZY big.” It’s like

talking to a comic book hero, Plantman.

“And I don’t get paid; no, I pay Ramón out of my own pocket. If I

leave, I leave everything. But who would?” He seems to have in

mind his life with Carla and Nestor, with the ten boys for whom he

provides a father’s lore—how to swim, how to fish, how to make a

bow and arrow from bamboo. A father’s love.

But no, he’s talking about another dimension entirely. “It’s just

full of souls here, FULL OF SOULS. Even Kubitschek felt it, homing

in on this place from his helicopter.” In the late 1950s, President

Juscelino Kubitschek made good on his motto, “Fifty years of

progress in five,” by founding the new capital, Brasília. Rumor has it

that Kubitschek’s helipad, during his forays into Goiás, was on the

grounds of Bona Espero. “Think about it,” says Paulo.

He leans in and locks my gaze; the moral of the story is at hand.

“We are all living in someone’s dream.”

* * *

Late in the afternoon, when the heat of the day has passed, Paulo

and I kneel on opposite sides of a platform full of palm seedlings,

transplanting the successes and weeding out the failures. He’s been

talking about his various careers—interior design, cooking,

patrolling for avalanche victims with a GPS (“beep, beep,

beepeepeepeep”), and I ask how he started farming. The question

seems to amuse him. “I knew nothing about farming; I just figured it

out, like: why isn’t this working?” his rubbery face assumes a

befuddled expression. “AHH, I’ll try this. And this?” He taps his bald

pate twice. “AHH, I’ll try that.”

He begins to rattle off stats: the vegetable field is seventy by

eighty meters. He’s installed over three kilometers of irrigation

pipes. On four hectares, he’s planted five hundred-odd fruit trees;

around the rest of the property, more than two hundred non-fruit

trees. The water tank, filled by water pumped up from the lake,

holds ten thousand liters. Last year the garden yielded one ton of

tomatoes. Lately, he’s grown a dense pasture of mombasa grass,

with four distinct quadrants.

He walks me through a large shed he’s just built for raising

seedlings and storing tractors. It’s the kind of shed Nero might have

built for his seedlings and tractors; aureate, capacious. He’s painted

it classic Brazilian colors—sky-blue and ochre—and put in a

bathroom “so the gardeners don’t have to pee in the fields.” Of late,

from the bend in the highway, it’s the most prominent building you

see. Paulo calls it a “laboratory.” Ursula calls it “Paulo’s palazzo.”

Bona Espero runs on two different calendars: Ursula’s and

Paulo’s. The Ursuline calendar refers to epochal events of the past

forty years: “the-time-of-the flood”; “the-time-of-the-fire”; “the-time-

the-board-of-the-UEA-came-to-Bona-Espero.” The Pauline calendar

refers to the future: “when-we’ll-be-raising-horses”; “when-we’ll-be-

using-wind-power”; “when-we’ll-be-farming-fish.” Paulo points to a

jagged gash in the chicken wire. “You see that? That’s where the

cascavel—how do you say, rattlesnake?—poked out his head, but we

were READY for him.” He picks up what looks like a blind person’s

white stick; at one end is a red plastic loop which, when he tugs the

other end, tightens like a noose. “I got him, Ramón cut the wire, and

then I took the snake out to the fields.” No animals were harmed in

the making of this utopia.

Suddenly, abruptly, Plantman’s face darkens, his brow furrowed.

“It’s just a matter of time before people wake up. You’ve seen what’s

happening: tsunamis, earthquakes, hurricanes. When the energy

comes, the first thing it does is to shift the plates. BAM. And you see

what’s going on in the economy, don’t you? Watch CNN: This

morning the Dow fell 3 percent, and that’s just this morning. A

matter of time before EVERYONE FINALLY SEES … and they’ll all

start coming. Here. To Goiás.”

He squares his shoulders and faces me. “It’s all depend on your

faith. You have to be prepared for the energy. Do you have FAITH?

Are you PREPARED? Are you ready to leave behind the world of

lies?”

I’m not likely to receive the energy, but am I ready to leave

behind the world of lies? “I’ve just left my marriage of thirty years,”

I say. “If I’m not ready now, I’ll never be.”

This evening, after walking two miles down the red dirt road, I

wave my little clamshell phone high overhead, fishing for texts.

Suddenly my phone buzzes, and buzzes again and again. It seems so

uncanny, finding messages in the ether. Maybe Paulo’s right: We are

al living in someone else’s dream.

8. Sebastian’s Mantras

It’s not easy making a living as an Esperanto rocker, in Buenos Aires

or anywhere. To pick up some income, Sebastian’s been working in

an amusement park as a Hannibal Lecter impersonator. Hard to

think of anyone caging up that boyish, chiseled face, like wasting

ozone. When the owner shut down the park in Buenos Aires,

Sebastian decamped to the Canary Islands for a few months, where

he wrote a novel and some short stories.

“Were they good?” I ask. “Did you like them?”

“Like them? I love them, I think I am a genius. But the publishers

did not agree.”

The upper-middle-class son of a doctor and a homemaker,

Sebastian was educated in a bilingual English-Spanish school in

Buenos Aires: it was cosmopolitan, well-appointed, “lots of Jewish

kids.” He speaks Esperanto whip fast, with the raw, gutted rs of