Shopping Malls & Department Stores
New shopping malls are springing up all the time in China's city centers and weekends see the urban elites out furiously flexing their credit cards. These giants hold designer label outlets, bookstores, electronics and music stores and they often have food courts and good supermarkets in their basements. Department stores can be a different story, especially in smaller towns, where they tend to be full of staff sitting behind glass cabinets waiting for the next victim who will have to endure reams of paperwork for the smallest of purchases. In spite of attempts to modernize, most branches of the Friendship Store remain similarly fusty, but it's China's most established department store (previously a foreigners' only emporium) and has quality items from all over the country, which can be a good (above average) price guide.
Everyday Needs
It used to be difficult to get everyday items such as toiletries and milk in China, but these days most products you'll need are easily available in the big cities. Foreign supermarkets such as Wal-Mart and Carrefour have established themselves and provide an interesting mix of imported and local products. For toiletries, head to Watson's, which can be found in Beijing, Xi'an, Shanghai, Hong Kong and Macau.
The Art of Bargaining
The Chinese are renowned for their tactical bargaining ability and are likely to mark up prices at the sight of a foreigner. Indeed, until recently, China had a dual pricing structure and the overcharging of foreigners was official policy. However, these days, while it will be difficult for you to get "local price,” you can certainly aim to knock at least a third off the asking price and often much more. For cheaper purchases, amounts are negligible when converted to dollars, euros or pounds, but for bigger items a little strategy can help you to get a fair price.
First, check out a few places (ideally including a fixed-price shop) before trying to bargain anywhere.
Second, don't start bargaining unless you definitely want the item in question.
Third, have a fixed price in your head that you won't go above and ideally a back-up similar item (the one you want often suddenly becomes "unique” and hence more expensive).
Fourth, if you're not getting near your price and the vendor stops going lower, try the slow walk out – half the time you'll be called back and get your price, or negotiations can recommence.
Finally, remember that while the difference between your price and the vendor's may be minimal, chances are this amount will mean more to the vendor than you and, if you see something you like, you might regret not buying for the sake of a few dollars! Conversely, don't feel guilty if the vendor acts hurt – no matter what they say they won't sell if they aren't making money.
Finger Counting
Illiteracy and the presence of numerous mutually unintelligible local dialects has led to the development of an easy system of finger counting in China. Memorize the hand signals below (from left to right, they represent the numbers one to 10) and you're all set for a hard day of bargaining at the markets.
Adventures
Conventionally, you may think of adventures as being outdoor or physical activities, but travel is all about exploration, and in this book the aim is to allow you to experience the manifold facets of this vast, diverse country. Thus, an adventure could be a hike or a bike ride, but it might also be learning to cook Chinese food or studying the ancient art of calligraphy. For each area covered you will find an "Adventures” section, sub-divided into the different forms of adventure for that region, such as "On Water,” "On Wheels” and "Cultural Adventures.” Accounts include contact details (where required), approximate costs and durations, what to expect and routes for bike rides and walks. Durations indicate the length of time walking or cycling and do not account for how long you spend at any sights en route. For physical, outdoor adventures like climbing or kayaking, be sure to check that your insurance policy is adequate. For cultural adventures you'll find background information in the Culture section of the book. If you're interested in one specific style of adventure and want your holiday to focus on that, then it might be worth booking a specialized tour (see Specialized Tours).
Eco-Travel
Tourism is set to be the world's biggest industry, but all too often it involves destruction of both the physical and social environment. When we seek out new and unexplored locales around the globe, we are, of course, irrevocably changing that place, all the more so by telling tales of unspoiled beauty on our return. In my work as a travel writer and tour leader I feel more at fault than most. The truth is that sooner or later all the "untouched” destinations will be gone, but what we can do is make the "touch” a light one. Eco-tourism is really about responsible tourism; minimizing negative impacts on the physical environment and indigenous cultures while maximizing the positive contributions travelers can make. China doesn't yet have much in the way of eco-tourism, but you can do your bit nonetheless. Below are a few pointers (most of which are purely common sense) that will help you do the right thing.
Try to use local, ecologically aware companies or individuals who care about the place in which they live. All too often the proceeds from tourism find their way to big travel agents who have little (if any) concern for eco-travel, so using locals will help to conserve the status quo, as well as supporting the regional economy.
Get involved in local projects, either with direct input during your trip or financially on your return (see Animal Protection Organizations, Charitable Organizations, Conservation Organizations, and the Putting Something Back sections in the destination chapters).
Help to preserve local crafts by buying direct from the craftsmen.
Never purchase any products made from endangered species, no matter what the vendor may tell you.
Never leave litter – aim to leave a place cleaner than you found it.
Recycle wherever possible.
Try to get around under your own steam – only use fuel-guzzling transport when necessary. Offset your carbon miles at www.climatecare.com.
Keep to marked trails when cycling or hiking.
Conserve water – don't leave the tap running and only get hotel linen washed when really needed.
Don't use soap or detergents in natural bodies of water.
The Top 25
Below is a list of my 25 favorite places and pastimes in the areas covered by this book. While by no means definitive, if you manage to see and do all that follows, you'll get a real flavor for what this giant land has to offer – contrast and diversity.
Beijing – Imagine China of old at the imperial trio of sights: the Forbidden City, the Temple of Heaven and the Summer Palace. Eat Beijing duck in Beijing. Walk the Great Wall from Jinshanling to Simatai.