Relief printing lends itself particularly to a bold conception of design, expressed more in areas than lines. This varies, however, depending on the material used: metal allows more intricate detail than wood, for example. Woodcut
Woodcut, which appeared in the 8th century in the East and in the early 15th century in the West, is the earliest known relief-printing method. In this method, the design is first either painted directly onto the wood block or pasted on it. Then the surface of the wood is cut away around the design. For fine details and outlines the knife is used; larger areas are removed with gouges. The depth of the relief depends on the design: open areas must be cut deeper than the fine details so that the roller will not deposit ink in these areas. Although woodcuts are generally conceived in bold lines, or large areas, tonal variations can be achieved with textures, a variety of marks made with gouges, chisels, or knives. In contemporary woodcuts many other methods, such as scraping, scratching, and hammering, are also used to create interesting textures.
Originally, woodcut was a facsimile process; i.e., the cutting was a reproduction of a finished design. With most contemporary woodcuts, however, the artist creates his design in the process of cutting.
As wood is a natural material, its structure varies enormously and this exercises a strong influence on the cutting. Wood blocks are cut plankwise. The woods most often used are pear, rose, pine, apple, and beech. The old masters preferred fine-grained hardwoods because they allow finer detail work than softwoods, but modern printmakers value the coarse grain of softwoods and often incorporate it into the design.
The printing of woodcuts is a relatively simple process because it does not require great pressure. Although presses are used, even hand rubbing with a wooden spoon can produce a good print. The ink used to print woodcuts must be fairly solid and sticky, so that it lies on the surface without flowing into the hollows. The printing ink can be deposited on the relief either with dabbers or with rollers. Japanese rice or mulberry papers are particularly suitable for woodcuts because they make rich prints without heavy pressure. Colour woodcut
The standard procedure for making a woodcut with two or more colours is to cut a separate block for each colour. If the colour areas are distinctly separated and the block is large, one block can be used for more than one colour. All blocks must be the same size to assure that in the finished print the colours will appear in their proper relation to one another, that is, properly registered.
The first, the key block, is generally the one that contains most of the structural or descriptive elements of the design, thus serving as a guide for the disposition of the other colours. After the key block is finished and printed, the print is transferred to the second block. This procedure is repeated until all of the blocks are finished.
The registering system depends on the method of printing used. On a press the registering presents no problem: the wood block is locked into position and the uniformly cut paper is automatically fed into the proper position by the press. For hand rubbing, several registering methods can be used. One method uses a mitred corner nailed to a table or special board. A sheet of paper is attached to one side of this corner, after which the wood block is placed securely in position and the print is made. Once the first colour has been printed, the paper is folded back and the first block is replaced with the second, and so on.
In woodcut colour printing, the artist must consider whether he can print wet on wet or whether the print should dry before it is overprinted. Usually a second colour can be printed immediately but, if the ink deposit is heavy, the print will have to dry before additional colours can be printed. This problem arises mainly with oil colours, which dry more slowly than water-base colours. When using oil paints, the artist has to understand how variations in viscosity affect the overprinting of colours.
Movable small blocks have also come to be used by a number of printmakers. These involve some planning in order to print them in register with the large blocks. The easiest way is to put a light cardboard that is exactly the size of the main block (the key block) in position. Once the small blocks are registered, their location can be marked on the cardboard. Then the small blocks can be glued down to the cardboard in order to avoid the danger of shifting.
The conception and technique of the Japanese colour woodcut was totally different from that of the European woodcut. Except for chiaroscuro prints, no real colour woodcut existed in Europe before the 19th century. In the West, the woodcut was primarily a reproductive facsimile process: usually, the artist made a completed drawing that was copied by the cutter. The Japanese print, on the other hand, was the result of intricate, perfectly coordinated effort by the designing artist, the cutter, and the printer. Instead of painting a complete picture to be copied, the artist furnished a separate drawing for each colour. The engraver or cutter pasted each drawing on a wood block and cut away the white (negative) part. In this process the drawing was destroyed. Printing started only after all of the blocks had been cut. As the Japanese used water-base colours, often blending tones, printing itself was a very delicate and crucial operation, requiring perfect coordination and speed. Only after the completion of this process could the artist see the total image. Wood engraving
Wood engraving is a variation of woodcut. The main difference is that, for wood engraving, the block—usually pear, apple, cherry, sycamore, or beech—is cut cross-grained rather than plankwise; on the end-grain block the artist can thus cut freely in any direction, allowing him to do much more intricate work with much finer tools. The image is created by fine white lines and textures. On most wood engravings, the whites appear as the positive image against a dominant black. The blocks are usually cut at the same height as printing type so that they can be printed on a press. Invented in the 18th century, wood engraving was primarily used by illustrators. Linoleum cut
Since linoleum is easy to cut and does not have a grain, the linoleum cut often is used to introduce children to printmaking. The process was held in low esteem until, in the 1950s, Pablo Picasso made a series of brilliant colour linoleum cuts.
The printing of linoleum cuts is similar to the printing of woodcuts or wood engravings. They can be printed by hand rubbing or, properly mounted, can be printed on a press. The colour printing process follows the woodcut principles. Metal cut
At times artists have used soft metals, such as lead or zinc, to make prints that are similar to woodcuts or wood engravings. In the 19th century, lead cuts were often used for newspaper illustrations. The distinguished Mexican artist José Guadalupe Posada, for example, used lead frequently for his prints. Lead was used primarily because it was inexpensive and easy to work. Because metal cuts were printed like woodcuts or wood engravings, it is often difficult to tell from the print which material was used. Cardboard (paper) cut
Elementary school children are often introduced to printmaking by making cardboard cuts, and sophisticated artists use the same material to print complex abstract images. Cardboard and paper are not only inexpensive, readily available, and workable with simple tools but, when properly prepared, have also proved to be remarkably durable. Cardboard cuts can be made either by building up or cutting out. In the first process, cutout pieces are glued to a support. When the plate is finished, it is coated with a plastic varnish to make sure the surface is tough and nonabsorbent. In the cutting-out method a heavy laminated cardboard is used, and the cutout sections are simply peeled off to the desired depth. When finished, the cut is varnished. The printing of cardboard plates follows the same principle as woodcuts or linoleum cuts. Relief etching