Far from inspiring me with dislike, these things attract me. I cannot help viewing with interest one feared by the rest of the world, and who is, in reality, only so Jiiuch the more to be commiserated.
To escape as much as possible from the constraint which he imposes on himself, he is as restless as a lion in a cage, or a patient in a fever; he is constantly moving on foot or on horseback ; reviewing, carrying on little wars, sailing, manoeuvring his fleet, giving and receiving fetes. Leisure is that which is most dreaded at tliis court; whence I conclude that
A COURT PRESENTATION.225
no where else is ennui so much felt. The emperor travels incessantly ; he journeys over at least 1500 leagues every season, and he has no notion that others have not the strength to do as he does. The empress loves him, and dreads leaving him; she therefore follows him as well as she can, and is dying of the fatigues and excitement consequent upon this life.
So complete an absence of quiet and regularity must be injurious to the education of their children. The young princes do not live sufficiently isolated to avoid the evil influences which the frivolity of a court always in motion, the absence of all interesting and connective conversation, and the impossibility of meditation, must exert upon their character. TVben I think of the distribution of their time, I have little hope even of the talents which they exhibit, I fear just as I would for the enduring beauty of a flower whose roots were not in their natural soil. Every thing is founded on appearance in Russia; whence it is that everything inspires mistrust.
I was presented tins evening, not by the French ambassador, but by the grand master of the court ceremonies. Such was the order of the emperor, of which I was previously informed by our ambassador. I cannot tell whether this is the usual proceeding, but it was the manner in which I was presented to their imperial majesties.
All the foreigners admitted to the honour of approaching their persons, were assembled together in one of the saloons which they would have to cross in proceeding to open the ball. We arrived at the L 5
226VOICE OF THE EMPEROR.
appointed hour, and had to wait a long time for the appearance of the illustrious personages.
There were with me two or three French, a Pole, a Genevese, and several Germans. The opposite side of the saloon was occupied by a row of Russian ladies, assembled there to pay their court.
The Emperor received us with a refined and graceful politeness. At the first glance it was easy to recognise a man who, notwithstanding his power, is obliged and accustomed to humour the self-love of others.
In order to intimate to me that I might, without displeasing him, survey his empire, his majesty did me the honour of saying that it was at least necessary to see Moscow and Nijni before a just idea of the country could be formed. i: Petersburg is Russian," he added, " but it is not Russia."
These few words were pronounced in a tone of voice that could not be forgotten, so strongly was it marked by authoritativeness and firmness. Every body had spoken to me of the imposing manners, the noble features, and the commanding figure of the emperor, but no one had prepared me for the power of his voice : it is that of a man born to command. In it there is neither effort nor study, it is a gift developed only by habitual use.
The Empress, on a near approach, has a most winning expression of countenance, and the sound of her voice is as sweetly penetrating as that of the emperor is naturally imperious.
She asked me if 1 came to Petersburg with the simple object of travelling. I replied in the affirm-
AFFABILITY OF THE EMPRESS.227
ative. " I know that you are a curious observer," she continued.
" Yes Madame," I answered, " it is curiosity which brings me to Russia; and this time, at least, I do not regret having yielded to a passion for travel."
" You really think so ? " she replied with a gracefulness of manner that was very charming.
" It appears to me that there are such wonderful objects in this country, that to believe them requires that we should see them with the eyes."
" I shoiüd wish you to see much and to view favourably."
" This wish of your majesty's is an encouragement."
Cí If you think well of us, you will say so, but it will be useless; you will not be believed: we are ill understood, and people will not understand us better."
These words in the mouth of the Empress struck me, on account of the pre-occupation of idea which they discovered. It seemed to me also that she meant to manifest a kind of benevolence towards me, which was expressed with a politeness and a simplicity that are rarely seen.
The Empress, the moment she speaks, inspires confidence as well as respect. Through the reserve which the language and usages of court render compulsory, it is easy to see that she has a heart. This misfortune imparts to her an indefinable charm. She is more than an empress, she is a woman.
She appeared to be suffering from extreme fatigue. The thinness of her person is quite shocking. The agitation of the life she leads is consuming her, and
228FETE AT THE PALACE.
they say that the ennui of a life more calm would he equally injurious.
The fete which followed our presentation was one of the most magnificent that I have ever seen. The admiration and astonishment with which each saloon of this palace (rebuilt in a year), inspired the whole court, imparted a dramatic interest to the formal pomp of the usual ceremonies. Every hall and every painting was a subject of surprise to the Russians themselves, who now for the first time saw the marvellous abode which the word of their Deity had caused to spring from its ashes. What an effort of human will, thought I, as I contemplated each gallery, sculpture and painting. The style of the ornaments calls to mind the age in which the palace was originally founded, and what I saw appeared already ancient. They copy everything in Russia, not excepting even the effects of time. These wonders inspired the crowd with an admiration that was contagious, and my internal indignation at the means by which the miracle was created, began to diminish. If I could feel such an influence after only two days' abode here, what allowance should not be made for the men who are born, and who pass their life in the air of the Russian court!—that is in Russia; for it is the air of the court which is breathed from one end of the empire to the other. Even the serfs, through their relations with their lords, feel the in-fluence of that sovereign will which alone animates the country : the courtier who is their master, is for them the image of the emperor, and the court is present to the Russians wherever there is a man to command, and men to obey.
RUSSIAN COURTIERS.229
Elsewhere the poor are either beggars, or unruly members of society; in Russia they are all courtiers. The courtier is found in every rank of society, and for this reason it is that I say, the court is everywhere. There is, between the sentiments of the Russian nobles and those of men of family in ancient Europe, the same difference that there is between the eom`tier and the aristocrat, or l)etween emotions of vanity and of pride ; — true pride, which is almost as rare as virtue — is virtue. Instead of abusing courtiers as Beaumarchais and so many others have done, these men, who, whatever may be said, are like other men, deserve pity. Poor unfortunate courtiers! they are not the monsters that our modern plays and romances, or our revolutionary journals describe ; they are merely weak creatures, corrupted and corrupting, as much as, but not more than, others who are less exposed to temptation. Ennui is the curse of riches, still it is not a crime : vanity and interest are more strongly excited, and therefore more eagerly sought in a court than on any other stage of action : and these passions abridge life. But if the hearts they agitate are more tormented, they are not more perverse than those of other men. Human wisdom would accomplish much if it could sueceed in showing to the multitude how much it ought to feel of pity instead of envy towards the possessors of a fancied good.