I’d flown to Hervey Bay, hired the Land Cruiser and taken it on the ferry to the island. I’d heard about Fraser Island for years of course, but wasn’t quite prepared for the strangeness of it. There is something weird about all those trees sprouting out of pure sand and the lakes that just sit there, not being fed by streams or springs. Once I got used to driving on the sand I began almost to enjoy the place. As much as circumstances and my city habits permitted.
Tim Driberg had lived on Fraser for thirty years, had been a logger and a sandminer, and claimed to know every inch of it. He moved around by land and sea between the couple of small freeholds he owned, fishing, winching out bogged 4WDs and taking photographs for sale to travel magazines. He was about sixty and looked it although he was still lean and muscular. A long white scar on his right leg that almost glowed against the tanned skin came, he said, ‘from goin’ six fuckin’ rounds with a chainsaw’. His faded blue eyes crinkled in the lean, leathery face when I asked him about the boys. We were on the balcony adjacent to the bar of the Cathedral Beach Resort and drinking Crown Lager. I was on my second, Driberg was one ahead of me.
‘Handsome lads, very handsome. But shy. I turned a camera on them once and they ran like rabbits.’
‘Where was this?’
‘I forget. As I told Claude, I spotted them here, there and everywhere.’
I got out a map and pinned him down, confirming what he’d told me on the phone. Dilli Village, Eurong, Happy Valley, Cathedral Beach, Waddy Point on the east coast; Lake Boomajin, Central Station, Lake McKenzie and Lake Allam inland; near the Kingfisher Resort and at Massey Point on the west coast.
‘I’d say they were headed for the ferry back to Hervey Bay last time I saw them.’
‘But you didn’t see them board the ferry?’
‘No.’
By this time I’d already checked at some of these locations, showing photos of the boys to campers and fishermen and getting no response. Driberg seemed happy to have me pay for his drinks.
‘You don’t have a lot of information, Mr Driberg.’
He lit a cigarette and blew smoke out over the rail towards the fringe of dense bush that ringed the resort. ‘I’m an old Fraser Island hand. We keep ourselves to ourselves. I leave it to the fuckin’ greenies to worry about the outside world. Rwanda and all that shit. What did the outside world ever do for us?’
After driving the Land Cruiser over the sand and through the creeks, I’d been dry and had drunk the beers quickly by my standards. They’d run through me and I went to the toilet. When I got back Driberg had gone. The barman signalled me.
‘Tim got a packet of smokes. Said you’d pay for them.’
‘Why not?’ I put the money on the bar. ‘Where’ll I find him if I need to talk to him again?’
‘He’s got a place a bit north of here. I don’t mean the Sandy Cape joint. Just past the first creek and in a bit. He’s a character. Another beer?’
‘Yeah, thanks. What d’you mean, a character?’
The barman, a young tawny coloured man, expertly knocked the cap off the bottle and produced a fresh glass. ‘Hates the tourism. Yearns for the old days-chainsaws and draglines. A real redneck.’
After several nights of camping out I was happy to take a cabin in the resort that night. I had a decent meal and some wine and went to sleep listening to the sound of the surf pounding on the beach. The next two days I spent driving around the island checking on Driberg’s sightings of the Bucholtz boys. I got no confirmations and everything pointed to a need to see Mr Driberg again. I drove north, fording the streams high on the beach in the approved fashion (the vehicle hirers threatened penalties for driving through salt water), and located Driberg’s shack in the scrub behind the dunes. It was empty and bore signs of having been vacated hastily. The tyre tracks of his old Land Rover were distinctive and they headed north towards Sandy Cape. Going there would mean another couple of nights on the air-bed in the one-man tent with mosquitoes and Bundy rum for company and a tinned-food dinner in my belly, but what the hell? It was the one part of the island I hadn’t yet visited and one of the few places where Driberg hadn’t claimed to have seen the boys. That might mean something.
Driving on the back beach is tricky. You have to judge the tides right or you can find yourself being pushed so high up the beach you’re likely to get bogged in the soft sand. At a couple of points you have no option but to go inland to avoid rocky outcrops that bar the beach. You keep the revs up or you’re likely to find yourself axle-deep in sand. Time and tides were on my side and by the time I rounded Sandy Cape there was only one set of tyre tracks to follow.
According to the barman at Cathedral Beach, Driberg laid claim to a bit of land near the block on which the Sandy Cape lighthouse stood. His claim was disputed, but he’d built a shack there out of materials he’d brought ashore himself from his boat. The light was failing as I drove along the firm, straight beach with the lighthouse dead ahead, the only man-made thing in sight. I wasn’t confident of locating Driberg in the twilight and didn’t fancy setting up camp in the dark, so I turned off into a dry creek bed and made my arrangements-tarpaulin stretched across from the roof rack on the Land Cruiser to a couple of trees, tent, primus stove, driftwood fire, baked beans, tinned pineapple, beer, coffee and Bundaberg rum.
I was deeply asleep when I felt something nudging my ear. Dopily, I thought it was a mosquito and slapped at it. My hand hit something cold and hard, metallic. I woke up. A torch beam dazzled me and I threw up my hands to shield my eyes. Something thumped me in the chest and I collapsed back onto the air-bed, zipped up in the sleeping bag.
‘I thought you’d come after me,’ Driberg said. ‘And a city slicker like you’s got no fuckin’ chance out here against an old bushwhacker like me.’
I struggled to sit up and free my hands. ‘I’m not against you. I just wanted to talk to you.’
‘Like hell you did.’
First he hit me with the beam, then with the metallic object. The beam dazzled me and the blow put out all the lights.
My throat was dry, my head hurt and my hands were lashed together behind my back. My ankles were tied and I was lying on my back on sand. An insect was nibbling at my ear.
‘Hey!’ I yelled. ‘Hey!’
I swore and tried to summon some saliva up for my dry gullet that felt as if it had been sandpapered. I managed to struggle up into a sitting position although my cramped limbs didn’t want to move. I realised that my eyes were gummed shut and I wanted desperately to rub at them. I forced them open, feeling the mucus crack. With sight other senses returned; I could hear birds calling and feel a warm wind. I could smell the bush and smoke and something else. I squinted, trying to focus on the shapes around me. I was in a clearing about half the size of a football field with thick bush all around. But I still couldn’t make out the shapes.
I blinked hard several times and tried again. Some of the shapes were like cages or pens, others were smaller. They were laid out geometrically with a well-trodden path between them. I could see plastic water containers and drums.
I got my throat moistened and yelled again, louder. The first times must have just been croaks because now there was a reaction. I heard noises from the pens-grunting, barking, squeaking and the insistent howl of frustrated cats.
‘Music to my ears.’
Driberg was standing beside me, barefooted and wearing only a pair of shorts. Casually, he kicked me in the shoulder and I fell back. I tried to look up at him but the sun was just above his head and I had to look away. ‘Fuck you. What d’you think you’re doing?’
‘I know what I’m doing, mate. Happy to tell you. I’m running Noah’s fuckin’ ark here. I’ve got four pair of real wild pigs, a half dozen foxes, a couple of German shepherd bitches the dingos’ll go crazy over, lots of rabbits and cats and I don’t know how many rats. All doing nicely.’