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banyan a long informal coat with flared skirts, worn around the house in the morning.

batswing a variation of the bowtie having a very small knot, fashionable in the 1890s.

bavolet a frill attached to the back of a bonnet to protect the neck from sun.

Benjamin a loose topcoat worn when traveling.

Benoiton chains long beads of black wood or fili- greed gold or silver that hung from each side of the head and draped across the bosom, popular from 1865 to 1870.

beret a crepe or silk evening hat, usually decorated with ribbons, flowers, or feathers. Also, a turban decorated with a plume.

bertha a frilled and ribboned border or collar cov­ering the sleeves and falling over the top of a bodice.

bloomers frilled trousers gathered about the ankles and worn under a short skirt.

boa a scarf of feathers. Also, a scarf of fur made from skunk, opossum, beaver, sable, or fox.

bodice the corsetlike, fitted portion of a dress from the waist to the upper chest, fastened up the back with hooks and eyes and boned in front, often heavily padded at the bosom.

bolero a short jacket joined only at the breast or not at all.

bollinger a hat with a wide brim topped by a domed crown or "hemisphere." Also known as a hemisphere hat.

bosom, artificial any material used to plump out the bosom, most frequently cotton or wax.

bowler a stiff felt hat with a narrow brim and a round crown.

braces suspenders.

breeches tight, high-waisted pants extending nearly to mid-calf.

burnoose a small cape or shawl with a hood attached.

bustle a crescent-shaped, wool-stuffed pad, worn in the back of the dress to plump out the behind.

calash a hood that could be folded by means of cane hoops and carried in a bag to an evening function.

capote a puffy bonnet with a stiff brim projecting around the face.

cardigan a short, close-fitting jacket without a col­lar, made of wool or English worsted.

catagan a chignon brought down to the nape of the neck.

chemise robe a dress or frock buttoning down the front from the neck to the hem.

chemisette white edging around the top of a low- necked bodice. Also known as a tucker.

chesterfield a large overcoat or topcoat with a vel­vet collar and several pockets, widely popular from the 1840s on.

chignon a mass of coiled or plaited hair, sometimes supplemented with false hair, gathered at the back of the head and often covered with a net.

cloak a long and voluminous overcoat without sleeves and fastened around the body like a cape. In the second half of the century cloaks had sleeves, and many had detachable capes.

cornette a generic term for any bonnet tied under the chin.

cossacks loose, voluminous trousers having leg bot­toms drawn closed by ribbons, popular from about 1817 to the 1830s.

cravat a light, linen scarf tied around the neck in a knot or bow.

crinoline a dome-, funnel-, or pyramidal-shaped understructure made of whalebone or spring hoops used to distend or widen skirts to as large as 18 feet in circumference. The skirt itself was often hitched up to show a scarlet petticoat beneath.

cummerbund a wide silk sash worn around the waist with a dress suit, popular with men from the 1890s on.

deerstalker cap a Harris tweed cap with ear flaps.

Dolly Varden dress a variation of the polonaise, having a short overskirt bunched up severely in the back.

duster a short summer overcoat.

follow-me-lads popular name for ribbon streamers trailing behind a woman's hat.

frock coat a knee-length, military-style overcoat.

gaiters leather or cloth leggings extended from the knee to the instep. Ankle-length gaiters were known as spats.

Garibaldi shirt a black-buttoned, red merino shirt worn with a belt and a black or other colored skirt.

gibus a top hat capable of being squashed flat and carried under the arm.

greatcoat a knee- or ankle-length overcoat, button­ing to just below the waist.

Grecian bend a fad in which a stooped posture was considered fashionable among women; a bustle was worn high on the back of the skirt to enhance this effect, popular from 1815 to 1819 and revived in 1868.

Hessians boots rising to just below the knee and decorated with tassels, worn most frequently with pantaloons.

highlows ankle boots buckled or strapped in front.

indispensable a circular or lozenge-shaped handbag favored by women. Also known as a reticule.

inexpressibles prudish name given to trousers to avoid being vulgar in speech. Also known as unmen­tionables and unwhisperables.

Inverness a greatcoat having a deep cape, popular from 1859 on.

jacket bodice a full-sleeved, form-fitting bodice spreading out over the waist.

knickerbockers a loose form of breeches, but lon­ger and wider; they buckled at the knee and were worn from the 1870s on for shooting, boating, golf, and riding.

mackintosh an overcoat made of rubber bonded over cloth, a source of complaints due to its unpleas­ant odor.

mantle a long cloak, frequently having a cape.

mob cap a bonnetlike cap with a puffed-out crown and frill and ribbon trim, worn most frequently in the kitchen by women.

muff a handwarmer made of fur or feathers.

paletot a short overcoat for men. Also, a large jacket that spread over a crinoline dress.

pantaloons close-fitting pants, held to the feet by straps. Also known as tights.

pelerine a cape.

pelisse a long, short-waisted, ankle-length overcoat with a broad, turned-down collar.

piccadilly a man's stand-up collar.

poke bonnet a bonnet with a forward projecting brim.

polonaise a very popular dress having an overskirt attached at the bodice and draped up at the rump. It was sometimes left unbuttoned from the waist down. Also known as a princess polonaise.

porkpie hat a lady's hat having a low, flat crown, resembling a pie.

princess dress a dress having a bodice extending down to serve as an overskirt. Also known as an Isa- beau dress.

pumps dress shoes open at the instep and just cov­ering the toes, tied with ribbons.

rationals bicycle bloomers, popular in the 1890s.

reticule a small, drawstringed handbag made of silk, satin, or velvet.

riding habit skirt a very long skirt worn when rid­ing to hide the legs from view.

sailor suit a popular boy's suit, consisting of a sail­or's hat, knickerbockers, and a blouse with a square flat collar and V neck, worn from the 1860s on.

shawl a garment draped over the shoulders to warm the upper body.

skeleton suit a young boy's suit consisting of highwaisted trousers buttoned up over a fitted jacket having a broad, white collar, from 1800 to 1834.

spats see gaiters.

spencer a short jacket pulled in at the waist, worn by women.