*
A stout intense lawyer in his early thirties of immense extrovert charm — with him it was definitely the 1980s, not the 1960s. His father was a judge. He himself was intelligent, articulate and fiercely representative of the other ‘new spirit’ of Pakistan. He didn’t drink, smoke or fuck. Out of choice. He prayed five times a day. He worked all the time. He was determined to be a good Muslim, since that was the whole point of the country existing at all. He wasn’t indulgent, except religiously, and he lived in accordance with what he believed. I took to him immediately.
We had dinner in an expensive restaurant. It could have been in London or New York. The food was excellent, I said. The lawyer disagreed, with his mouth full, shaking his great head. It was definitely no good, it was definitely meretricious rubbish. But for ideological reasons only, I concluded, since he ate with relish. He was only in the restaurant because of me, he said.
There was better food in the villages; the new food in Pakistan was, frankly, a tribute to chemistry rather than cuisine. Only the masses had virtue, they knew how to live, how to eat. He told me that those desiccated others, the marginal men I associated with and liked so much, were a plague class with no values. Perhaps, he suggested, eating massively, this was why I liked them, being English. Their education, their intellectual snobbery, made them un-Islamic. They didn’t understand the masses and they spoke in English to cut themselves off from the people. Didn’t the best jobs go to those with a foreign education? He was tired of those westernised elders denigrating their country and its religious nature. They’d been contaminated by the West, they didn’t know their own country, and the sooner they got out and were beaten up by racists abroad the better.
The lawyer and I went out into the street. It was busy, the streets full of strolling people. There were dancing camels and a Pakistan trade exhibition. The lawyer strode through it all, yelling. The exhibition was full of Pakistan-made imitations of Western goods: bathrooms in chocolate and strawberry, TVs with stereos attached; fans, air-conditioners, heaters; and an arcade full of space-invaders. The lawyer got agitated.
These were Western things, of no use to the masses. The masses didn’t have water, what would they do with strawberry bathrooms? The masses wanted Islam, not space-invaders or … or elections. Are elections a Western thing? I asked. Don’t they have them in India too? No, they’re a Western thing, the lawyer said. How could they be required under Islam? There need only be one party — the party of the righteous.
This energetic lawyer would have pleased and then disappointed Third World intellectuals and revolutionaries from an earlier era, people like Fanon and Guevara. This talk of liberation — at last the acknowledgement of the virtue of the toiling masses, the struggle against neo-colonialism, its bourgeois stooges, and American interference — the entire recognisable rhetoric of freedom and struggle, ends in the lawyer’s mind with the country on its knees, at prayer. Having started to look for itself it finds itself … in the eighth century.
Islam and the masses. My numerous meetings with scholars, revisionists, liberals who wanted the Koran ‘creatively’ interpreted to make it compatible with modern science. The many medieval monologues of mullahs I’d listened to. So much talk, theory and Byzantine analysis.
I strode into a room in my uncle’s house. Half-hidden by a curtain, on a verandah, was an aged woman servant wearing my cousin’s old clothes, praying. I stopped and watched her. In the morning as I lay in bed, she swept the floor of my room with some twigs bound together. She was at least sixty. Now, on the shabby prayer mat, she was tiny and around her the universe was endless, immense, but God was above her. I felt she was acknowledging that which was larger than her, humbling herself before the infinite, knowing and feeling her own insignificance. It was a truthful moment, not empty ritual. I wished I could do it.
I went with the lawyer to the Mosque in Lahore, the largest in the world. I took off my shoes, padded across the immense courtyard with the other men — women were not allowed — and got on my knees. I banged my forehead on the marble floor. Beside me a man in a similar posture gave a world-consuming yawn. I waited but could not lose myself in prayer. I could only travesty the woman’s prayer, to whom it had a world of meaning.
Perhaps she did want a society in which her particular moral and religious beliefs were mirrored, and no others, instead of some plural, liberal mélange; a society in which her own cast of mind, her customs, way of life and obedience to God were established with full legal and constituted authority. But it wasn’t as if anyone had asked her.
*
In Pakistan, England just wouldn’t go away. Despite the Lahore lawyer, despite everything, England was very much on the minds of Pakistanis. Relics of the Raj were everywhere: buildings, monuments, Oxford accents, libraries full of English books, and newspapers. Many Pakistanis had relatives in England; thousands of Pakistani families depended on money sent from England. Visiting a village, a man told me through an interpreter that when his three grandchildren visited from Bradford, he had to hire an interpreter to speak to them. It was happening all the time — the closeness of the two societies, and the distance.
Although Pakistanis still wanted to escape to England, the old men in their clubs and the young eating their hamburgers took great pleasure in England’s decline and decay. The great master was fallen. Now it was seen as strikebound, drug-ridden, riot-torn, inefficient, disunited, a society which had moved too suddenly from puritanism to hedonism and now loathed itself. And the Karachi wits liked to ask me when I thought the Americans would decide the British were ready for self-government.
Yet people like Rahman still clung to what they called British ideals, maintaining that it is a society’s ideals, its conception of human progress, that define the level of its civilisation. They regretted, under the Islamisation, the repudiation of the values which they said were the only positive aspect of Britain’s legacy to the subcontinent. These were: the idea of secular institutions based on reason, not revelation or scripture; the idea that there were no final solutions to human problems; and the idea that the health and vigour of a society was bound up with its ability to tolerate and express a plurality of views on all issues, and that these views would be welcomed.
But England as it is today, the ubiquity of racism and the suffering of Pakistanis because of it, was another, stranger subject. When I talked about it, the response was unexpected. Those who’d been to England often told of being insulted, or beaten up, or harassed at the airport. But even these people had attitudes similar to those who hadn’t been there.