“Visine,” she briskly replied, then added, “The cases and the objects are cleaner than I expected.”
“Good. Good.” He smiled broadly. “Mrs. Norton can’t stand one gum wrapper on the floor. She runs a tight ship. Have you found anything that surprises you?”
Canny, she lied,“No. Not yet anyway. As you know, there’s a wide range of articles here and authenticating some of them will take time. The dresses made in Paris, still lovely, aren’t they?” He nodded yes and she continued, “Those of course are much easier because the French dressmakers to the aristocrats kept excellent records, measurements, types of materials. Many even made drawings, colored, too, to remind them of what their patronesses had ordered. Then, as now, no two ladies wish to appear at the same ball wearing the same gown.”
“Easier for us men, isn’t it?”
“Today, yes. But can you imagine the layers for your full-dress military uniform? Gentlemen had batmen, dressers, because no man could do it himself.”
“How could they dance in boots?”
“They didn’t. They wore their dress uniform but with silk stockings, expensive breeches, and equally expensive pumps. Society required money and lots of it.” She warmed to her subject.
“Still does,” Pamela said sourly. “My mother spends enough on clothes to pay for Argentina’s army.”
“I’m sure she’s quite beautiful,” Professor Kennedy replied.
“She is. Pamela’s mother was Thaddea Bolendar, the famous model back in the late seventies. She made the cover ofVogue.” Knute, like most men, went weak at the knees at the sight of Pamela’s mother.
Professor Kennedy, a woman and therefore far more sensitive to the mother-daughter dynamic, instantly appreciated the source of some of Pamela’s unhappiness, for Pamela, a little overweight, resembled her father more than her mother. In short, she would never be a beauty, but if she worked at it, she could be attractive. Her sharp eyes took in six-foot-one-inch Valentina’s unforced, athletic beauty, all that gorgeous blonde hair, those blue eyes. Then there was petite Tootie, standing right next to Pamela. Poor Pamela suffered by comparison, for Tootie in her way was every bit as stunning as Pamela’s famous and spoiled mother. As for Felicity, she was simply pretty. One had to study Felicity before realizing how pretty she was.
Professor Kennedy smiled brightly at Knute.“My experience is that the children of highly successful parents, once they learn not to compare themselves to their parents, go on to become successful themselves.”
“That’s an interesting observation.” Knute clearly didn’t get it.
Pamela did and she brightened.“Really?”
“Well, yes, because success, regardless of career, can be broken into discrete bits of practice, if you will, traits, behaviors. Even though you need special skills for different tasks, jobs, there are certain things that cut across all careers. For instance, something as simple as determination.No one gets anywhere without it.”
“We’ve got that.” Valentina beamed and then in one of those moments of insight, underrated in the young even though they have them, she grasped Pamela’s discomfort. “I think Pamela is more determined than any of us.”
Pamela didn’t trust the compliment coming from her archrival, but she was glad of it.
Tootie, per usual, kept her thoughts to herself.
Bill Wheatley breezed in. Seeing the cases open, Knute standing there, he skidded to a halt.“Knute, I had no idea you were interested in our heritage.”
Knute teased Bill back,“Now, Bill, just because I don’t go into a rapture over a ribbon doesn’t mean I don’t care.”
Bill chuckled, speaking to Professor Kennedy,“To tell the truth, Professor, I’m afraid few of us have paid much attention to the treasures in our display cases here much less to their manufacture. We’re all so busy with our duties we forget to stop and smell the roses, if you will.”
“You’ve studied the clothes,” Knute contradicted him.
“Yes. It’s been so helpful for costumes for plays set in the beginning of the nineteenth century. Don’t know beans about the rest of it.” His eyes fell on the snaffle bit. “Valentina, Tootie, girls, this is right up your alley. And if you don’t know, Sister Jane will.”
“The master?” Professor Kennedy appreciated the social grace and skill with which Sister had made her feel welcome at the Opening Hunt breakfast.
“She has ancient pieces of tack, bits, boot pulls, you wouldn’t believe the junk she has in the barn or up at the house. She’s got one old curb chain from the time of Charles I! When an argument broke out about the introduction of the curb chain, damned if she didn’t bring it out.”
“A curb chain?” Professor Kennedy knew little about horses or their accoutrements.
“A chain under the horse’s chin,” Pamela replied. “Sometimes they have a larger link smack in the middle.”
“You use them with a Pelham bit,” Tootie added, pointing to the snaffle. “Wouldn’t use it with this.”
“Ah, well, as you can gather, the development of equipage is not my forte. I suppose I should learn the basics.” She paused. “Until Henry Ford made cars affordable, we needed horses.”
“Still do.” Valentina loved her gelding, Moneybags.
“Luncheon with Sonny,” Knute said as he checked his watch. “Professor, if you ever need help on sailing history, call me. In fact, I just bought a three-masted schooner, in need of T.L.C., but a beauty all the same. She’ll be seaworthy by spring.”
As Knute left, Bill filled in Professor Kennedy.“He really does know a lot about sailing. It’s his grand passion.”
“You certainly have a diverse administration.”
“One of the strengths of Custis Hall.” Bill checked his own watch, returning his gaze to the tiny lady. “Charlotte mentioned that your expertise is construction. We don’t have much of that, I mean a few pegs and nails here and there.”
“That’s where I started because that’s what I could see, more material, if you will. But I have tried to expand my knowledge into the living arts, kitchenware, even clothing, although I would never pass myself off as an expert in attire. I can grasp the fundamentals and it’s my good fortuneto have many colleagues I can turn to for advice.”
“Interesting work?”
“I love it.”
“As you can see, we have a hodgepodge.”
“Yes, but there are items here of great cultural value.”
“And no one cares. No one cares who made that bit or how they lived.” Pamela’s face flushed as she said this.
“People are beginning to care, Pamela. The past is always with us even when we aren’t aware of it. Not knowing one’s past is like being blind in one eye. You think you can see but you’re hampered, deceived even,” Professor Kennedy replied.
At the word“deceived” Bill perked up. “Yes, yes, of course, I never thought of that.” He checked his watch again. “Well, I have so enjoyed chatting with you, Professor, and I’m always glad to see my four favorite students. Her Most High has summoned me and I must repair.” He bowed with a flourish, then disappeared down the administration hall.
Pamela’s steely gaze followed him. She blurted out, “When I first came here I thought he was gay. He’s not.”
“He’s a fop.” Tootie giggled.
“Oh, let’s just say he’s theatrical,” Valentina said as she wondered how she’d look in the low-cut ballgown that had pride of place in the adjoining case.
“Ladies, there have been times in history when men enjoyed a greater latitude of expression in dress and behavior than they do now. Nothing at all to do with gender issues. Think of the drawings and paintings of courtiers during the time of Elizabeth I. Think of the drawings of African kings fromthe nineteenth century.” She paused. “But you see in those days the highest goal was glory, personal glory, hopefully in the service of one’s king, queen, country. The goals have changed, and one doesn’t hear the word ‘glory’ anymore. We have become dull, efficient, dry—men more so than women.”