Mrs. Kawashiri opened the wrapping paper and took the lid off the box. “My favorites! You have George’s favorites, too.” George was Mr. Kawashiri. There is only a limited selection of manju, so when you buy a large assortment it’s hard not to have people’s favorites in it.
Happy that my small kindness was a success, I went back to my car and drove to East L.A. and Angela Sanchez’s address.
East L.A. is the modern Latino heartland of Los Angeles. Of course, in the two-hundred-year history of the city, Los Angeles has always been primarily a Latino city, but it’s becoming even more so because of a flood of recent immigration. Even the former African-American bastion of Watts is now more than 50 percent Latino. Despite the spread of Latinos in Los Angeles, East L.A. is still special. It’s where you find Latino families who have lived four generations in the same neighborhood, and who have true roots in both California and Mexico. Its blue-collar Mexican-American population is an amalgam of two cultures, just like I am.
There are some aspects of Latino culture that mirror Japanese culture. Both cultures share a respect for tradition, both are family oriented, and both make a virtue of hard work. Yet despite the admirable traits of Latino culture, for a significant minority of Latinos in Los Angeles, something has gone wrong. The respect for tradition has been transformed into a bastardized collection of gang signs, graffiti, and special gang clothing. The focus on family has been turned into a travesty that encourages the creation of large gangs or “crews” of taggers (organized graffiti vandals). The willingness to engage in hard work has become a fountainhead for endless criminal activity, both great and small, and mostly dealing with drugs.
The result is hundreds, if not thousands, of Latino gangs in Los Angeles. Gangs are not just a Latino phenomena, of course, because there are also Anglo gangs, African-American gangs, and Asian gangs in Los Angeles. Crime seems to be an equal opportunity employer, although you rarely hear of a racially mixed gang. It’s sad. It’s also dangerous because gangs not only fight each other, they also prey on citizens of all races in the city.
I was mindful of this as I drove into the East L.A. neighborhood where Angela Sanchez lived. You’d have to be a fool not to be aware of it when you drive into neighborhoods strange to you in this city. In Angela’s neighborhood the walls of almost every business were scarred with gang graffiti, along with many homes and apartment buildings. Groups of young men, some of them in gang-banger clothes, stood around on street corners engaging in mock fights and passing time. At minimarts banks of pay phones were arrayed outside, and better dressed youths stood waiting by the phones. Drug dealers waiting for their beepers to go off so they could buy and sell using public (and presumably untapped) phones.
A few stubborn residents maintained their houses with neat front lawns and graffiti-free walls. Even these bastions of middle-class normalcy exhibited the effects of the decline in the neighborhood because they invariably had bars on the windows and some even had fortified, wrought iron screen doors; the honest jailed in a desperate effort to keep out the predators that roamed free in the neighborhood.
Angela’s address was an apartment building with four units. The street was strange because one side of the street had four- to six-unit apartments and the other side had single family residences. Angela’s apartment seemed to be in pretty good shape, but the same couldn’t be said for all the apartments on the block. Several had graffiti scrawled on them and the minimal vegetation in the front was dead. One of the apartments had an old, grease-covered engine block sitting in front of it on the curb, a monument to both someone’s willingness to pollute the neighborhood while fixing a car parked at the curb and the city administration’s indifference to cleaning up the streets.
On the other side of the street the homes were old, but many were well kept. On several fences facing the street I could see where graffiti had been painted over. An older Toyota truck was parked in one driveway and a new Chevrolet was in another. Up the block a garage sale seemed to be in progress. If you ignored the ubiquitous window bars, the side of the street with the homes could be a Beaver Cleaver neighborhood with a salsa beat.
One side of the street represented the old East L.A. of stable families and roots, the other side was the new East L.A. of transients with no stake in this neighborhood, city, or country. I felt proud and sad for the homeowners. Proud because they seemed willing to put up a fight for their neighborhood and sad because I thought the fight would be a losing one. Eventually the neighborhood would succumb to dirt and decay, and the homeowners would start losing their children to the gangs and the street.
I pulled up on the opposite side of the street from Angela’s apartment and contemplated my next move. I’ve seen stakeouts a million times in movies and read about them even more, but the actual mechanics of a stakeout are something I’ve never given a lot of thought to.
I was an Asian sitting in a strange Nissan in a purely Latino section of town. I didn’t have one of those special vans you see in spy movies and I couldn’t afford to rent the proverbial apartment or house that always seems available, at least in fiction, across the street from the location under surveillance.
I stuck out like a sore thumb and the longer I sat there doing nothing the worse it became. I could pull up the block a distance so I wasn’t sitting directly in front of Angela’s apartment, but the people up the block might get alarmed or suspicious about someone sitting in front of their place for hours at a time.
There were also other practical problems to consider. If I left to get food it might be at exactly the time Angela chose to leave her apartment. Of course, I could go hungry, but sooner or later I’d have to go to the bathroom and the same problem would occur. And what if Angela wasn’t in the apartment in the first place? This stakeout wasn’t everything I figured it to be. Or more accurately, I hadn’t figured things out at all when I drove over to her apartment.
At a loss for something more detective-like to do, I got out of the car and walked across the street. I went to the door of her apartment and knocked. Nothing. I knocked a second time and was starting to wonder what to do next when the door was suddenly opened. It gave me a little start, but not as big a start as the person I was confronting.
He was a man in his mid-thirties. He was shorter than me, which meant that he was really short, but what he lacked in height he made up for in muscle. The muscle was easy to see, because he wasn’t wearing a shirt. It was a warm day, but not so hot that you’d expect to find people shirtless, and that surprised me a little. He was wearing scruffy jeans and equally scruffy cowboy boots with pointed toes. He was Latino, with a dark complexion baked a deep brown by exposure to the sun. His hair was greasy and curly, and worn in something that approached an old-fashioned flattop haircut. He did not look friendly.
“What do you want?” he said with a thick accent. A wave of sour beer breath rolled toward me. From the voice I thought it was the same man I talked to on the phone. On one bulging bicep he had a cross tattooed. On the other bicep he had “Jesus” tattooed. I didn’t know if this was an epithet, a prayer, or simply a name.
“Is Angela Sanchez at home? I’d like to speak to her.”
His eyes narrowed. “Who are you?”
“I met Angela a few nights ago and I’d like to talk to her.” I wasn’t anxious to give him my name.
His face darkened. “You think she’s a puta? Is that why you came by? She likes you yellow types, but she comes home to a real man. You understand that?” He poked a stubby finger at me, and I thought he was going to step right into my face. I haven’t been in a fistfight since grade school, but I thought I was going to be in one in about ten seconds. I stepped back and smiled with as friendly a smile as I could muster under the circumstances.