“I’ve read the book. You were right.”
He keeps silent for a while. Then he again looks at me smiling and adds:
“I love the world!” and runs home at breakneck speed.
We stand still for a while, watching the kid. Then we get back into the car and go on with our journey.
We spend the night in Chilas.[11]
* * *
I’m leaving Pakistan.
I’m returning back home happy, realizing that somewhere in the remote village of Jell, in North Pakistan, there lives a little boy Abdul Karim who loves the world.
Pakistan, the Diamar Gorge
June 14, 2011.
A NEPALI STORY
In Katmandu, the capital city of Nepal, a huge expedition was getting ready to climb Mount Everest. There were about twenty people in the group.
All the mountaineers were mere acquaintances, but Gialtsen Nuru, Lakpa Sherpa and Fernando seemed to be close friends.
Three days later, the whole expedition was already in Katmandu, and one evening the group decided to go to the open-air restaurant. Gialtsen Nuru told everyone that he was engaged to Lakpa Sherpa, and that they would get married as soon as the expedition was over. “But at the moment, my main concern is to help Lakpa to climb Everest; she will be the first woman to climb it from Tibetan side,” he said.
Lakpa was sitting timidly, watching everyone around, but time and again she would look at Gialtsen Nuru, the famous Sherp mountaineer and her fiancé, with admiration.
Unlike the other Sherps, Lakpa was tall and had most delicate features. All the Sherps were fond of her, but the happiness of mutuality was all Gialtsen Nuru’s.
The evening was a real fun. Everyone told some interesting old stories, drank a lot of beer and laughed a lot.
Sherps are very special people, always cheerful and merry in the town, and with great stamina in the mountains.
* * *
Two days later, the expedition packed their equipment and left for the Tibetan border. The base camp was located pretty far. It might take them six days to get there. And then there would start the major event: The expedition would be trying to get to the pick of Everest for a month and a half. Some of the mountaineers would succeed, but some others wouldn’t.
Gialtsen Nuru stayed in Katmandu with several men. They were going to catch up with the group a week later.
The expedition took the heights by and by, spending nights in different villages. It was right to do so, for they got acclimatized without any problems.
* * *
Fernando was very attentive to Lakpa from the very first day, but nobody noticed it. His odd behavior became obvious and of common knowledge only on the fifth day. Norbu Sherpa, Gialtsen Nuru’s devoted friend, got very upset and indignant. He took Lakpa aside and said:
“Is anything wrong going on or have I gone mad? Have you forgotten all about your fiancé?”
Lakpa looked at him in amazement, but then she surrendered for she knew that Norbu was aware of everything.
“Fernando loves me,” she said, “He promised me to hire several Sherps to help me to get to the peak, and I will be the first Nepali woman who climbed Everest from Tibetan side... Then we’ll go to Bergamo and have a lot of children,” she added turning her head aside, “I love him, too.”
“It can’t be true!” exclaimed Norbu Sherpa, “How is it possible to fall seriously in love with a man in five days’ time? What are you going to say to Gialtsen Nuru?”
“I don’t know,” Lakpa answered, “ What I know for sure is that I’m going to Bergamo with Fernando.”
Norbu Sherpa was dumbfounded. Nevertheless, he decided to talk to Fernando.
For two days he couldn’t manage to do so. Besides, at times he thought it was none of his business... But when he recalled Gialtsen Nuru’s eyes, full of love, he felt confirmed in his decision.
In the end, he arranged to be alone with Fernando and asked him right away:
“Tell me, is it true what Lakpa says, or have you got a different attitude to her?”
Fernando looked at Norbu with an absent look. Then he thought for a while and answered:
“I love her... And it’s my right to love her. We are going to leave for Bergamo.”
Norbu had nothing to reply. He felt that his heart sank... but he also felt it was none of his business.
* * *
Several days later, Gialtsen Nuru and the other mountaineers arrived to the base camp. The meeting was awkward – all of the men felt uneasy. But then it was all settled, for Lakpa told her former fiancé everything herself, asking him to go away as soon as he could.
Gialtsen Nuru didn’t leave his tent for three days, refusing to eat anything.
On the fourth day he came out with an expression of someone totally insane, said good-bye to his companions including Fernando, and several hours later he left the campground.
The team lost the best mountaineer and, possibly, the most reliable friend.
The expedition was coming to an end. Only two more days were left until the final step when Norbu noticed Lakpa Sherpa sitting sad by her tent.
When he neared her, she burst into tears. Having calmed down a little, she told Norbu:
“You were right; I have nothing to say in my defense... You also know that my life, despite Everest, came to an end. Sherps will never forgive me my betrayal!”
Norbu was puzzled. “But you are leaving for Bergamo, aren’t you?” he asked in amazement.
“No, I’m not,” was the answer. “It was only a fun for him,” she added, sobbing bitterly.
Norbu was dumbfounded once again, and he left the woman hastily.
Next day he got Fernando and asked him right away:
“Why have you ruined the lives of those two poor people? Is what Lakpa told me true, or did you play a joke on her?”
“Are you kidding? You are not as gullible as she is, are you? Don’t worry, she will find another gialtsen nuru for herself!”
Without a moment’s hesitation, Norbu gave him a terrible blow on his jaw.
* * *
Three days later, the expedition went back to Katmandu from where each of the mountaineers left for their country with heavy hearts except Fernando, who left with the wires in his jaw.
After a fortnight, terrible news came from Nepaclass="underline" Lakpa Sherpa committed suicide – she jumped from the cliff near Namche Bazaar[12], leaving behind the memory of a pretty young woman who had dreamt of climbing Everest and having a lot of children.
* * *
This sad story took place many years ago. A lot of people have visited Himalayas since. There is scarcely anyone who remembers what has really happened. Gialtsen Nuru left Nepal long ago, and nobody knows what has become of him.
But time and again, the sweethearts in Solo Khumbu, in the land of Sherps, can see the smiling face of Lakpa Sherpa high up in the clouds.
Nepal, 2011.
THE KING OF MUSTANG
Monarchy was abolished in Nepal several years ago. But in the north-west of the country, near the Tibetan border, there exists a tiny kingdom, with thirty thousand inhabitants, which still has a king. The King’s name is Jidney. He is an extraordinary person – taking care of his beloved people day and night, and always going on foot like his ordinary compatriots. He is not accompanied by the guard or an escort or courtiers; He just walks all by himself, absolutely alone.
Jidney has lively eyes. He is a very smart man, always smiling and comprehending the others concerns from half a word.
* * *
“Jidney, I need your advice. I wish to grow rice on my plot. It might be profitable to sell it down in the lowlands.”