katsup – the gap between the fabric in the middle of the tent roof, which allows the smoke from the fire to escape
kirchi – tube of brightly coloured, knitted fabric used as a hat or a face-covering in winter
kirok – sash worn around the tsarer
korlo – prayer wheel
langwha – washing basin
laptse – holy mountain
long had – 'wind horses', small paper squares with pictures of horses printed on them which carry blessings when thrown to the wind
lu/luma – male and female demi-gods of the subterranean world; serpent spirits of earth and water
mandala – the 'Wheel of Life' – a symmetrical picture made from coloured sand. The simplest mandala is an empty circle and the centre represents 'emptiness', the pure awareness and limitless space of the Buddha mind.
marcho – blood offering
merdach – spun sheep's wool
momos – traditional dish of steamed parcels of meat
NamNyeur – 'Sky Man' or ancient man
namma – bride or daughter-in-law
ndashung – wooden spear, about six metres high, with a brightly painted flight for pegging the earth at spiritual offering sites
nyen – sky gods, of a warrior-like nature, who live on the mountain peaks
Nyon Nyi – a religious ritual dedicated to fasting, contemplation, prayer and self-purification
phurba – ritual dagger
piju – Chinese word for beer
ratcho – pipe
rawa – head ornament sewn into pubescent girls' hair, made of heavily embroidered silk fabric, silver and precious stones
rungpizz – ribbon rice noodles, served cold with garlic, vinegar, chilli and tofu – favourite dish of the nomad women
samker – broth of tsampa, salt, and milk with ginger or aniseed
seeto – wicker basket
shabala – meat fritters
shangtee – traditional Tibetan boots with pointed upturned toes, made from felt or leather and usually only worn by old people
shermo – girl
shinlab – literally 'wave of grace': the feeling experienced after receiving the Buddha's blessing
shogshung – 'Staff of Life' – the main spear which marks the site of mountain worship
shugndot – knotted protection cord given by a lama, which is worn around the neck
shyee – child
sockwa – shoulder blade
sonnam – religious merit
tanthuk – soup of meat and small squares of cooked dough
thanka – religious painting, usually on a silk scroll and depicting the Buddha
thib – small brass cups for filling with water as an altar offering
tolla – three-wheeled tractor-like vehicle, which is sometimes hired along with a Chinese driver, to transport the nomads to the grassland
tranger – prayer beads
tsa tsa – small triangular clay icons, a few inches high, formed from a bronze mould and sun-dried, depicting the Buddha
tsampa – ground barley flour
tsarer – traditional Tibetan dress resembling a large wrap-around cloth coat with woven or leopard-skin trim and embroidered detailing
tsokwa – thick sheepskin tsarer with leopardskin collar, worn especially in winter
tuckpa – soup or rice noodles and meat
tugh – colourful woven hem of tsarer
turnkor – churn
tzorgin – yak/ cow half-breed
yarsa gunba – grass worm – this particular phenomenon is a worm which grows fungus on its head and dies in autumn. The nomads say the worm turns into grass. It is highly prized by the Chinese for its medicinal properties and the nomads collect them in the grassland to sell.
yucka – beautiful
Illustrations
All photographs from the author’s collection. Chapter illustrations by the author.
The family tent
Tsedup mother, Annay Labko
Tsedup father, Amnye Karko
View of Machu from the Wild Yak range
Ama-lo-lun, Azjung (the Sky Man) and Rhanjer’s son, Tinlee
Tsedup’s brother, Cumchok Jamtso seated at the centre of a ceremony
A chorten at Labrang monastery.
Tsedup’s youngest brother, Gorbo
Kate’s num
Kate’s dad and boys from the tribe
View of Jerko’s tent
Nawang, Tsedup and Tsedo’s children – Sanjay, Dickir Che, Ziggy and Kate
Kate, Sirmo and Shermo Donker. Me, Sirmo and Shermo pose for a picture before our trip to town.
Milking a yak
Women from Kate’s tribe
Kate, Chloё and Ells on top of the holy mountain.
Tibetan weaving techniques
Dickir Che and Ziggy
Friend Tseqwar, Tsedup’s brother, Tsedo, friend Wharden, Tsedup’s eldest brother, Rhanjer and younger brother, Gondo
Gondo’s son, Dorlo
Tsering Samdup outside the tiger’s lair at Lhamo
Rhanjer’s son, Samlo
Tsedup in winter tsokwa
Gondo’s wife, Tseten, Gondo, Tamba and friend
Tsedup’s sister, Dombie
Dombie’s son Yeshe
Dombie’s daughter Dawa with Dickir Che
Girls in tsokwas – in front, Rhanjer’s girls, Lhamo Tsering and Rinchenchet with eldest daughter, Gurra, center back
Tselo in the grassland
Dickier Che and Rinchenchet knitting
Sirmo’s son, Tsering Dhondup
Kate wearing the rings that Annay gave her
Our son, Gonbochab
