Date: August 29, 1938
Place: Paris
Weather: Still fine.
This was our morning for the Flea Market. At the Porte de Clignancourt, the stalls were lined up, row upon row. This open-air market suffered decidedly in contrast to the Caledonian market in London. It is sometimes referred to as the “rag market” and to us it seemed like nothing more than piles of junk. I have to admit that we do lack the connoisseur’s art of recognizing valuable knick-knacks. Margy bought a darling blue and gold Limoges cup and saucer.
We wandered around the market until noon. Since we seemed to be accumulating little else but dirt and germs, we rounded up a bus and returned to town. It is strange how we feel we need to take taxis to our destinations, but we always find a bus that takes us back. After lunch at the Pam Pam — Bar de la Paris, we searched for the shop of a dressmaker, who had been recommended by a friend. Instead of being a dressmaker, this lady turned out to be an excellent modiste, (milliner) who was such a good saleslady that she talked me into buying a hat! I am crazy about this hat! The style of the veil is one that I have always longed for. This unplanned purchase, forces me to get out my list of things to buy in Paris, and cross off the word “Dress.”
Margy wanted to look at a ring she saw in the window of a jewelry store on the Ave de l’Opera, and I came out with a ring, as well! It only cost 50y and is bee-oo-ti-ful. She succumbed to the lure of a lovely handkerchief, on our way to the Place de la Concorde. We taxied to the Eiffel Tour and took an elevator to the highest platform, from which we could see for miles. The view towards the Trocadero was lovely, but the most spectacular sight was the glistening whiteness of the Sacre Coeur in the far distance. L’ascenseur (the elevator) which took us to the top of the “tour” (tower) was quite unusual. We kept transferring from one “cabine” to another. The cabines were little glass rooms that moved up and down via pulleys. I believe the tower is second only in height to the Empire State Building in NY City. Rumor is that they are planning to take down the Eiffel Tour in a year or two. It seems like such a shame.
At the Opera, we had grand velvet covered seats in a box for eight. This seating was only available because most Parisians are on holiday in August. The beautiful staircases and elaborately framed mirrors make it one of the most magnificent opera buildings in the world. We saw Salome, (the story of John the Baptist,) a Swan Dance, and an interpretive dance called Elvire. There is no such thing as a sensible bedtime these days!
Date: August 30, 1938
Place: Paris and Chartres
Weather: Cloudy, but fine.
Traveling from Paris to Chartres, we drove past the military camp in Satory, and caught a glimpse of several hundred soldiers involved in all kinds of activities. Just beyond the former Abby of Port-Royal, a tire on our car blew out! The poor chauffer had to struggle with the tire while we wandered around picking flowers. The town of Chartres was once the site of Druidical worship. The greater part of the present church dates back to 1200-1400. The stained glass Rose Window is truly divine. There are four entrances to the Cathedral, which are distinct in structure and in meaning. I found the south entrance with its figures of “The Last Judgment” and the twelve apostles the most interesting of all. The touring car wound its way back to Paris, arriving at 6:00. We dined once more at “Restaurant les Ministeres” and then hurried home to go to sleep early for once.
PS: A funny thing happened today! We had asked the tour company for our former guide, Geoffe, to accompany us on this trip. “Geoffe” we got, (we thought) but imagine our surprise when our guide “Joffe” told us he was a twin brother of Geoffe! I still cannot believe they are not the same person! I do think that Geoffe knew more about architecture, whereas this Joffe was better looking!
PPS: I love the bells on carts and bicycles here — they tinkle in a most harmonious manner.
PPPS: We saw many women washing their clothes in the river — it seems to be the custom.
Date: August 31, 1938
Place: Paris, Versailles, etc.
Weather: Cloudy but no rain.
Our first stop was at Malmaison, which derived its name from the fact that it was a hospital for sick people, (mal) before the Palace was constructed. This was the favorite residence of Napoleon and Josephine. She continued to live here after they divorced. It later became the property of the French Government. We viewed some of Josephine’s dresses, Napoleon’s hats, and his camp furniture. At Versailles, we first visited the Grand Trianon Palace used by Louis XIV, XV and XVI. The rustic simplicity of the little farm of Marie Antoinette contained many small houses and stables. Here she loved to forget about the affairs of state and just enjoy herself. The temple of Eros and the lovely woods were particularly attractive. The elegant Palace cost 40 million pounds, and the interior elegance can be summed up as a treasure trove of gold, crystal and art masterpieces. We visited the chapel where Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette were married. The Gallery of Mirrors was the height of magnificence with its 17 huge wall length mirrors and 17 corresponding doors opening onto the terrace and the gardens. The Treaty of Versailles was signed here in 1919, after the World War. The gardens of the Versailles Palace consist of beautiful flowers, rows of statues, numerous wide terraces, and elaborate fountains. After returning through beautiful countryside to Paris, we dined at the newest Café Voltaire.
Date: September 1, 1938
Place: Paris
Weather: Fine.
TIMELINE: Hitler demands that Czechoslovakia immediately concede the Sudetenland portion of its country to Germany.
Today, our first visit was to the Conciergerie, which was the prison for those to be slain by the guillotine. Our French-speaking guide talked so distinctly that I had no trouble understanding him. It seems that the prisoners were of two classes — those who could pay for their rooms, and those who could not. The latter class was herded together in a long dark disagreeable cell. Around the corner from the cell were the stairs leading up to the tribunal where all were judged. Subsequently, the prisoners went directly to the court and thence to the guillotine. We saw the cells that housed Marie Antoinette, Robespierre and others. In Marie’s room, there was a special niche for the guards to stand — just opposite her dressing table, however she was allowed to have a screen for privacy. A chapel now contains all sorts of relics, including the guillotine knife, Marie Antoinette’s chair, and the pinpricked note by which she attempted to escape. Our next visit was to the Sainte Chappelle, which is all that is left of the old Palace of Justice. This beautiful 13th century church is a perfect example of Gothic architecture in Paris. The colors of the glass windows seem to penetrate your soul, producing a magical effect. These windows are carefully taken down in times of war, even though it takes years to put them back in place.
Back in Paris, we visited the Pantheon where we viewed the tombs of Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Voltaire, Zola, and others. We strolled through the Luxembourg Gardens then shopped for cheap suitcases to hold our many purchases. The suitcases we bought are not much more than cardboard boxes with handles, but they will do. We ended our afternoon at the Café de la Paris, sipping Dubonnet and watching the crowds throng by. They say if you sit here two hours, you will see someone you know. Our evening out included a lavishly produced show at the Folies Bergere. It was indeed an elaborate spectacle, which reminded me greatly of the Ziegfeld Follies — with a little more nudity. I think I enjoyed the Opera more.