Calais is locally pronounced “CAL-us” and believe me a callous is exactly what it is—a hard, corny little spot on the right elbow of America. Especially when you have an engineless uninsured automobile and a maxed-out Visa card and only $226 in your billfold and no friends or relations back home who can afford to send you more than a cheery hello.
I left my beloved Mercury tilted up on the leafy embankment by the side of US Route 1 South and walked into town. I never cared a whole lot for walking, mainly because my weight has kind of edged up a little since I left the Army in ’86, due to a pathological lack of restraint when it comes to filé gumbo and Cajun spiced chicken with lots of crunchy bits and mustard-barbecued spare ribs and Key lime pies. My landlady Rita Personage says that when she first saw me she thought that Orson Welles had risen from the dead, and I must say I do have quite a line in flappy white double-breasted sport coats, not to mention a few wide-brimmed white hats, though not all in prime condition since I lost my job with the Louisiana Restaurant Association which was a heinous political fix involving some of the shadier elements in the East Baton Rouge catering community and also possibly the fact that I was on the less balletic side of 289 pounds.
It was a piercing bright day. The sky was blue like ink and the trees were all turning gold and red and crispy brown. Calais is one of those neat New England towns with white clapboard houses and churches with spires and cheery people waving to each other as they drive up and down the streets at 2 1/2 mph.
By the time I reached North and Main I was sweating like a cheese and severely in need of a beer. There was a whip, whip, whoop behind me and it was a police patrol car. I stopped and the officer put down his window. He had mirror sunglasses and a sandy moustache that looked as if he kept his nailbrush on his upper lip. And freckles. You know the type.
“Wasn’t speeding, was I, officer?”
He took off his sunglasses. He didn’t smile. He didn’t even blink. He said, “You look like a man with a problem, sir.”
“I know. I’ve been on Redu-Quick for over six months now and I haven’t lost a pound.”
That really cracked him up, not. “You in need of some assistance?” he asked me.
“Well, my car suffered a minor mechanical fault a ways back there and I was going into town to see if I could get anybody to fix it.”
“That your clapped-out saddle-bronze Marquis out on Route One?”
“That’s the one. Nothing that a few minutes in the crusher couldn’t solve.”
“Want to show me some ID?”
“Sure.” I handed him my driver’s license and my identity card from the restaurant association. He peered at them, and for some reason actually sniffed them.
“John Henry Dauphin, Choctaw Drive, East Baton Rouge. You’re a long way from home, Mr. Dauphin.”
“I’ve just buried one of my old Army buddies up in Presque Isle.”
“And you drove all the way up here?”
“Sure, it’s only two thousand three hundred and seven miles. It’s a pretty fascinating drive, if you don’t have any drying paint that needs watching.”
“Louisiana Restaurant Association … that’s who you work for?”
“That’s right,” I lied. Well, he didn’t have to know that I was out of a job. “I’m a restaurant hygiene consultant. Hey—bet you never guessed that I was in the food business.”
“Okay … the best thing you can do is call into Lyle’s Autos down at the other end of Main Street, get your vehicle towed off the highway as soon as possible. If you require a place to stay I can recommend the Calais Motor Inn.”
“Thank you. I may stay for a while. Looks like a nice town. Very … well-swept.”
“It is,” he said, as if he were warning me to make sure that it stayed that way. He handed back my ID and drove off at the mandatory snail’s pace.
Lyle’s Autos was actually run by a stocky man called Nils Guttormsen. He had a gray crewcut and a permanently surprised face like a chipmunk going through the sound barrier backward. He charged me a mere $65 for towing my car into his workshop, which was only slightly more than a quarter of everything I had in the world, and he estimated that he could put the engine back into it for less than $785, which was about $784 more than it was actually worth.
“How long will it take, Nils?”
“Well, John, you need it urgent?”
“Not really, Nils … I thought I might stick around town for a while. So—you know—why don’t you take your own sweet time?”
“Okay, John. I have to get transmission parts from Bangor. I could have it ready, say Tuesday?”
“Good deal, Nils. Take longer if you want. Make it the Tuesday after next. Or even the Tuesday after that.”
“You’ll be wanting a car while I’m working on yours, John.”
“Will I, Nils? No, I don’t think so. I could use some exercise, believe me.”
“It’s entirely up to you, John. But I’ve got a couple of nifty Toyotas to rent if you change your mind. They look small but there’s plenty of room in them. Big enough to carry a sofa.”
“Thanks for the compliment, Nils.”
* * *
I hefted my battered old suitcase to the Calais Motor Inn, changing hands every few yards all the way down Main Street. Fortunately the desk accepted my Visa impression without even the hint of hysterical laughter. The Calais Motor Inn was a plain, comfortable motel, with plaid carpets and a shiny bar with tinkly music where I did justice to three bottles of chilled Molson’s and a ham-and-Swiss-cheese triple-decker sandwich on rye with coleslaw and straw fried potatoes, and two helpings of cookie crunch ice-cream to keep my energy levels up.
The waitress was a pretty snubby-nose woman with cropped blonde hair and a kind of a Swedish look about her.
“Had enough?” she asked me.
“Enough of what? Cookie crunch ice cream or Calais in general?”
“My name’s Velma,” she said.
“John,” I replied, and bobbed up from my leatherette seat to shake her hand.
“Just passing through, John?” she asked me.
“I don’t know, Velma … I was thinking of sticking around for a while. Where would somebody like me find themselves a job? And don’t say the circus.”
“Is that what you do, John?” she asked me.
“What do you mean, Velma?”
“Make jokes about yourself before anybody gets them in?”
“Of course not. Didn’t you know that all fat guys have to be funny by federal statute? No, I’m a realist. I know what my relationship is with food and I’ve learned to live with it.”
“You’re a good-looking guy, John, you know that?”
“You can’t fool me, Velma. All fat people look the same. If fat people could run faster, they’d all be bank robbers, because nobody can tell them apart.”
“Well, John, if you want a job you can try the want ads in the local paper, The Quoddy Whirlpool.”
“The what?”
“The bay here is called the Passamaquoddy, and out by Eastport we’ve got the Old Sow Whirlpool, which is the biggest whirlpool in the Western hemisphere.”
“I see. Thanks for the warning.”
“You should take a drive around the Quoddy Loop … it’s beautiful. Fishing quays, lighthouses, lakes. Some good restaurants, too.”
“My car’s in the shop right now, Velma. Nothing too serious. Engine fell out.”
“You’re welcome to borrow mine, John. It’s only a Volkswagen but I don’t hardly ever use it.”
I looked up at her and narrowed my eyes. Down in Baton Rouge the folks slide around on a snail’s trail of courtesy and Southern charm, but I can’t imagine any one of them offering a total stranger the use of their car, especially a total stranger who was liable to ruin the suspension just by sitting in the driver’s seat.