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An incident, singular enough in its character, has afforded me a specimen of the perfect politeness of the emperor.

THE SUPPEE.

235

During the ball, a master of the ceremonies had indicated to such of the foreigners as appeared for the first time at this court, the places that were reserved for them at the supper-table. "When you see the ball interrupted," he said to each of us, " follow the crowd into the gallery, where you will find a large table laid out; take the side to the right, and seat yourselves in the first places you find unoccupied."

There was but one table, laid with one thousand covers, for the corps diplomatique, the foreigners, and all the attendants at court; but at the entrance of the hall, on the right hand side, was a little round table laid for eight.

A Genevese, an intelligent and well-educated young man, had been presented the same evening in the uniform of a national guard, a dress which is in general anything but agreeable to the emperor; nevertheless, this young Swiss appeared perfectly at home. TThether it was owing to natural assurance, republican ease, or pure simplicity of heart, he seemed neither to think of the persons around him, nor of the effect that he might. produce upon them. I envied Ins perfect self-confidence, which I was far from participating. Our manners, though very different, had the same success ; the emperor treated us both equally well.

An experienced and intelligent person had recommended to me, in a tone half serious, half jocose, to maintain a respectful and rather timid air if I wished to please the monarch. This counsel was quite superfluous, for if I were to enter the hut of a collier, in order to make his acquaintance, I should experience

236THE GENEVESE AT SUPPER.

some little degree of physical embarrassment, so naturally do I shrink from society. A man has never German blood without showing it; I possessed, therefore, naturally, the degree of timidity and reserve requisite to satisfy the jealous majesty of the Czar, who would be as great as he wishes to appear, if he were less prepossessed with the notion that those who approach him are likely to fail in respect. This inquietude of the emperor does not, however, always operate ; of which, and of the natural dignity of that prince, the following is an instance.

The Genevese, far from partaking of my old-fashioned modesty, was perfectly at his ease. He is young, and has about him all the spirit of the age mingled with a simplicity of his own ; and I could not but admire his air of assurance each time the emperor addressed him.

The affability of the monarch was soon put by the young Swiss to a decisive proof. On passing into the banquet hall, the republican, turning towards the right, according to the instruction he had received, came across the little round table, and intrepidly seated himself before it, though there was no other person there to keep him company. The moment after, the crowd of guests being placed, the emperor, followed by some officers who enjoyed his special confidence, advanced and took his scat at the same table at which was placed the worthy Swiss national guardsman. I should state that the empress was not at this table. The traveller remained in his chair with the imperturbable ease which I had already so much :idmired in him, and which, under the circumstances, was really admirable,

POLITENESS OF THE EMPEEOR.237

A seat was wanting, for the emperor had not expected this ninth guest; but, with a politeness the completeness of which was equivalent to the delicacy of a kind heart, he spoke in a low voice to a servant, directing; him to bring a chair and another cover, which was done without any noise or trouble.

Being placed at the extremity of the great table,

close to that of the emperor, this occurrence could

not escape my observation, nor, consequently, that of

him who was its object. But, this happily-consti

tuted young man, far from troubling himself because

he perceived he had been placed contrary to the in

tention of the sovereign, maintained, with the most

perfect sang froìd, a conversation with his two near

est neighbours, which lasted during the whole repast.

I thought to myself, he has good sense ; he does not

wish to make a public display: but, no doubt, he

only waits the moment when the emperor rises, to ap

proach him, and to offer some word of explanation.

Nothing of the kind ! When supper was over the

young Swiss, far from excusing himself, seemed to

view the honour he had received as nothing more

than was quite natural. On returning to his lodg

ing he would doubtless inscribe, with the most per

fect simplicity, in his journal — " Supped with the

emperor." However, his majesty rather abridged

the pleasure : rising, before the guests who sat at the

great table, he passed round behind our chairs, all the

while desiring that we should remain seated. The

Hereditary Grand-duke accompanied his father; I

observed this young prince stop behind the chair of a

gi`eat English nobleman, the Marquis, and ex

change some jest with the young Lord, son of

238NIGHT-SCENE IN THE NOIÌTH.

the same marquis. The foreigners remained seated, like every body else, before the prince and the emperor, answered them with their backs turned, and continued eating.

This exhibition of English politeness shows that the Emperor of Russia has greater plainness of manners than have many of the owners of private houses.

I had scarcely expected to find at this ball a pleasure altogether foreign to the persons and objects around. I allude to the impressions which the great phenomena of nature have always produced in me. The temperature of the day had risen to 50 degrees, and notwithstanding the freshness of the evening, the atmosphere of the palace during the fete was suffocating. On rising from table I took refuge in the embrasure of an open window. There, completely abstracted from all that passed around, I was suddenly struck with admiration at beholding one of those effects of light which we see only in the north, during the magic brightness of a polar night. It was half-past twelve o'clock, and the nights having yet scarcely begun to lengthen, the dawn of day appeared already in the direction of Archangel. The wind had fallen : numerous belts of black and motionless clouds divided the firmament into zones, each of which was irradiated with a light so brilliant, that it appeared like a polished plate of silver; its lustre was reflected on the Neva, to whose vast and un-rippled surface it gave the appearance of a lake of milk or of mother-of-pearl. The greater part of Petersburg, with its quays and its spires, was, under this light, revealed before my eyes; it was a perfect