Buying a Ticket
In smaller towns and cities there may only be one bus station but in larger urban areas there can often be several, which serve different regions, as well as express stations in the center. For short hops you can generally just show up and get on the next bus, but for longer journeys it's worth buying your ticket in advance or arriving in the morning as buses are less frequent in the afternoons, and often finish at sundown during winter, unless there are sleeper services. Once you're at the station you may be faced with a daunting number of ticket windows but staff are generally helpful.
Car Rental
Forbidden until recently, car rental options are still limited in China unless you're a resident with a Z visa (and a valid license from your home country), in which case you can obtain the Chinese license necessary to drive here. Otherwise, your options are restricted to hiring a car with driver, which can be arranged through major international chains such as Avis (www.avischina.com) and Hertz (www.hertz.com.cn) or local companies – rates start from around US$40 a day.
Hong Kong and Macau are exceptions to the rule and you can easily rent a self-drive car in either – exploring Macau's coastal roads in the Cub and Moke jeeps they offer is great fun. If you live on the mainland and choose to drive, it soon becomes apparent that the rules of the road revolve around size – the bigger the vehicle the more you need to avoid it. Outside of the cities you need to pay particular attention at night as many drivers seem oblivious to the fact their cars have lights!
By Boat
Rivers and canals used to be one of the primary transport means for both people and freight in China, but these days they have been replaced by road, rail and air. Conversely, for visitors, river travel still offers one of the best ways to see idyllic rural China, with some of the country's most spectacular scenery as a backdrop. Of particular note are the Three Gorges, Guangxi's Li River and the Grand Canal. While you can organize most cruises while you're in China, if you want to guarantee a quality boat to cruise the Three Gorges it's worth booking from home – see the websites listed under Booking from Overseas. There are also ferries between Hong Kong and Macau and to Pearl River Delta destinations.
City Travel
Subway
These days many of China's major cities, including Hong Kong, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Shanghai and Beijing, have subway systems which are sometimes known as MTRs (Mass Transit Railways) and these offer a convenient, easy and inexpensive way to get around these cities. You usually buy tickets ($2-10) from machines, which have English instructions, and stations are marked (and sometimes announced) in English. Closest subway stations are given where appropriate throughout the book.
Bus
Every Chinese city has a cheap and extensive bus network and this often forms the backbone of the urban transport system. However, the fact that destinations are generally only marked in Chinese, and that buses can be very crowded and often aren't air-conditioned makes the subway preferable where it's an option. You normally pay ($1-2) onboard and often need to have exact change. Show the driver your destination written in Chinese and, if you're lucky, he or she will give you the nod when it's time to get off. Bus numbers are given where appropriate throughout the book.
Taxi
Taxis are the easiest way to get around China's cities. Although drivers seldom speak English, as long as you have your destination written in Chinese (see the language boxes) you won't go too far wrong. Flagfall rates vary from $4 to $12.5 for the first two km (1.2 miles) and then rise in increments beyond this. Make sure that the driver uses the meter ("da biao”). In some cities you'll also find motorcycle taxis, which are a speedy way to get through the clogged city streets but it can be difficult to get a fair price – see individual chapter listings for details.
Cycle Rickshaw
China still has cycle rickshaws and pedicabs, although in some of its cities these are exclusively the preserve of tourists and you need to bargain hard before you set out on your journey. If you're in a hurry they are hardly ideal, but to soak up the pace of the city they can make a fun change. See individual cities for approximate rates.
Bicycle
Although being rapidly superseded by scooters and cars, the bicycle is the traditional mode of transport in China. In spite of modernization, China has over half a billion cycles – by far the highest ownership in the world. Although cycling around the big cities can initially seem a little daunting, there are often designated cycle lanes and, as long as you move with the masses, you'll be fine. Bikes can be rented in most cities and offer an excellent way to get around, particularly in Hangzhou, Suzhou and the countryside. Rates vary from as little as $5 for a day, to $50 an hour from some upmarket hotels.
Ferry
The cities are also often best seen from the water – Hong Kong, Shanghai, Hangzhou and Suzhou are testaments to this. Although seldom very practical (with the exception of Hong Kong's Star Ferry), ferries present a different side of the city and, if you're short of funds, they can offer a cheap alternative to a river or harbor cruise.
Practicalities
Money Matters
The Currency
The currency of China is the yuan ($), also known as the kwai or renminbi (RMB), which literally translates as "people's money.” At the time of writing there were $8to the US dollar, $10 to the Euro and $16 to the British Pound Sterling. Paper money was introduced to the world by China in 806 AD and today bank notes come in various amounts, many of which show a portrait of the omnipresent Chairman Mao on the front and famous landscapes from around the country on the back. Denominations are $100 (red), $50 (green), $20 (brown), $10 (blue), $5 (purple or brown), $2 (green) and $1 (green or brown), along with the almost worthless 5, 2 and 1 mao notes (10 mao, also referred to as jiao = $1). The $2 and 2 mao notes are both green and look very similar – remember the lower value one is the smaller of the two. Counterfeiting is rife in China and even the smallest local store may have a UV scanner. While $10 notes are often copied, the one to watch out for is the $100 (see Warning – Scams). The quality of fakes is often high, but generally you can tell by the feel of the money, which is often a little too crunchy to the touch. In Hong Kong the currency is the Hong Kong dollar (HK$) and at the time of writing there were HK$8 to the US$, HK$10 to the Euro and HK$15 to the British Pound Sterling. In Macau the pataca, or Macau dollar (MOP$) is roughly equivalent to the HK$, which can be used throughout the territory.
Banks & Foreign Exchange
The Bank of China (not the Agricultural Bank of China, Construction Bank of China, Industrial Bank of China or any of the other similarly named institutions) is the only bank licensed to exchange foreign currency or travelers' checks. Their opening hours may vary but are generally Monday to Friday from 9 am-noon and 2-5 pm. Upscale hotels can also change money, although their rates tend to be a little worse.