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PRINCE AND PRINCESS D.85

The curiosity which I feel to see Russia, and the admiration with which the spirit of order that must govern the administration of so vast a state in-spires me, does not prevent my judging impartially of the policy of its government. The domination of Russia when confining itself to diplomatic efforts, without proceeding to actual conquest, appears to me that which is most to be dreaded by the world. There is much misapprehension as regards the part which this state would play in Europe. In accordance with its constitutional character, it would represent the principle of order, but influenced by the character of its rulers, it# seeks to propagate tyranny under pretext of remedying anarchy; as though arbitrary power could remedy any evil! It is the elements of moral principle that this nation lacks : with its military habits, and its recollections of invasions it is still occupied with notions of wars of conquest, the most brutal of all wars, whereas the struggles of France and the other western nations will henceforth assume the character of wars of propagandism.

The number of passengers whom I have Mien in with on board the Nicholas I. is fortunately few.

There is a young princess Daccompanying her

husband on his return to St. Petersburg, a charming person, in appearance quite the heroine of a Scottish romance.

This amiable couple, accompanied also by the brother of the princess, have been passing several months in Silesia, subjecting themselves to the treatment of the famous cold water remedy. It is more than a remedy, it is a sacrament: it is medical baptism.

In the fervour of their faith, the prince and prin-

86THE COLD WATER CURE.

cess entertained us with wonderful results obtained by this mode of cure. The discovery is due to a peasant, who professes to be superior to all the doctors in the world, and justifies his pretensions by his works. He believes in himself; this example communicates itself to others; and many disciples in the new apostle are made whole by their faith. Crowds of strangers from all countries resort to Gräffenberg, where all diseases are treated except those of the chest. The patient is subjected to the pumping system, (ice-cold water being employed,) and then wrapped for five or six hours in flannel. No complaint, said the prince, eould· stand the perspiration which this treatment produces.

" No complaint, and no individual," I remarked.

" You are mistaken," replied the prince, with the zeal of anew convert; ¢¢ among a multitude, there are very few who have died at Gräffenberg. Princes and princesses fix themselves near to the new saviour, and after having tried his remedy, the love of water becomes a passion."

Here prince Dlooked at his watch, and called

a servant. The man came with a large pitcher of cold water in his hand, and poiu`ed it over his master's body between the waistcoat and the shirt. I could scarcely believe my eyes.

The prince continued the conversation without noticing my astonishment.

" The father of the reigning Due de Nassau arrived at Gräffenberg entirely deprived of the use of his limbs ; the water has greatly restored him ; but as he aspires to a perfect cure, it is uncertain when he leaves. No one knows on arriving at

THE COLD WATER CURE,

87

Gräffenberg how long he will remain ; the duration of the treatment depends on the complaint and the temperament of the individual; besides one cannot calculate on the influence of a passion, and this mode of using water becomes a passion with some people, who continue, indefinitely, to Hnger near the source of then supreme felicity."

Prince, in listening to your account, I am ready to believe in these wonderful restilts; but when I reflect, I must still doubt their efficacy. Such apparent cures have often ill consequences; perspirations so violent decompose the blood, and often change gout into dropsy."

" I am so persuaded of the efficacy of the cold water treatment," replied the prince, "that I am goiii£; to form near to me an establishment similar to that of Gräffenberg."

The Slavonians, thought I to myself, have a mania for other things besides cold water, namely, a general passion for novelties. The thoughts of this imitative people exercise themselves with the inventions of others.

Besides the personages already mentioned, there was yet another Russian princess on board our vessel.

This lady, the princess L, was a most agreeable

person in society : our evenings passed delightfully in listening to Russian airs, which she sang with pleasing exeeiition, and which were quite new to me.

The princess Dtook parts with her, and even

sometimes accompanied the airs with a few graceful steps of some Cossack dance. These national exhibitions and impromptu concerts agreeably suspended our conversations, and made the hours pass like moments.

88 GOOD MANNERS OF ТПЕ HIGHER ORDERS.

True models of good taste and of sociable manners are only to be found in aristocratic lands. There, none think of «nvincc themselves those comme il faut airs which spoil society in places infested by parvenus. In aristocratic circles, each member feels himself in his proper place, all are accustomed to the same society, and even where there is no sympathy, there is an intimacy that produces ease and confidence. The parties understand the slightest allusions that occur in conversation ; each recognises his own manner of thinking in the language of the rest; all so dispose themselves towards each other as though expecting to pass through life in company; and travellers destined to remain together for a length of time understand each other better than those who meet for only an hour. From this necessary harmony springs general politeness, which is not, however, unvaried in its aspect, A delicate shading still marks the diversity of minds ; and elegance of discourse embellishes all that is said, without doing injury to anything: for the truth of sentiments loses nothing by the sacrifices which delicacy of expression requires. Thus, thanks to the security which is established in all exclusive society, constraint disappears, and conversation throws off the coarseness without losing the charm of freedom.

Formerly, in France, every class of citizens could enjoy this advantage. There are many causes, into which I shall not here enter, that have deprived us of it; above all others is the improper mixing of the men of all classes.

These men congregate to gratify their vanity, instead of meeting for pleasure. Since society has

Ï`KËNCHMAN OF THE MIDDLE CLASSES. 89

been thus thrown open, freedom has vanished from it altogether, and easy manners are no longer known in France. English stiffness and gravity have taken their place : these are indispensable weapons in a mixed society. But the English, in learning to make use of them, have at least sacrificed nothing, whereas we have lost all those embellishments which constituted the charm of life. A man who believes, or wishes to have it believed, that he belongs to good society because he has access to such or such a salon cannot be an agreeable companion. Real refinement is a thing good in itself; copied refinement is like all other affectation, evil.

Our new society is founded on ideas of democratic equality, and these ideas have brought ennui in the place of our former pleasures. It is not an extensive circle of acquaintance which renders society agreeable, it is to know well those whom you have chosen, Society is only a means, of which the end is intimacy.