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To dial internationally, you'll need to tap in the correct country code (see below) and drop the first zero of the regional code. Within China, for local calls you dial the number without the code (unless calling from a cell phone), only adding the code if you're calling from another city. In Hong Kong and Macau, local calls are free from hotel phones.

International Dialing Codes

Australia – 00 61

Canada – 00 1

China – 00 86

Hong Kong – 00 852

Macau – 00 853

New Zealand – 00 64

UK – 00 44

US – 00 1

E-Mail

The Internet is very popular in China and all towns and cities have Internet cafés (many of which are 24-hr) where you can check your e-mail account, although speeds, standards and rates vary considerably. Recently there have been stricter controls on Internet cafés after a fatal fire in June 2002, although some argue that this was just an excuse to introduce stronger web filtering and thus restrict access to sensitive websites (see Media, Internet, below). Along with firewalls, you currently also have to register your passport to use the Internet in some cities such as Shanghai. In the cheapest cafés ($2) connection may not be that good and you're likely to find yourself surrounded by swarms of adolescent online gamers. Better cafés charge a little more ($5 upwards) and can offer quieter and sometimes quicker access. Many hostels and backpacker cafés also have a few computers for Internet use, and some even have wireless connection if you've brought a laptop. Big hotel business centers are pricier ($20 an hour upwards) but should offer the same speeds and services as their counterparts in other countries. These days many mid-range hotels have Internet connection and maybe even wireless in their guest rooms – look for the @ symbol in the hotel listings in this guide.

Media

The media in China is censored in all its forms, and editors may face jail time if they communicate unauthorized material. The state-run news agency, Xinhua (www.xinhuanet.com/english/), is the principal source of information and their choices about which stories to report and how to do so can be insightful. Hong Kong is a different story, with a wide variety of uncensored media.

Newspapers & Magazines

China's main English language newspaper, the ChinaDaily(www.chinadaily.com.cn/english), offers news reflecting the way the government would like foreigners to view China, along with a handy listings section, and it's available at bigger hotels throughout the country. The main Chinese language national is the People's Daily which is available in English online at www.english.people.com. There are also local English Language newspapers, such as the Shanghai Daily, which predominantly cover city and national news, but also give international round-ups. Magazines are principally Chinese-language and those that are in English are, as ever, heavily censored, but often contain interesting articles nonetheless – try China Today, which was established by Soong Qingling, wife of Dr. Sun Yatsen. In large cities you can find imported, unadulterated international magazines such as National Geographic, Newsweek and Time. Larger cities also have ex-pat-oriented magazines like City Weekend, which contain reviews, entertainment listings and stories that don't always toe the party line. You can find these magazines in bigger hotels and bars, restaurants and cafés popular with ex-pats, although some are available on the Internet – that's magazines (www.thatsmags.com) is one website to look for, with Beijing, Shanghai and Pearl River Delta editions.

Internet

In spite of the mammoth task it appears to be, the Chinese authorities are committed to controlling Internet use and thus they restrict access to certain websites, predominantly political or religious. But even Google was temporarily blocked in 2002and has recently agreed to remove websites that feature sensitive issues from its search results. On my most recent trip, www.wikipedia.com was inaccessible and in Shenzhen icons of police officers come up on screen when you enter a website or chatroom. Incoming digital documents are also monitored through a nationwide firewall that scans for combinations of suspect words. Thus, in terms of real news, the Internet can be a disappointing medium, but it offers insight on how the country operates, and it's worth trying to find what you want, since access levels vary.

Radio

On the radio you'll mostly hear a mix of Canto-pop and Mando-pop (see Music), opera, Taiwanese tracks and Western covers but, beyond music, unless you can understand Chinese, your options will be fairly limited. Some of the bigger cities have English-language stations such as Hit FM (77.7FM) and Easy FM (91.5FM), but otherwise it's a case of searching out the BBC World Service or Voice of America (see www.bbc.co.uk/worldservice and www.voanews.com for frequencies and schedules).

Television

A flick through China's TV channels can be an interesting experience, encompassing Beijing Opera, old war movies, ridiculous gameshows, costume dramas and authorized news. However, for English-language programs, unless you're staying in an upscale hotel, which might have CNN and international movie and sports networks, you'll need to check out CCTV9. This state-run English channel offers culture, news, sports and travel, all of it "approved,” although it can be informative nonetheless. You may even see Canadian Mark Rowswell (aka Dashan, meaning Big Mountain), arguably China's most famous foreigner, who has become a household name thanks to his flawless Mandarin, and still appears on CCTV educational shows. CCTV6 sometimes shows Western movies in English at around 10 pm. In Hong Kong, Pearl TV is the English-language channel and, as with most things in Hong Kong, it is far freer in its programming, with regular Hollywood movies and hit series such as Sex and the City and The West Wing.

Health

If you come to China for any length of time there is a chance you could get sick, and indeed, in winter, half the populace seems to be ill, but a few preparatory steps should help minimize any impact on your trip.

Minor Illnesses

Most people's fear is of stomach illness and in many countries around the world a change in cooking ingredients, oil and water can cause "Delhi belly,” "Montezuma's revenge,” "the Pharaoh's curse,” or whatever you want to call it. However, this is far less common in China, where fresh ingredients are cooked very quickly, at high temperatures. You can further reduce your chances of sickness by a few basic hygiene measures – wash your hands often, keep your nails clean and try not to share eating utensils. Water is another area to watch – drink only boiled or mineral water and brush your teeth with it as well. If you're going well off the beaten track it's worth taking water purification tablets along with you. In spite of precautions you could still end up with an upset stomach. If so, as long as it's nothing too serious, rest, plenty of water and rehydration salts generally resolve the problem. Try not to take diarrhea stoppers unless you have to travel, as they can make the problem linger. If you have longer-lasting symptoms, or blood or mucus in your stool, see a doctor.