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Auxiliary of Russia. — Luther the Personification of German

Character. — French Minister at Berlin.—Anecdote of the

Empress Catherine.—Anecdote of the Convention of Pilnitz.

Family Memoirs. — Souvenirs of the Revolution. — General

Custine. — Heroism of his Daughter-in-Law. — His Son. —

Tragic Prison Scene. — Early Impressions of Infancy.7

CHAPTER III.

Continuation of the Life of Madame de Custine.—Her Arrest. — Providential Concealment of her Papers. — Devotion of Xanette.— Scene at the tomb of Marat. — Madame de Beauharnais in Prison. —Anecdotes of Prison Life. — Interrogation of Madame de Custine. —Inspires one of her Judges

XXIVCONTENTS.

with the Desire of saving her. — The means which he uses during Six Months to retard her Execution. — End of the Reign of Terror. — Character of Robespierre. — The Prisons after his Fall. — Petition of Nanette. — Extraordinary Deliverance of Madame de Custine. — Returns to her House. — Sickness and Poverty. — Noble Conduct of Jerome. — His after History. — Journey of Madame de Custine to Switzerland.—Ballad of Le Rosier.—Lavater.— Madame de Custine under the Empire. — Her Friends. —Death in 1826. Page

CHAPTER ГУ.

Conversation at Lubeck on Peculiarities in the Russian Character.— Journey from Berlin to Lubeck. — Imaginary Evils.

—Travemunde. — Character of Northern Landscapes. —

Holstein Fishermen. — Sublimity of Flat Scenery. — Nights

of the North. — It is Civilisation which heightens Admiration

of the Scenes of Nature. — The Steppes of Russia. —Burn

ing of the Steamer Nicholas I. — Road from Sehwerin to

Lubeck. — A German Statesman. — The Fair Bath-Woman

of Travemunde.—Reflections.49

CHAPTER V.

Polar Nights. — Montesquieu and his System. — Scenery of the North. — Flatness of the Earth's Surface near the Pole.

—Shores of Finland. — Melancholy of Northern People. —

Prince К. — Definitions of Nobility. — The English

Nobility. — Freedom of Speech. — Canning. — Napoleon. — Confidential Conversation. — Glance at Russian History. — Institutions and Spirit of Chivalry unknown in Russia. — The Nature of an Autocracy. — Polities and Religion are identical in Russia. — Future Influence of Russia. — Fate of

Paris. — Prince and Princess D. —The Cold-Water

Cure. — Good Manners of the Higher Orders in Russia. —

Society in France before the Revolution. — A Modern

Frenchman of the Middle Classes. — His mauvais Ton. —

Agreeable Society on the Steam-Boat. — Russian National

Dances. — Two Americans. — Steam-Boat Accident. — Isle

of Dago.---61

CONTENTS.

XXV

CHAPTER VI.

Tragedy of Baron de Sternberg. — Type of Lord Byron's Heroes. — Parallel between Sir ЛУ. Scott and Byron. — Historical Romance. — Marriage of Peter the Great. — Romodauowski. — Influence of the Greek Church in Russia.

—Tyranny supported by Falsehood. — Corpse in the Church

of Revel.—The Emperor Alexander deceived.—Russian Sen

sitiveness as to the Opinions of Foreigners.—A Spy . Page 97

CHAPTER VII.

The Russian Marine. — Remark of Lord Durham's. — Great Efforts for small Results. — The Amusements of Despotism.

—Kronstadt. — Russian Custom-House. — Gloomy Aspect

of Nature. — Recollections of Rome. — English Poetical

Name for Ships of War. — Object of Peter the Great. — The

Finns. — Batteries of Kronstadt. — Abject Character of the

Lower Classes of Russian Employes. — Inquisitions of the

Police, and the Custom-House. — Sudden Change in the

Manners of Fellow-Travellers. — Fickleness of Northern

People.- - - - - - - ИЗ

CHAPTER VIII.

Approach to Petersburg by the Neva. — Incongruity between

the Climate and Aspect of the Country and the Style of

Architecture. — Absurd Imitation of the Monuments of

Greece. — The Custom-House and Police. — Inquisitorial

Examination. — Difficulties of Landing. — Appearance of

the Streets. — Statue of Peter the Great. — The Winter

Palace. — Rebuilt in one Year. — The Means employed.—

Russian Despotism.— Citation from Herberstein.—Karam-

sin. — The Character of the People accords with that of the

Government.-- - - - -128

CHAPTER IX.

The Drowska. — Costume of the Lower Orders. — Wooden

Pavements. — Petersburg in the Morning. — Resemblance of

the City to a Barrack.— Contrast between Russia and Spain.

vol. i.a

XXVI

CONTENTS.

—Difference between Tyranny and Despotism.'—The Tchinn.

Peculiar Character of the Russian Government. — The Arts in Russia. — A Russian Hotel. — The Evils to be encountered there. — The Michael Palaces. — Death of Paul I.

The Spy baflled. — The Neva, its Quays and Bridges. — Cabin of PeterL—The Citadel, its Tombs and D ungeons.

Church of St. Alexander Newski. — Russian Veterans. — Austerity of the Czar. — Russian Faith in the Future, and its Realisation. — Munich and Petersburg compared. — Interior of the Fortress. — The Imperial Tombs.— Subterranean Prison. — Russian Prisoners. — Moral Degradation of the Higher Classes. —Catholic Church. —Precarious Toleration. —Tomb of the last King of Poland, and of Moreau. Page 142

CHAPTER X.

Visit to the Islands. — Character of the Scenery. — Artificial Beauties. — Comparison between Russian and English Taste.

—Aim and Characteristics of Russian Civilisation. — Happi

ness impossible in Russia. — Fashionable Life in St. Peters

burg.— Equality under Despotism. — Characteristic Traits

of Russian Society. — Absolute Power. — Pavilion of the

Empress.—Vermin in the Houses and Palaces of St. Peters

burg.— Costume of the Lower Orders. — Beauty of the Men

when of pure Slavonian Race. — The Women. — Condition

of the Russian Peasantry. — The Sale of Serfs.—Commerce

can alone alter the present State of Things. — Care taken to

conceal the Truth from Foreigners. — Religious Usurpation

of Peter the Great. — His Character and Monstrous Cruel

ties.— Culpability of the Aristocracy. — The Author sus

pected. — State of Medical Art in Russia. — Universal

Mystery. — Permission to be present at the Marriage of the

Grand Duchess.? 163

CHAPTER XL

Coincidence of Dates. — Marriage of the Grandson of M. de Beauharnais. — Chapel of the Court,— The Emperor Nicholas.—His Person.— The Empress. — Consequences of Despotism.—The Author's Debut at Court.—An Accident. — Magnificent Decorations and Costume. — Entree of the

CONTENTS.

XXVll

Imperial Family. — The Emperor Master of the Ceremonies.

Forms of the Greek Church. — M. de Pahlen. — Emotion of the Empress. — Description of the Duke of Leuchtenberg.

His Impatience. — Prudery in Modern Conversation.— Its Cause. — Music of the Imperial Chapel. — The Archbishop. — The Emperor kisses his Hand. — Talisman of M. de Beauharnais. — No Crowd in Russia. — Immensity of the Publie Scruares.— The Column of Alexander. — False Taste of the Russians in the Arts. — Triumphal Arch. — Storm at the Moment of the Marriage. — The Emperor to be pitied. — The Empress a Victim. — The Author's Presentation.— The Emperor's Voice. — The Affability of the Empress. — A Fete at the Palace. — Courtiers. — Court Dances. — The Polonaise. — The Grand Gallery. — Political Reflections. — French Polities. — The Supper. — Khan of The Kirguises. — The Queen of Georgia. — Russian Court Dress. — A Genevese at the Emperor's Table.— Politeness of the Monarch.—A Night Scene in the North. — An unexpected Interview with the Empress. — Philosophy of Despotism....... Page 190