Perhaps to compensate, Limenos have painted their city the most astonishing hues, colors to banish the greyness and anxiety: sienna, burnt umber, cobalt, and the purest ultramarine, and shades the color of ice cream, soft pistachio, creamy peach, French vanilla, and cafe au lait.
The central square in every Peruvian town, and Lima is no exception, is called the Plaza de Armas. In Lima, the plaza is a striking yellow ochre broken only by the grey stone of the governor’s palace and the intricately carved wood casement windows on the buildings surrounding the square. And like every Plaza de Armas, it is a hive of activity, filled with ambulantes, people who come in from the shantytowns to hawk candy and drinks on the sidewalks; money changers with their calculators and wads of bills, giggling schoolgirls weighing themselves, for a small fee, on scales on the corner; street cleaners dressed head to toe in brilliant orange, stooping and sweeping in an almost compulsive rhythm—the hustle and bustle of everyday life in the city.
A large statue of the Spaniard Francisco Pizarro on horseback once graced the center of the square. Spain, its lust for gold and empire unsated by successful conquests in the more northern Americas, sent Pizarro to bring the mighty Inca Empire to its knees, a stroke of history that earned him his position of honor in the Plaza de Armas. As the saying goes, sic transit Gloria mundi: Pizarro’s horse’s rear faced the cathedral. The Church was not amused, and so Pizarro and his horse were relegated to a small side square just off one corner of the plaza. Now it is the inhabitants of the building that bears the conqueror’s name and the patrons of the cafe at street level who get to look up the backside of Pizarro’s horse.
I was in that cafe for what amounted to a job interview, unbelievable though that seemed to me. I was to meet someone by the name of Stephen Neal, archaeologist and former classmate of Lucas’s. I’d spoken to him briefly on the telephone, and we’d arranged to meet. He sounded pleasant enough on the phone, but I had no idea what he looked like. To facilitate our meeting, he’d told me he had fair hair, what was left of it, and a beard. I had been about to tell him I was a strawberry blonde when I caught myself. “Brown,” I’d told him, “my hair is brown.” Being someone else required, I found, eternal vigilance.
Who was Rebecca MacCrimmon? I wondered. Did she really exist? If she did, did she look like me, or at least like the person—pale skin almost transparent against the dark brown hair—that I had really seen for the first time, stared at length at, in the mirror of the tiny, run-down but clean hotel off the Plaza San Martin? If she was a real person, was she still alive, her passport and driver’s license taken like mine, or lost perhaps, in some Mexican adventure, then put to other uses? Or was she dead, her identity transferred to me after her demise? No stranger to adventure, I had never felt like this before, cut off from something so personal, so basic, as my name.
It was a disorienting experience in a way I cannot describe, and yet somehow oddly liberating. Rebecca didn’t have bills to pay, meetings to go to, and, more importantly, she didn’t have an ex-husband she still had rather ambivalent feelings about, who’d had the bad taste to open a shop right across the road from her. She wasn’t slowly going bankrupt, and best of all, neither she nor any of her friends were being investigated in a murder case, nor was she being pursued by a cold-blooded killer.
On the other hand, it did have its hazards. I’d assured the airline personnel that I had, indeed, packed my own bag and it had never left my sight, a statement that was patently untrue, and one that constituted a leap of faith in Lucas and his compatriots that left me breathless. What if a security guard asked me to describe its contents? I had no idea what it contained. I was nervous as I cleared immigration on my way out of Mexico, then again as I entered Peru. Would they catch me with some seemingly innocuous question about my life? Even my clothes felt as if they would betray me, although the jeans and the denim shirt fit just fine.
On the plane, I sat, eyes squeezed tightly shut, my hands gripping the seat arms, reciting over and over in my mind, like some feverish mantra, my new name, my birth date, my home. I pretended to sleep, too nervous to eat, and unwilling to hold a conversation with my seatmate, lest I betray myself in some way. When, as the plane began its descent into Lima, the flight attendant touched my arm, calling me Senora MacCrimmon and handing me an envelope, my heart leapt into my mouth.
But then there I was in my little hotel room, clean and tidy but threadbare. I circled the bed looking at the suitcase which lay there unopened, like someone else’s abandoned bag turning endlessly on an otherwise empty baggage carousel. Inside was the new me: another pair of jeans, two pairs of khaki mid-thigh length shorts, an Indian cotton skirt in blacks, aquas, and rose, a turquoise Indian cotton blouse to go with it, a light cotton sweater, weatherproof jacket, and a pile of T-shirts. There was some utilitarian cotton underwear, including socks, a long T-shirt that would double as a nightie, a pair of sandals, running shoes, and work boots. I regarded the shoes and boots with unease. In my experience, shoes generally fall into one of three categories: almost comfortable, uncomfortable, and excruciating. At home there was a collection of footwear that would give Imelda Marcos pause, testament to an almost obsessive pursuit of the perfectly comfortable pair of shoes. I tried on the sandals and running shoes: They fell into the almost comfortable category, much to my relief. The boots I would leave until later.
Rebecca MacCrimmon was a bit older than I, forty-five to be precise, although with what I’d been through in the past few days, looking older than I was did not seem an insurmountable problem. She was, I decided, a bit of a hippy at heart, a child of the sixties who had not succumbed to the acquisitiveness and self-absorption that had overwhelmed many of our generation. Her T-shirts supported various causes: The first urged one and all to save the rain forest; another, and this one brought a smile to my face, proclaimed archaeologists to be better lovers; the third asked the world to save the whales. I held the whale T-shirt up to me. It was clear my first purchase would be a new shirt. No one with my generous proportions, I decided, should ever have to wear a picture of a whale.
Money was a problem, of course. I couldn’t be running out to replace my wardrobe. I had some cash, the equivalent of about $400, but I had no credit cards, the absence of which I felt keenly. Credit cards, I decided, had become my personal security blanket. I would have to be very careful with money, that was certain, but I would buy a new shirt nonetheless. Because, as it turned out, I had job prospects.
The letter I’d received on the plane told me that my application to work at an archaeological site in northern Peru was being seriously considered, and that I was to contact Dr. Stephen Neal, codirector of the project, on my arrival in Lima. The letter informed me that if I were the successful candidate, I would be expected to report for duty on August 28, two days hence. The letter said that my lodging and meals would be covered, but that unfortunately there were no funds available to pay a salary, however small. As compensation, however, there was the privilege of working with someone of the caliber of the other co-director, Dr. Hilda Schwengen, whoever that was. The signature on the letter was that of Stephen Neal, and a postscript added, much to my relief, that the successful candidate would also receive transportation to the site from Lima.