TABLE OF CONTENTS
PREFACE
I. RABAT AND SALE
II. VOLUBILIS, MOULAY IDRISS AND MEKNEZ
III. FEZ
IV. MARRAKECH
V. HAREMS AND CEREMONIES
VI. GENERAL LYAUTEY’S WORK IN MOROCCO
VII. A SKETCH OF MOROCCAN HISTORY
VIII. NOTE ON MOROCCAN ARCHITECTURE
IX. BOOKS CONSULTED
INDEX
ILLUSTRATIONS
FEZ ELBALI FROM THE RAMPARTS
GENERAL VIEW FROM THE KASBAH OF THE OUDAYAS—RABAT
INTERIOR COURT OF THE MEDERSA OF THE OUDAYAS—RABAT
ENTRANCE OF THE MEDERSA—SALE
MARKET-PLACE OUTSIDE THE TOWN—SALE
CHELLA—RUINS OF MOSQUE—SALE
THE WESTERN PORTICO OF THE BASILICA OF ANTONIUS PIUS—VOLUBILIS
MOULAY IDRISS
THE MARKET-PLACE—MOULAY IDRISS
MARKET-PLACE ON THE DAY OF THE RITUAL DANCE OF THE HAMADCHAS—MOULAY IDRISS
THE MARKET-PLACE PROCESSION OF THE CONFRATERNITY OF THE HAMADCHAS—MOULAY IDRISS
GATE: “BAB-MANSOUR”—MEKNEZ
THE RUINS OF THE PALACE OF MOULAY-ISMAEL—MEKNEZ
FEZ ELDJID
A REED-ROOFED STREET—FEZ
THE NEDJARINE FOUNTAIN—FEZ
THE BAZAARS: A VIEW OF THE SOUK EL ATTARINE AND THE QUAISARYA—FEZ
THE “LITTLE GARDEN” IN BACKGROUND, PALACE OF THE BAHIA—MARRAKECH
THE GREAT COURT, PALACE OF THE BAHIA—MARRAKECH
APARTMENT OF THE GRAND VIZIER’S FAVORITE, PALACE OF THE BAHIA—MARRAKECH
A FONDAK—MARRAKECH
MAUSOLEUM OF THE SAADIAN SULTANS SHOWING THE TOMBS—MARRAKECH
THE SULTAN OF MOROCCO UNDER THE GREEN UMBRELLA
A CLAN OF MOUNTAINEERS AND THEIR CAID
THE SULTAN ENTERING MARRAKECH IN STATE
WOMEN WATCHING A PROCESSION FROM A ROOF
A STREET FOUNTAIN—MARRAKECH
GATE OF THE KASBAH OF THE OUDAYAS—RABAT
MEDERSA BOUANYANA—FEZ
THE PRAYING-CHAPEL IN THE MEDERSA EL ATTARINE—FEZ
INTERIOR COURT OF THE MEDERSA—SALE
THE GATE OF THE PORTUGUESE—MARRAKECH
MAP
THE PART OF MOROCCO VISITED BY MRS. WHARTON
I
RABAT AND SALE
I
LEAVING TANGIER
To step on board a steamer in a Spanish port, and three hours later to land in a country without a guide-book, is a sensation to rouse the hunger of the repletest sight-seer.
The sensation is attainable by any one who will take the trouble to row out into the harbour of Algeciras and scramble onto a little black boat headed across the straits. Hardly has the rock of Gibraltar turned to cloud when one’s foot is on the soil of an almost unknown Africa. Tangier, indeed, is in the guide-books; but, cuckoo-like, it has had to lays its eggs in strange nests, and the traveller who wants to find out about it must acquire a work dealing with some other country—Spain or Portugal or Algeria. There is no guide-book to Morocco, and no way of knowing, once one has left Tangier behind, where the long trail over the Rif is going to land one, in the sense understood by any one accustomed to European certainties. The air of the unforeseen blows on one from the roadless passes of the Atlas.
This feeling of adventure is heightened by the contrast between Tangier—cosmopolitan, frowsy, familiar Tangier, that every tourist has visited for the last forty years—and the vast unknown just beyond. One has met, of course, travellers who have been to Fez; but they have gone there on special missions, under escort, mysteriously, perhaps perilously; the expedition has seemed, till lately, a considerable affair. And when one opens the records of Moroccan travellers written within the last twenty years, how many, even of the most adventurous, are found to have gone beyond Fez? And what, to this day, do the names of Meknez and Marrakech, of Mogador, Saffi or Rabat, signify to any but a few students of political history, a few explorers and naturalists? Not till within the last year has Morocco been open to travel from Tangier to the Great Atlas, and from Moulay Idriss to the Atlantic. Three years ago Christians were being massacred in the streets of Sale, the pirate town across the river from Rabat, and two years ago no European had been allowed to enter the Sacred City of Moulay Idriss, the burial-place of the lawful descendant of Ali, founder of the Idrissite dynasty. Now, thanks to the energy and the imagination of one of the greatest of colonial administrators, the country, at least in the French zone, is as safe and open as the opposite shore of Spain. All that remains is to tell the traveller how to find his way about it.
Ten years ago there was not a wheeled vehicle in Morocco, now its thousands of miles of trail, and its hundreds of miles of firm French roads, are travelled by countless carts, omnibuses and motor-vehicles. There are light railways from Rabat to Fez in the west, and to a point about eighty-five kilometres from Marrakech in the south, and it is possible to say that within a year a regular railway system will connect eastern Morocco with western Algeria, and the ports of Tangier and Casablanca with the principal points of the interior.
What, then, prevents the tourist from instantly taking ship at Bordeaux or Algeciras and letting loose his motor on this new world? Only the temporary obstacles which the war has everywhere put in the way of travel. Till these are lifted it will hardly be possible to travel in Morocco except by favour of the Resident-General; but, normal conditions once restored, the country will be as accessible, from the straits of Gibraltar to the Great Atlas, as Algeria or Tunisia.
To see Morocco during the war was therefore to see it in the last phase of its curiously abrupt transition from remoteness and danger to security and accessibility; at a moment when its aspect and its customs were still almost unaffected by European influences, and when the “Christian” might taste the transient joy of wandering unmolested in cities of ancient mystery and hostility, whose inhabitants seemed hardly aware of his intrusion.
II
THE TRAIL TO EL-KSAR
With such opportunities ahead it was impossible, that brilliant morning of September, 1917, not to be off quickly from Tangier, impossible to do justice to the pale-blue town piled up within brown walls against the thickly-foliaged gardens of “the Mountain,” to the animation of its market-place and the secret beauties of its steep Arab streets. For Tangier swarms with people in European clothes, there are English, French and Spanish signs above its shops, and cab-stands in its squares; it belongs, as much as Algiers, to the familiar dog-eared world of travel—and there, beyond the last dip of “the Mountain,” lies the world of mystery, with the rosy dawn just breaking over it. The motor is at the door and we are off.
The so-called Spanish zone, which encloses internationalized Tangier in a wide circuit of territory, extends southward for a distance of about a hundred and fifteen kilometres. Consequently, when good roads traverse it, French Morocco will be reached in less than two hours by motor-travellers bound for the south. But for the present Spanish enterprise dies out after a few miles of macadam (as it does even between Madrid and Toledo), and the tourist is committed to the piste. These pistes—the old caravan-trails from the south—are more available to motors in Morocco than in southern Algeria and Tunisia, since they run mostly over soil which, though sandy in part, is bound together by a tough dwarf vegetation, and not over pure desert sand. This, however, is the utmost that can be said of the Spanish pistes. In the French protectorate constant efforts are made to keep the trails fit for wheeled traffic, but Spain shows no sense of a corresponding obligation.
After leaving the macadamized road which runs south from Tangier one seems to have embarked on a petrified ocean in a boat hardly equal to the adventure. Then, as one leaps and plunges over humps and ruts, down sheer banks into rivers, and up precipices into sand-pits, one gradually gains faith in one’s conveyance and in one’s spinal column; but both must be sound in every joint to resist the strain of the long miles to Arbaoua, the frontier post of the French protectorate.