can’t think exactly or the thought gets cut short by the
immense excitement o f his presence or a m emory o f anything
about him, any second o f remembering him and I’m flushed
and fevered; in delirium there’s no thought. At night the bars
are cool after the heat o f the African sun; the men are young
and hungry, lithe, they dance together frenetically, their arms
stretched across each other’s bodies as they make virile chorus
lines or drunken circles. M is the bartender. I sit in a dark
corner, a cool and pampered observer, drinking vermouth on
ice, red vermouth, and watching; watching M , watching the
men dance. Then sometimes he dances and they all leave the
floor to watch because he is the great dancer o f Crete, the
magnificent dancer, a legend o f grace and balance and speed.
Usually the young men sing in Greek along with the records
and dance showing off; before I was in love they sent over
drinks but now no one would dare. A great tension falls over
the room when sometimes one o f them tries. There have been
fist fights but I haven’t understood until after what they were
about. There was a tall blond boy, younger than M. M is short
and dark. I couldn’t keep my eyes o ff him and he took my
breath away. I feel what I feel and I do what I want and
everything shows in the heat coming o ff m y skin. There are no
lies in me; no language to be accountable in and also no lies. I
am always in action being alive even if I am sitting quietly in a
dark corner watching men dance. This room is not where I
live but it is my home at night. We usually leave a few hours
before dawn. The nightclub is a dark, square room. There is a
bar, some tables, records; almost never any women, occasional
tourists only. It is called The Dionysus. It is o ff a
small, square-like park in the center o f the city. The park is
overwhelm ingly green in the parched city and the vegetation
casts shadows even in the night so that if I come here alone it is
very dark and once a boy came up behind me and put his hand
between m y legs so fast that I barely understood what he had
done. Then he ran. M and the owner o f the club, N ikko, and
some other man ran out when they saw me standing there, not
coming in. I was so confused. They ran after him but didn’t
find him. I was relieved for him because they would have hit
him. Women don’t go out here but I do. Ma chere goes out.
I’ve never been afraid o f anything and I do what I want; I’m a
free human being, w hy would I apologize? I argue with m yself
about my rights because who else would listen. The few
foreign women who come here to live are all considered
whores because they go out and because they take men as
lovers, one, some, more. This means nothing to me. I’ve
always lived on m y own, in freedom, not bound by people’s
narrow minds or prejudices. It’s not different now. The Greek
women never go out and the Greek men don’t go home until
they are. very old men and ready to die. I would like to be with
a woman but a foreign woman is a mortal enemy here.
Sometimes in the bar M and I dance together. T hey play
Amerikan music for slow dancing— “ House o f the Rising
Sun , ” “ Heartbreak H otel. ” The songs make me want to cry
and we hold each other the w ay fire holds what it burns; and
everyone looks because you don’t often see people who have
to touch each other or they will die. It’s true with us; a simple
fact. I have no sense o f being a spectacle; only a sense o f being
the absolute center o f the world and what I feel is all the feeling
the world has in it, all o f it concentrated in me. Later we drive
into the country to a restaurant for dinner and to dance more,
heart to heart, earth scorched by wind, the African wind that
touches every rock and hidden place on this island. There are
two main streets in this old city. One goes down a steep old
hill to the sea, a sea that seems painted in light and color,
purple and aqua and a shining silver, mercury all bubbling in
an irridescent sunlight, and there is a bright, bright green in
the sea that cools down as night comes becoming somber,
stony, a hard, gem -like surface, m oving jade. The old Nazi
headquarters are down this old hill close to the sea. They keep
the building empty; it is considered foul, obscene. It is all
chained up, the great wrought iron doors with the great
swastika rusting and rotting and inside it is rubble. Piss on you
it says to the Nazis. The other main street crosses the hill at the
top. It crosses the whole city. The other streets in the city are
dirt paths or alleys made o f stones. N ikko owns the club. He
and M are friends. M is lit up from inside, radiant with light;
he is the sea’s only rival for radiance; is it Raphael who could
paint the sensuality o f his face, or is it Titian? The painter o f
this island is El Greco, born here, but there is no nightmare in
M ’s face, only a miracle o f perfect beauty, too much beauty so
that it can hurt to look at him and hurt more to turn away.
Nikko is taller than anyone else on Crete and they tease him in
the bar by saying he cannot be Cretan because he is so tall. The
jokes are told to me by pointing and extravagant hand gestures
and silly faces and laughing and broken syllables o f English.
Y ou can say a lot without words and make many jokes. N ikko
is dark with black hair and black eyes shaped a little like
almonds, an Oriental cast to his face, and a black mustache that
is big and wide and bushy; and his face is like an old
photograph, a sculpted Russian face staring out o f the
nineteenth century, a young Dostoevsky in Siberia, an exotic
Russian saint, without the suffering but with many secrets. I
often wonder if he is a spy but I don’t know why I think that or
who he would spy for. I am sometimes afraid that M is not safe
with him. M is a radical and these are dangerous times here.
There are riots in Athens and on Crete the government is not
popular. Cretans are famous for resistance and insurrection.
The mountains have sheltered native fighters from Nazis,
from Turks, but also from other Greeks. There was a civil war
here;
Greek communists
and leftists
were purged,
slaughtered; in the mountains o f Crete, fascists have never
won. The mountains mean freedom to the Cretans; as
Kazantzakis said, freedom or death. The government is afraid
o f Crete. These mountains have seen blood and death,
slaughter and fear, but also urgent and stubborn resistance, the
human who will not give in. It is the pride o f people here not to
give in. But N ikko is M ’s friend and he drives us to the