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surtout a long overcoat.

tam-o'-shanter a close-fitting, Scottish cap having a pompon, feather, or tassel sticking up from the center.

tea gown a loose dress without a corset, frequently trimmed with flounces and ruffled sleeves.

three storeys and a basement a woman's high- crowned hat.

tippet a cape.

top coat a greatcoat or overcoat.

top hat a narrow-brimmed hat with a tall crown, most frequently shiny black in color. Also called a chimney pot hat.

trilby a soft felt hat having a dent along the crown from front to back.

ugly on a bonnet, an extra brim tied over the exist­ing brim for extra shading against the sun.

ulster an overcoat worn with a belt and having a detachable hood, introduced in 1869.

unmentionables see inexpressibles.

unwhisperables see inexpressibles.

waistcoat a sleeved or sleeveless jacket; a vest.

whangee a popular cane or walking stick.

wideawake a popular wide-brimmed straw or felt hat having a low crown, worn by men.

CLOTHING OF THE 20TH AND 21sT CENTURIES

Caps and Hats

Alpine a fur felt hat with a slightly peaked crown. Also known as a Tyrolean.

bearskin a soft, furry, high-domed hat having a chain or strap under the chin, worn by the guards at Buckingham Palace.

bellhop a small pillbox cap, sometimes having a chin-strap, worn by old-time bellhops.

beret a wool or cloth tam; a visorless, pancakelike hat.

boater a straw hat having a flat, oval crown, previ­ously worn by men, now by women.

bobby a hat having a high, domed crown and a nar­row brim, worn by English police (bobbies).

bowler English stiff-felt hat having a curving brim and a round crown. Same as the American derby.

bubble beret a brimless, puffed-out beret, worn tilted to one side, popular in the 1960s.

buff see do-rag.

busby a tall, fur or feather hat having an ornamen­tal baglike drapery hanging from the crown to one side of the head, worn by some regiments of the Brit­ish army.

bush an Australian, cowboylike hat with a large brim turned up on one side.

calotte a beanielike cap made of leather or suede with a stemmed top.

cartwheel a woman's hat having a very broad brim and a low, round crown.

cloche a soft, domelike hat pulled down low over the forehead, worn by women.

coolie a bamboo or straw parasol-like hat worn as protection against the sun by the Chinese.

cossack a high, brimless Russian fur hat worn by men.

crusher a soft felt hat that can be rolled up and stowed in the pocket for traveling, popular in the early 1900s and again in the 1980s.

Davy Crockett coonskin cap famous for its raccoon fur and tail hanging from the back, popular with boys in the 1950s and early 1960s.

deerstalker a tweed cap having ear flaps and a visor extending from the front and back, made famous by Sherlock Holmes.

derby American name for the English bowler.

do-rag also known as a buff, a kerchief that is worn around the head and ties at the back of the neck.

Dutch boy a visored wool cap having a soft, broad crown.

eight-point cap a cap having an octagon-shaped crown, worn by policemen.

engineer's cap a blue-and-white striped cap with a visor, worn by railroad workers.

envoy a man's fur-crowned hat, similar to a cos­sack, popular in the 1960s.

fatigue cap an army cap similar in cut to an engi­neer's cap.

fedora a man's soft felt hat having a medium brim usually worn turned up and a crown that is creased down the middle from front to back.

fez a red felt hat in the shape of a truncated cone; a black tassel hangs from the crown; worn by Turkish men.

French beret see pancake beret.

French sailor a large cotton tam, usually blue or white with a red pompon on the crown.

garrison cap an olive or khaki-colored cloth dress cap creased lengthwise to facilitate folding, worn by army and air force personnel in World War I and World War II. Also known as an overseas cap.

gaucho a black felt hat having a broad brim and a flat, cylindrical crown, held in place by a chin strap; a South American cowboy hat fashionable with women in the 1960s.

glengarry a creased cloth cap having a regiment badge on the front side and two black ribbons streaming from the back, worn by Scottish Highland Military.

Greek fisherman's a soft denim or wool cap with a braided visor, a popular boating hat worn by both sexes in the 1980s.

homburg a man's felt hat having a creased crown and a narrow, rolled brim.

hunt a riding cap worn with a riding habit, charac­terized by a round crown with a button on top along with a chin strap and small visor.

hunting a bright orange cap with a visor.

jockey cap a visored cap similar to a baseball cap but with a deeper crown, worn by jockeys.

Juliet a skullcap made of chain, jewels, pearls, or rich fabric, worn with wedding veils or with evening attire.

kepi the French Foreign Legion cap having a flat, cylindrical crown and a visor, sometimes worn with a cloth havelock to protect the back of the neck from sunburn.

leghorn a woman's broad-brimmed, yellow straw hat.

Legionnaire's see kepi.

matador a hat reminiscent of the top of a bull's head, having two hornlike projections and a crown made of embroidered velvet.

mod a popular cap of the 1960s, actually an exag­gerated form of the newsboy cap of the 1920s.

mortarboard square, cloth-covered cardboard with tassel and skullcap worn at graduations.

mountie's a broad-brimmed hat with a tall crown creased into four sections, worn by state police and by the Royal Canadian Mounted Police.

newsboy a visored cap with a puffed or bloused crown that could be snapped to the visor; worn by newsboys in the early 1900s and made famous by Jackie Coogan in the films of the 1920s.

opera hat a tall, silk hat having a crown that could be collapsed, similar to a top hat but having a duller finish.

overseas cap see garrison cap.

painter's cap a visored cap having a rounded, flat- topped crown, worn by painters.

Panama a man's hand-plaited hat made from the straw of the jipijapa plant.

pancake beret a flat felt tam, sometimes worn tilted to one side by artists. Also called a French beret.

picture hat a large-brimmed hat made of straw, worn by women.

pillbox a small, round, brimless hat worn on the front, side, or back of the head, a popular woman's fashion since the 1920s.

planter's a broad-brimmed, banded straw hat with a dented crown.

porkpie a man's snap-brim hat with a low, flat crown.

profile a woman's hat having a brim turned sharply down at one side, popular in the 1930s.

Puritan a man's tall black hat, adorned with a black band and silver buckle, worn by 17th-century Puri­tans and revived for women's fashion in the 1970s.