The principal one was the feeling that my views were daily modified by the examination to which I subjected a state of society absolutely new to me. It struck me that in speaking the truth of Russia, I should be doing something bold and noveclass="underline" hitherto, fear and interest have dictated exaggerated eulogies; hatred has also published calumnies: I am not afraid of making wreck either on the one rock or the other.
I went to Russia to seek for arguments against re-presentative government, I return a partisan of constitutions. A mixed government is not the most favourable to action; but in their old age, nations have less need of acting: this government is the one
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which most aids production, and which procures to man the greatest amount of prosperity ; it is, above all, the one which imparts the highest activity to mind within the sphere of practical ideas: in short, it renders the citizen independent, not by the elevation of sentiments, but by the operation of laws; assuredly these are great compensations for great disadvantages.
As I gradually became acquainted with the tremendous and singular government, regulated, or I might say founded, by Peter I., I became aware of the importance of the mission whieh chance had entrusted to me.
The extreme curiosity with which my work inspired the Russians, who were evidently rendered unquiet by the reserve of my language, first led me to think, that I had more power than I previously attributed to myself; I therefore became attentive and prudent, for I was not long in discovering the danger to which my sincerity might expose me. Not daring to send my letters by post, I preserved them all, and kept them concealed with extreme care; so that on my return to France, my journey was written, and in my own hands. Nevertheless, I have hesitated to publish it for three years: this is the time which I have needed to reconcile, in the secret of my conscience, what I believed to be the conflicting claims of gratitude and of truth! The latter at last prevails, because it appears to me to be truth of a nature that will interest my country. I cannot forget that, above all else, I write for France, and I hold it my duty to reveal to her use-ail and important facts.
I consider myself competent and authorised to
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judge, even severely if my conscience urges me, a country where I have friends, to analyse, without descending into offensive personalities, the character of public men, to quote the words of political persons, to commence with those of the highest personage in the state, to recount their actions, and to carry out to the last stage of inquiry the reflections which these examinations may suggest; "provided, however, that in capriciously pursuing the course of my ideas, I do not give them to others except for just the worth that they have in my own eyes: this, it appears to me, is all that constitutes the probity of an author.
But in thus yielding to duty, I have respected, at least I hope so, all the rules of social propriety ; for [ maintain that there is a proper manner of expressing severe truths: this manner consists in speaking only upon conviction, whilst repelling the suggestions of vanity.
Besides, having seen much to admire in Russia, I have been able to mingle many praises in my descriptions.
The Russians will not be satisfied ; when was self-love ever known to be ? And yet no one has ever been struck more than I, by the greatness and political importance of their nation. The high destinies of these people, these last comers upon the old theatre of the world, engaged my mind during the whole time of my stay among them. The Russians, viewed as a body, appeared to me as being great, even in their most shocking vices; viewed as individuals, I considered them amiable. In the character of the common people I found much to interest: these
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flattering truths ought, I think, to compensate for others less agreeable. But, hitherto, the Russians have been treated as spoiled children by the greater number of travellers.
If the discordances that one cannot help remarking in their social state, if the spirit of their government, essentially opposed to my ideas and habits, have drawn from me reproaches, and even cries of indignation, my praises, equally voluntary, must have the greater weight.
But these Orientals, habituated as they are to breathe and dispense the most direct incense of flattery, will be sensible to nothing but blame. All disapprobation appears to them as treachery ; they call every severe truth a fa½ehood ; they will not perceive the delicate admiration that may sometimes lurk under my apparent criticisms — the regret and, on some occasions, the sympathy that accompany my most severe remarks.
If they have not converted me to their religions (they have several, and among these, political religion is not the least intolerant), if, on the contrary, they have modified my monarchical ideas in a way that is opposed to despotism and favourable to representative government, they will be offended simply because I am not of their opinion. I regret that such is the case, but I prefer regret to remorse.
If I were not resigned to their injustice, I should not print these chapters. Besides, though they may complain of me in words, they will absolve me in their consciences: this testimony will be sufficient for me. Every honest Russian will admit that if I have committed errors of detail for want of time to
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rectify my impressions, I have described Russia in general, as it really is. They will make allowance for the difficulties which I have had to conquer, and will give me credit for the quickness with which I have, discerned the advantageous traits of their primitive character under the political mask that has disfigured it for so many ages.
The facts of which I have been witness are recorded precisely as they passed before my eyes; those which were related to me, are given as I received them ; I have not endeavoured to deceive the reader by substituting myself for the persons whom I consulted. If I have abstained from naming, or in any way indicating these persons, my discretion will undoubtedly be appreciated; it is one proof more of the decree of confidence which the enlightened indivi-duals deserve to whom I thus ventured to address myself for information respecting certain facts that it was impossible for me to observe personally. It is superfluous to add that I have only cited those to which the character and position of the men from whom I had them, gave, in my eyes, an unquestionable stamp of authority.
Aided by my scrupulous exactitude, the reader may judge for himself of the degree of authority that should be ascribed to these secondary facts, which, it may be further observed, occupy but a very small place in my narrations.
CONTENTS
THE FIRST VOLUME.
Arrival of the Hereditary Grand Duke of Russia at Ems. — Character of Russian Courtiers. — The Person of the Grand Duke. — His Father and Uncle at the same Age. — His Equipages and Suite. — Superiority of the English in all external Appurtenances. — The Rhine. — The River more beautiful than its Banks. — Fire-Flies on the Rhine. Page 1
Character and Progress of German Civilisation.— Prussian
Protestantism. — Music a means of Education. — Prussia the