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Near St. Neot’s I was tempted to fork northeast to my railway house at Upper Mayhem. Once in the fortress of warmth and plenty it would close around and never let go. Dismal my favourite and only dog was there, as was Clegg the elderly handyman who kept the place going. The freezer was stacked with food, the outside shed packed with fuel, and a made up bed was waiting for me to sink into with no will to get out. I scoffed the notion away, heaven being no life for a grown man.

I switched off the jungle music from Radio Deadhead, and a glance at fields and coppices to either side — a sleeve of spring green, and splashes of blossoming Queen Anne’s lace — set me longing to be out of the car and walking among the perfume of mangel wurzels or early potatoes, fainting with pleasure at sprouting wheat and upstart refreshing hedges, sniffing bay rose and white daisies.

The reality was I would get stung by nettles, clawed at by brambles, drenched by rain (which was just beginning, but it had rained yesterday), my soles so jacked up with mud on crossing a field that after walking fifty yards I’d be on stilts. I was better off in the car.

Distances signposted up the Great North Road were laid out in penny packets of ten or twenty miles, as if the fact that it led to Edinburgh (or even Doncaster) was a state secret which foreigners weren’t to know about. Whoever arranged them was afraid again of a German invasion, or wanted tourists sleeping their nights to Scotland in rathole hotels that charged twice as much as at far better places in France or Spain. It made me laugh that on coming the other way London would be signposted four hundred miles off, as if the policy was to get rid of tourists who by now had been robbed of their last penny. Dover might even be indicated from Inverness, though I’ve never been that far to find out.

A plastic bag flapped by the roadside like a crow in its final agony. Speed cut the scene short. A mile-long line of lorries on the inner lane set me charging to get clear, nowhere to go when a car behind flashed me to move in, but I let him overtake soonest possible, his face as enraged as one of Conrad’s duellists in the film. I’d read the story, and much else, under the guidance of Frances, more than in my life before, which was supposed to make me a better person, she said, though whether it did I’ll never know.

The mad driver was one of Moggerhanger’s footpads, Kenny Dukes, and I wondered where he was going at such a spate, as I overtook a tinker’s short arsed pick-up with smoking exhaust, loaded with old bathtubs and gas stoves. A big sleek rat jumped off it onto the green verge, as if sensing the vehicle would drop to bits in the next five minutes. I took it easy, and lost Kenny who was doing a ton in the distance. Having driven enough miles in my life to get to the moon and back I wanted to stay alive.

Moonshine Cross was a convenient place to stop for a piss, petrol, and another cigar. In spite of Frances’s tearful demolition of my character she had packed a plastic bag of fruit and sandwiches, and filled two flasks with coffee. She may have come to dislike me — but only for the time being, I hoped — but didn’t want me to die of stomach cramps at some arterial lane eatery.

In the toilets an old chap of over seventy in a thorn cloth three-piece suit and knitted tie, shining brown boots, and watchchain, was pumping packets of condoms out of a machine, his demented expression daring it to run out, in which case he would come back from his car with a cold chisel and give it what-for.

He was long jawed, had on a nicky brown hat with a darker brown band around the rim, and heavy spectacles. His teeth were obviously false, as he opened his mouth and fixed another pound in the slot. “I can’t wait all day till the place is empty and there’s nobody to see me, can I?” He saw my gaze of wonder, if not admiration. “I want my supplies, don’t I, son? I can’t afford to be embarrassed at my age, can I?”

“You could go to a chemist’s and get them without all this effort.” I was horrified at another rubber tree in Malaya getting sucked white. “It would be more discreet.”

He stuffed the supplies into his pocket. “It’s all very well for you to say so, but there’s only one chemist in our little town, and my wife goes into it for all her medicines. She might see me. Or there might be talk, if one of the neighbours did. I wasn’t born yesterday, was I?”

I didn’t want to speculate on how many yesterdays ago he had been born, yet I was taken by his brash confidence as I stood at the urinal for a splash at Shanks’s adamant. “Isn’t your girlfriend on the pill?”

Two other men came in, so he said: “Let’s go outside, and I’ll tell you. We stood outside and he gripped me by the elbow. “I’m glad you enquired. She did go on it for a while, but she didn’t like the side effects, though going in raw was a treat for me, just like when I was a lad.”

Over the fence was a field of placid Friesian cows, a sight making me want to start loving old England again. I didn’t like the thought of the poor beasts flying around the grassland in terror should my companion of the road run among them with a trail of cheese and onion condoms spraying out of his pockets. A lizard tongue went over his lips, as if he followed my thoughts. “She’s a vegetarian as well, though that doesn’t bother me.”

“Is she young?”

“She’s nineteen, if you call that young, these days. Her name’s Betty.”

It’s no use denying my interest in his naive revelations. “I still can’t see why you’ll need all those rubbers.”

“Can’t you?” He scanned the parking lot, as if he had forgotten in which row he’d left his car, or was fearful that someone had hotwired it and driven away. “It’s better to have too many than too few, that’s all I know. I haven’t seen her for a couple of months.”

“Why not sooner?”

“Her husband isn’t away all the time.”

“She’s married, at nineteen?”

“I appreciate that you’re very inquisitive, because I am as well. The inquisitive shall inherit the earth, eh?” He sent a sharp elbow at my ribs, and I was afraid to give him one back in case he turned out to be nothing more than brown paper and sawdust. “She got married at sixteen, then had another child to prove the first was no accident. So she got a council house. Her mother lives with her, and looks after the kids. They take it in turns doing it, because I have a go at the mother as well whenever I can. She’s not much above thirty, after all. Putting you in the picture, am I?”

Too right he was. A man of his age, and he had a nineteen-year-old married woman with two kids hot for him, and access to her mother. What was the country coming to? It was enough to make me sweat, not to say envious.

I can’t think why, but people often confided their foibles to me, and told stories with little if any encouragement, which was good when it entertained me, and bad when it bored me. And they still do it, perhaps deceived by the honest face I’m forced to wear so as to hide the seething villainy within. Or I catch them at the point when, if they don’t talk about what’s worrying them, they’ll either burst into flames or go out and do a murder. Maybe so many people opened their mouths to me as if I were a ghost, assuming that what information they spilled would not be passed on. If they had known of my relationship to the novelist Gilbert Blaskin they would have held back. Or they would have been even more forthcoming.

Maybe in spite of this old man’s lambent intentions he somehow sensed he had only half an hour to live, and I would see his burnt-out car a few miles up the road. I hoped not. “You’re looking a bit worried,” he said.