Back at the Poulard Hotel, we watched a chef create the famous Mere Poulard omelettes and enjoyed a delicious meal, including omelettes and the famous salt grass fed lamb. The soufflé-like egg delights are oversized and quite fluffy. After dinner, we strolled the streets and made a few purchases. Our next stop is Normandy.
Date: August 24, 1938
Place: Normandy France (Trouville)
Weather: Absolutely perfect.
What a lovely place to awaken in the morning! After breakfast, we drove through Avranches and right on to Bayuex, where we saw the famous tapestry in the library. Our guide explained the known history of the tapestry. It tells the story of William the Conqueror, and the invasion of England in 1066. It was thrilling to discover that I was able to read the entire story from the Latin that was woven or embroidered right into the tapestry. Of course, we all purchased printed copies of the tapestry so we can enjoy seeing it again and again. The car stopped for lunch at a hotel in Caen, where we recognized a French movie and stage actress who was seated two tables away. Her name is Madeleine Renaud. Miss Renaud graciously consented when Margy asked for her autograph.
We arrived at Deauville-Trouville about 4 p.m. Our guide said that Deauville is frequented by rich sugar daddies and their gold-diggers. We have been intently looking around to see some of them, but they have not crossed our paths. In spite of the crowds of visitors here, we managed to secure lovely rooms at the Langer hotel. As in Mont St Michel, one hates to be so plebian as to go to sleep. The area around our hotel reminds me of Atlantic City. We sauntered along the boardwalk this afternoon, and then dove into large bowls of ice cream. Reclining under a boardwalk umbrella, we listened to divine gypsy music and gazed at people passing by. Dinner was followed by a visit to the casino, where we viewed gamblers play a roulette style game called La Boule. My one brave little gambling fling was unsuccessful, and I have no great desire to try again.
Date: August 25, 1938
Place: Normandy and back to Paris
Weather: Very good.
It is difficult to plan our next Paris sightseeing tours, while shivering! The temperature must dip down to 50 degrees here in the evening, and there is no heat in our room. We had a lovely breakfast at the Hotel Langer, sitting in the terrace garden overlooking the sea. The food was delicious enough, but OH, how we enjoyed the apricot jam! Knowledge of the French language is essential in Normandy, especially when the guide is not with us. We drove to the Vieux Marche, to see the place where 19-year-old Jeanne d’Arc (Joan of Arc) was burned at the stake. Nearby is the spot where the tribunal sat in judgment, and a fine statue of Jeanne d’Arc. Dinner in Paris at the Voltaire Café, and a walk on Rue St Michel, finished the day.
Date: August 26, 1930
Place: Paris
Weather: Fine.
It is so grand to wake up in Paris, again! Poor Mr. Raffite is worried that we won’t be going to an Apache nightclub. He has even offered to take us himself, the old darling. We will have to tell him when we decide to go, because they lock the hotel at midnight. If one plans to come back after midnight, he has to ask for a key to take with him. This morning we took the other part of our Paris tour, that of modern Paris, so-called. The crowded tour bus stopped at the Expiatory Chapel, which has been constructed over the burial place of victims of the guillotine — rich and poor — Marie Antoinette and Robespierre together.
Our drive down the Champs Elysees ended at the Triumphal Arch and the tomb of the Unknown Soldier, over which burns the eternal flame. The tomb was covered with lovely flowers, this morning. We noticed that there is a wonderful view from this Arch, across the Champs Elysees, past the Place Du le Concorde, to the Louvre. Our next stop was the tomb of Napoleon, which is surrounded by the only remaining old flags of that period. The list of the battles that he fought and won is inscribed on the floor. Also at this site, are the tombs of several of Napoleon’s Generals. On a street named Rue de la Paix, we eagerly descended upon a Transatco store, and sniffed so much perfume that we could taste it for hours! The prices were so reasonable that we purchased several bottles. Now — to get it home safely.
Date: August 27, 1938
Place: Paris
Weather: Fine.
Today was a full day of shopping for souvenirs, theatre tickets, and excursions. After that, we secured some excellent seats for the opera, “Salome.” At the large department store, “Au Printemps,” we again reverted to shopping. Eventually tearing ourselves away, we took a taxi to the travel agency to arrange for trips to Versailles and Chartres. Tickets for the night-tour of Paris were clutched in our hands and we could hardly wait!
After dinner, we went on that night tour of Paris, visiting clubs and cabarets. I sat on the bus with an English fellow, who was the perfect image of a young Duke of Windsor. His family, seated in front of us, kept peering around to make sure that their son was behaving! At a strange little Turkish club, we sipped dark Turkish coffee and listened to bizarre, fast-paced music. A beautiful belly dancer snaked her way between the tables, stopping at ours for several minutes. Before we left, I purchased an ornate ring that was made in Algiers. How often does one have the opportunity to buy jewelry that contains a secret little poison compartment? Our next stop was a nightclub in a very rough Apache area of the city. This establishment used weird lighting and sound effects, in an effort to simulate a thunderstorm. The effect was like the Fourth of July and Christmas, all rolled together. We were served tall glasses of mint lemonade, which was surprisingly delicious!
The next club was called “Le Neant” — a ghastly place! We sat there and drank nasty beer, while being surrounded by skulls and skeletons! It is hard to say which was more unsettling — the performances, or the pictures on the walls. I think that “Le Neant” means nothingness. I wanted desperately to get out of that place. Finally, the tour proceeded to “Le Bal Tabarin,” one of the ritziest nightclubs in Paris. The floorshow was over an hour long, and consisted of a wide variety of skits, daring acrobatics, and dances. Can Can dancers in colorful ruffled gowns, did their high kicks, adding cartwheels and splits. Beautiful girls rode a fancy carousel, which slowly ascended from beneath the stage floor. Other dancers descended from the ceiling! We drank champagne, and watched women cavort around, wearing nothing but their imaginations. Thoroughly exhausted, we tumbled into bed at 4 a.m.
Date: August 28, 1938
Place: Paris
Weather: Very nice!
After lunch in the Latin Quarter, Margy and I strolled down by the Seine, and stopped several times to investigate the wares of the many bouquinistes (booksellers.) Our destination was the Louvre. Once inside, it was thrilling to lay our eyes on such a great number of famous paintings, such as the Mona Lisa, and others by Titian, Botticelli, and Van Dyke. We sought out the “Winged Victory” and “The Gleaners.” I made a note to return another day, especially to see the “Venus de Milo.” We relaxed in the splendor of the elaborate Tuileries Gardens and then hunted up the “Restaurant les Ministeres” where we enjoyed an inexpensive but delicious dinner. We are having such fun trying out the little restaurants in France, with occasional visits to the large ones. The eternal struggle with the language sometimes produces peculiar things to eat, but we do not mind one little bit. Overall, the food is delicious — much better than that we had in England.