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China's Three Gorges, Xi'an & the Terracotta Warriors

Simon Foster

Hunter Publishing, Inc.

HUNTER PUBLISHING, INC.

30 Mayfield Ave

Edison, NJ 08818-7816

tel. 800-255-0343 / fax 732-417-1744

www.hunterpublishing.com

E-mail comments@hunterpublishing.com

IN CANADA:

Ulysses Travel Publications

4176 Saint-Denis, Montréal, Québec

Canada H2W 2M5

tel. 514-843-9882 ext. 2232 / fax 514-843-9448

IN THE UNITED KINGDOM:

Windsor Books International

5, Castle End Park, Castle End Rd, Ruscombe

Berkshire, RG10 9XQ England

tel. 01189-346-367 / fax 01189-346-368

© 2010 Hunter Publishing, Inc.

This and other Hunter travel guides are also available as e-books

in a variety of digital formats through our online partners, including

eBooks.com, Overdrive.com, Ebrary.com and NetLibrary.com.

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the written permission of the publisher. Brief excerpts for review or promotional purposes are permitted.

This guide focuses on recreational activities. As all such activities contain elements of risk, the publisher, author, affiliated individuals and companies disclaim any responsibility for any injury, harm, or illness that may occur to anyone through, or by use of, the information in this book. Every effort was made to insure the accuracy of information in this book, but the publisher and author do not assume, and hereby disclaim, any liability for loss or damage caused by errors, omissions, misleading information or potential travel problems caused by this guide, even if such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or any other cause.

Cover photograph:  Great Wall (© Tom Till/Alamy)

All photos by Simon Foster, unless otherwise indicated. Special thanks

to Tot Foster, Ewen Bell (www.ewenbell.com), Magalie L'Abbé and Galen Frysinger (www.galenfrysinger.com) for their photographs.

A Changing China

As is always the case with the information in guidebooks, things change. Hotels close down (or just get run down), great new restaurants pop up and bars, clubs and Internet cafés come and go with the wind. In a country changing as fast as China this is even more so, and new roads, hotels and even cities, seem to appear overnight. All of the information in this book was carefully researched and correct at time of going to press. If there's anything you come across in your travels that has closed or gone downhill, or any great new offerings or adventures that you think should be in the book, please contact the publishers at comments@hunterpublishing.com.

About the Author

Simon Foster was born in England. Family trips first kindled his interest in places other than his own and after graduating in geography he set off to seek what he'd been studying. Following his first extended trip, wanderlust firmly set in and Simon became an adventure tour leader in the Middle East and Asia. He soon started travel writing and has contributed to the Rough Guide's Australia, China, Egypt, Europe, India and Tunisia books. Simon has spent most of the past ten years overseas, principally in China and sunny southern Taiwan. When he's not working, Simon enjoys, you guessed it, travel, whether to the Philippines or just back home to Yorkshire.

the Rough Guide's Australia, China, Egypt, Europe, India and Tunisia books. Simon has spent most of the past ten years overseas, principally in China and sunny southern Taiwan. When he's not leading tours or writing, Simon enjoys, you guessed it, travel, whether to the Philippines or just back home to Yorkshire.

Dedication

I'd like to dedicate this book to my grandfather, Maurice, who traveled the globe with the merchant navy and always followed my world wanderings on his atlas at home in Newcastle in England. May he rest in peace.

Thanks

Friends, old and new, from around the globe, have played their part in this book, and I want to say a great big thank you for all the time, effort, tips and tales. Firstly, thanks to my wife, Tot, without whom I would've surely given up several times along the way. Tot assisted with research, writing and by taking many of the book's photos. I'd also like to say a big thank you to photographer Ewen Bell (www.ewenbell.com) who was kind enough to let us use his incredible images. Next, my best mate Craig, who read through material in record time and threw in the odd amusing comment to spur me on.

As always, my family has supported me and contributed their own skills - my dad helped to manage the project as a whole, my mum (the librarian) helped with the booklist and my sister and Monty resolved computer problems as I created them! My Uncle Mick is an ornithologist and helped on the Flora and Fauna section and Jadranka, an author herself, and my Uncle Jon proffered helpful advice.

In China: xie xie to Ben, Leo, Nick and Su-San in Beijing, Fox in Xi'an, Lu in Shandong, John Zhang in Chongqing, Steven Huang in Tunxi, Mr. Hu in Tangkou and Pete, Selina and Chris Winnan in Guangzhou. To my friends in Guangxi who helped re-initiate me to the new Yangshuo - Alf, Bill, Chris Barclay, Dee, Echo, Forest, Ian Ford and Ian Hamilton, Jessie, Malcolm, Naomi, William, Sam, Shelly, Xu Chen Zuo and the China Climb team. A bigger thank you still must go to William and Linda Lu who nourished me well with food and information. And an enormous thank you goes to Rose Mo who assisted with the language section. In Hong Kong: Sarah Clark and Paul Etherington. In Europe: thank you very much indeed to Adi Vimal, Dara-Lynne, Henrik Rasmussen and his family, Jane and Eric and Terry and Jensia. Last, but by no means least, thanks to Michael and the team at Hunter Publishing, for letting this book happen and for breaking up my unruly sentences!

Introduction

History

Prehistory

The Dynastic Age

The Revolutionary Years

The PRC Under Chairman Mao

The Reform Era (1976-present)

The Future

Geography

Flora & Fauna

Wildlife

Population

People

Religion & Philosophy

Beliefs & Superstitions

Culture

Architecture

Bronzes

Ceramics

Jade & Lacquer

Painting

Calligraphy

Literature

Poetry

Music

Acrobatics

Martial Arts

Film

Traditional Chinese Medicine

Travel & Living Information

Planning Your Trip

When to Go

Holidays & Festivals

Organized Tours

Visas

Insurance

What to Pack

Information Sources

Maps

Customs & Immigration

Getting Here & Away

Getting Around

Practicalities

Money Matters

Keeping in Touch

Media

Health

Restrooms

Safety

Facts & Figures

Accommodation

Food & Drink

Price Codes

The Four Major Styles

Where to Eat

Entertainment & Nightlife

Shopping

Adventures

Eco-Travel

The Top 25

Suggested Itineraries

The Imperial North

Cruise the Three Gorges

Shanghai, Silk & Tea

Big City Lights & Rural Delights

Xi'an

History

Getting Here & Away

Getting Around

Orientation