The sun shines bravely through the cold weather. The tour man said to expect snow in Switzerland. I think I will go shopping for a hot water bottle! This has been an easy day. In my rambles about town, I did observe something unique. In almost every shop window, I saw red stickers saying either that it was an “Aryan store” or a “Party store.” Some stickers said, “Approved by the Arbeits Party.” There were gas masks in almost every store window display! Next to each gas mask stood a poster that read: “I have mine; do you have yours?” There were signs posted everywhere, indicating that one could find “cellar rooms” nearby. A cellar room was to be sought out, in the event of an air raid. These shelters must have been numerous because no matter where one stood, they could see at least one sign that indicated how many minutes to a particular cellar room, and the number of people it could hold.
Looking around for evidence of activity against the Jews, I did notice one large terrible picture of a Jew — with long grasping arms — holding churches, schools, and banks. There were many evidences of an unsettled state. The streets — and even the houses — were teeming with soldiers. Here in Vienna, they surely believe in preparedness. It seems they are going to have four “black nights” next week, and I shall miss them all.
A special event that I would like to have seen, is the changing of traffic from the left-hand side of the street to the right-hand side, in accordance with German custom. Vienna is the last Austrian city to change over. This is to take place tonight at midnight. I need to leave town early tomorrow, so I they will have to perform the ceremony without me. It has been interesting watching them change the streetcar entrances, all in preparation for the stroke of midnight. I came back to the hotel for lunch and to rest, as tonight it will be rather late when I return.
Our Vienna night tour was wonderful! I met only two English-speaking people, but there were others who tried to speak it. We went to the Prather amusement park and rode on the famous Ferris wheel and the scenic railway. This is a huge amusement park along the Viennese lines of a Coney Island. The roller coaster seemed tame compared to those in America. On the way up to Koblenz, we drove by Schubert’s birthplace. The air was very clear and chilly, but we had a lovely view of Vienna and the Blue Danube by night. We then visited the Koblenz Bar, where an orchestra alternated between Viennese music and American Jazz. One minute we heard the Blue Danube Waltz, and the next tune was Billie Holiday’s “Says My Heart.”
The Germans drank American cocktails while the Americans and British enjoyed German champagne. Our next stop was at Grinzing where we were lead down into a cellar to learn how wine is made. After tasting several types of wine, we returned to the main level, where we sat around tables, eating strange things on rolls and drinking wine. Here we enjoyed an excellent orchestra, with musicians who wandered among us. During the last melody, we sang, joined hands, and swayed around the table. On our return trip, it was comical to see the transformation of the people on that bus. Everyone was having a good time — singing and laughing — even the stout old ladies. When the bus dropped me off at my hotel, it was difficult to tear myself away from that party. They probably kept it up until morning. I had to arise at 6:30, so I trotted off to bed like a good little girl.
Date: September 17, 1938
Place: Vienna to Salzburg
Weather: Wunderschon.
This has been another one of those days fraught with surprises. The Budapest to Paris train left Vienna a little after 8 a.m. and most everyone else was going farther than Salzburg. The atmosphere seemed very stiff in our compartment at first, so I sat and read a detective story. The man across from me (who had been dying to talk for the last hour or so) broke down and spoke some English. From then on things were better. Three fellows boarded shortly after we passed Linz. They carried a portable radio, so we skimmed along, listening to some of the prettiest Viennese music.
The newcomers spoke about ten words of English, and they turned out to be lots of fun. I almost died giggling at the youngest fellow’s imitation of a Spanish dancer. He had the fair hair and blue eyes that so many of these Austrians possess. They all reminded me of Max, unfortunately. As we approached Salzburg, the countryside was studded with sparkling blue lakes against a background of heavenly snow-capped mountains. I was still entranced upon my arrival at Salzburg, and thus unprepared for the shock that lay ahead.
After departing the train, I looked for my baggage, but it was nowhere in sight! I tried desperately to find my way to the street. Usually when I exited a train, I just followed the crowd. This time there were very few people, and they had scattered in all directions. After many false turns, I emerged at the street, and found my baggage sitting there, with no one around. When I asked a taxi driver to go to the Salzberger Hof Hotel, he said that it had not been a hotel since the German occupation of Austria, the preceding March. It was now a German military headquarters! I carried a book of prepaid coupons with which to pay for all of my hotels. You can imagine my consternation at having to spend some of my precious German marks (which I needed for purchases) on a hotel bill. I had planned it so that I would not have much money left over, as one could only take 10 Marks out of the country. Since I was leaving the country right after my next stop at Innsbruck, I was in a pretty picklement.
After being shoved from one place to another, it finally turned out that I would have to pay the hotel bill myself, for these two nights. The penny-counting really intensifies now. A clerk at the railway station said I had better go to the Salzburger Hof anyway, and ask if they knew of a room. I stepped up into a horse-drawn carriage, commandeered by a big fat, mustached Austrian. He was extremely good-natured, spoke not a word of English, but proceeded to the Salzburger Hof. It was a lovely day, in such a lovely place, and I should have enjoyed it more if I had not been worried about having a place to stay. Sure enough, my scheduled hotel was a military establishment, and it was occupied by Germans, not Austrians. I reported my dilemma to a kind female employee, who told me to follow her. She led me to Nazi Headquarters! (I guess I really reported it good, didn’t I!) An official at Nazi Headquarters suggested I return to the railway station and find the tourist information office. I had another picturesque ride in the same little horse-drawn carriage. The agent at tourist information office secured an inexpensive room for me at the Elizabeth Station. It was near the railway station, and was close to many places of interest. My entire trotting around in the horse and carriage cost me only 3M, which was very reasonable. The jolly old driver had made himself available to me for at least an hour.
My lovely room is spacious, and is decorated all in white. There is a wonderful view from the window and the quietness outside my room is refreshing. The jovial landlady actually speaks excellent English! After checking my travel literature to see where things were located, I went for a walk in this most picturesque of picturesque towns. The tourist season is almost over, so there were few foreigners around. I sat in parks in the chilly air, and let the sun soak through me. Salzburg is the most unique city I have seen so far. The native Austrian dress is the rule rather than the exception, although many of the men are wearing military uniforms. The women’s dresses are so unique, that I long for the money and an excuse to buy one. How does one take photos of the gaily-costumed people, without seeming rude? Just as my travel book stated, the Salzburg men seem very friendly and romantic at heart.
