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pickadil a framework used to support a ruff or a standing collar.

pinking a decorative pattern of small holes and slits.

plumpers cork balls placed in each cheek to plump them out, a fashion of women toward the end of the century.

points ribbon, linen, or silk laces tipped with aglets, used most frequently to tie hose to a doublet.

ruching decorative gathers and pleats.

ruff the elaborate frill that radiated around standing collars of men and women.

russet a coarse wool worn by rural people.

sable a highly desired fur.

shag thick cloth used in linings.

slashing see panes.

slops wide breeches.

snoskyn a woman's muff.

Spanish cloak a short, hooded cloak.

Spanish farthingale a bell- or funnel-shaped skirt, formed by an understructure of this shape. See far­thingale.

startups loose leather shoes.

stomacher on the front of the bodice, an inverted triangle of stiffened material.

tippet a short cape.

trunk hose hose that swelled out from the waist to the thighs.

trunk sleeve a sleeve swelled out from the upper arm and closing at the wrist.

underpropper a collar wire that supported the ruff.

vambrace an armor piece that protected the forearm.

velvet popular material of the upper classes.

Venetians breeches that stopped at the knee. These were either baggy, close-fitting, or pear-shaped.

waistcoat a type of jacket worn by men or women.

CLOTHING OF THE 18TH CENTURY

Artois buckles large, square shoe buckles worn by both sexes in the second half of the century.

bag an ornamental purse of silk tied to men's hair. See bagwig.

bagwig a dress wig with the pigtail tucked into a black silk bag in the back of the neck. Also known as a bag.

banyan men's calf-length dressing gown.

beaver a hat made from beaver fur.

bedgown a full-length muslin or silk gown tied with a sash, worn by women.

bob wig a curly or frizzy wig in various lengths, worn by the middle class from the 1720s on.

breeches knee-length pants, buckled below the knee.

Brunswick a type of sack having a false bodice front and long, tight sleeves.

buffon a large handkerchief covering the open area left by a low-neck bodice.

buffskin buff-colored leather, fashionable in breeches and waistcoats.

bustle a gathering of material on the back of a woman's skirt forming a false rump.

cadogan a thick tail of hair, formed into a loop on the back of men's heads, fashionable in the 1770s to 1780s.

caraco a woman's thigh-length jacket.

cardinal a woman's knee-length, scarlet coat.

chatelaine a clasp or chain worn from the waist for holding perfume bottles, stay hooks, and other cos­metic accessories.

chemise a woman's full-length shift with ruffled neck and sleeves.

commode a woman's lace and linen headdress with lappets.

corset a sleeveless bodice laced from the back.

cravat a light linen scarf tied around the neck.

fantail hat a hat with a broad, turned-up front rim, worn by men.

fly cap a lace and wire cap shaped like a butterfly and sometimes decorated with jewels.

frock a long, loose, informal coat with a turned- down collar, worn by men for sport, riding, or other activities.

frogging looped braid fastenings, derived from mili­tary uniforms.

great coat a large, loose, calf-length overcoat with capelike collars for shedding rain, favored by coach­men. Also known as a surtout or a wrap-rascal.

hessians short riding boots decorated with tassels.

hoop a hooped petticoat used for puffing out skirts.

indispensable a handbag introduced at the end of the century. Also known as a reticule.

lappet a woman's hat streamer.

lawn a fine linen.

major wig a wig with two short pigtails.

milkmaid hat a round, low-crowned hat having a wide brim, worn at various angles by women. Also known as a bergere.

mob cap a bonnetlike cap with a puffed-out crown and frill and ribbon trim, worn by women.

modesty piece a strip of lace that covered the open area left by a low-necked bodice.

morning gown a gown worn by either sex before formally dressing in the morning.

nightgown a loose, indoor coat, not worn to bed.

night rail a long, indoor cape worn by women.

open robe a bodice and skirt, open in the front to reveal an elegant underskirt.

pantaloons introduced in the 1790s, long pants that extended to the ankles; worn by men.

paste glass cut and polished to look like gems.

petenlair a lady's thigh-length jacket with a sack back.

petticoat the name used for a woman's skirt.

physical wig a bushy, long wig worn by doctors and surgeons.

pinner a cap surrounded by a linen frill, worn by women.

polonaise an open gown bunched up in the back of the waist to form three separate bunches or swags.

pompon jeweled feathers or ribbons worn on the hair or on a cap.

riding habit a lady's dress with riding coat and waistcoat.

rollups stockings pulled up over the breeches at the knee.

rump a crescent-shaped bustle.

sack a voluminous gown with a back having box pleats stitched down each side.

shift a woman's linen and lace undergarment.

spencer a waist-length jacket having a roll collar and cuffs, worn by both sexes.

stomacher on the front of a bodice, an inverted triangle of stiffened material, usually elaborately embroidered.

tie wig a wig having a pigtail tied with a bow at the nape of the neck.

tippet a short shoulder cape, often white in color, worn by women over the bosom or tucked into the bodice.

tricorne a three-cornered hat with the brim turned up on all sides.

tucker white edging around the top of a low-necked bodice.

waistcoat a sleeved or sleeveless jacket having slit sleeves and worn under a coat.

witch's hat a hat with a pointed crown, worn most often by rural women.

CLOTHING OF THE 19TH CENTURY

adelaide boots women's boots with fur around the tops.

albert a short chain connecting a watch to a button­hole, popular from 1849 on.

albert overcoat a calf-length overcoat having breast and hip pockets and a half-circle cape resting on the shoulders.

alberts side-lacing half boots with cloth tops and false mother-of-pearl buttons on the front.

ankle jacks half-boots.

Apollo knot two or more wide loops of false hair wired to stand up on top of the head with decorative lace, flowers, or jeweled combs, popular with women from 1824 to the 1830s.