A more alarming but less common scam is being offered some food or drink on a long-distance bus or train journey by someone you've been chatting with for a while. Later you wake up with a groggy head and no valuables. However, I must temper this tale with the fact that I've been traveling around China on public transport for years and have never fallen victim to this scam, or met anyone first-hand who has. There is a balance to be struck between caution and closing yourself off from the predominantly good and honest people of this land.
Emergency Services & the Public Security Bureau
If you need emergency assistance, the following numbers are applicable throughout the mainland: Police (tel.110); Fire (tel.119); Ambulance (tel.120) – see Emergency & Medical Services for the relevant numbers in Hong Kong and Macau. Although there should be an English speaker available at these numbers, try to have a Chinese speaker make the call. The police have far more extensive powers than their contemporaries in the West and while individual officers may be helpful to foreigners, it's probably best not to cross their path unless you have to, which you will if you have something stolen and need a police report – ask for the jing cha (police). The Public Security Bureau (PSB) deals with issues relating to visas (see Extending your Visa) but can also be contacted in emergencies – see individual chapters for PSB locations and telephone numbers.
Begging
While beggars are not as prevalent in China as in some other Asian or South American countries, as more and more rural Chinese flood to the cities, it is an increasingly serious problem. It's worth working out what your feelings are and how you will respond in advance as this will make situations easier to deal with. You may feel that begging begets begging and thus choose not to give anything to anyone, thereby hopefully instilling the concept that foreigners are not endless bags of money, and making the journey easier for those who come after you. Or you might choose to give food or pens rather than money, although this still ultimately leads to a form of dependency. As a tour leader, I once visited a small village that had probably never seen another foreigner. The people were a little bewildered initially but soon warmed up to be friendly and hospitable. As we were leaving, a member of my group gave a few bananas to the local kids, a seemingly innocuous gesture. On my return to this village a few months later with a different group we were immediately besieged by children demanding bananas!
If you want to be left alone, giving may seem like the easy option, but in some cases this may actually end up attracting more beggars to pounce on the "soft target.” And if you do give, the big question is then, to whom do you give? The cute little girl who tugs relentlessly at your leg or the old man passed out on the sidewalk – often those who are the most needy are also the least likely to benefit. And this is to say nothing of organized begging syndicates that sometimes put children out on the streets to work in order to generate sympathy and thus revenue. So, heart-rending as it is, the simplest solution may actually be not to give to anyone, instead making a charitable donation of time or money.
Charitable Organizations
China is the most populous country in the world and, while there are plenty of people who seem to be getting rich in the cities, there are an awful lot more who struggle to feed themselves. Access to clean water, healthcare, education and legal representation is far from universal and what is a small amount of money to you can make a big difference to those in need. There are worthwhile organizations mentioned in the individual city accounts (look for the Putting Something Back callouts), and the following registered charities can also provide information about other projects and will gladly accept donations.
www.actionaid.org/china
www.chineseredcross.org.cn/English
www.christian-aid.org.uk/world/where/asia/chinap
www.oxfam.org.hk
Photography
The old adage, take only photographs, leave only footprints, is a good one. This said, you should only take pictures of people who are happy to have their photo taken and also be aware that it's forbidden to take photographs at certain sites deemed of military importance (airports, bridges), and at some tourist locales like the Terracotta Warriors (although this rule is flagrantly ignored by many visitors). In popular tourist areas you may be asked to pay to take people's pictures – it's up to you whether you decide to do this, but bear in mind that, if you do, travelers who follow in your footsteps will certainly have to pay. The best way to get pictures of locals, though, is to strike up a conversation (or some kind of interaction) and offer to send them a copy of their picture. Make sure you fulfill your promise. For pictures of people, often you'll get the best picture by taking (or pretending to take) the posed photograph, then snapping another immediately afterwards, when the person has assumed a more natural posture or expression. While it's not always possible to coordinate your visit with the perfect time to take pictures, it's worth noting that early morning and late afternoon tend to offer the best light conditions. Mornings are also the time to catch the best street life, and many markets are at their busiest before the heat of day arrives.
When your camera memory stick is full you can take it to a photo developing shop and they'll put the images onto a CD (or print them) for you. For those who haven't joined the digital revolution, camera film is readily available and cheaper in China than at home. It's worth stocking up in reputable stores though, as stalls outside tourist sites are more expensive and the film may have suffered from sunlight exposure. Regardless of where you buy your film, you should always check the expiration date. There are also plenty of places, including Kodak stores, to get your pictures developed, but if you plan to have a lot of pictures processed, try one as a sample before committing yourself to rolls of washed-out photos. If you're a keen photographer and want taking pictures to be a major part of your trip then it's worth considering a photographic tour. Grasshopper (www.grasshopper adventures.com) runs excellent trips accompanied by Ewen Bell, an acclaimed photographer whose pictures are found in this book.
Etiquette
China's long history, so removed from Western civilization has left a minefield of different social customs that can initially be baffling to foreign visitors. Fortunately, the Chinese see foreigners as very different from themselves and in most situations cultural faux pas will be ignored. However, that isn't to say you shouldn't try to conform when in China – if you do your actions will be both noticed and appreciated.
saving Face
While the Chinese often find Western self-flattery unseemly, they are inherently a proud people and one of the driving forces in Chinese etiquette is the concept of "face,” which can be likened to dignity. Activities such as arguing in public will result in loss of face for both parties and thus are to be avoided at all costs. Nevertheless, in a country where private space is limited and summers are swelteringly hot, tempers can fray and you may well come across furious screaming matches out on the street – once they've started it's the one that can hold on the longest who will save most face. Face can also mean that a request or opinion (especially from a more senior employee or elder) won't be challenged, because it will cause loss of face. Thus contentious issues are often avoided or, when they are brought up, the "right” responses are given no matter what the party concerned actually intends to do.