Under the perfumed groves of the ball-room the empress reposed herself at the conclusion of every polonaise. She found there a shelter from the heat of the illuminated garden, the air of which during this summer night was as stifling as that of the interior of the palace.
I found leisure during the fete to draw a comparison in my own mind between France and Russia, on a subject regarding which my observations were
254INTERESTING CONVERSATION
not in favour of the former. Democracy cannot but be uncongenial to the ordering of a grand assembly. The one which I beheld in the Michael Palace was embellished with all the care and all the tokens of homage of which a sovereign could be the object. A queen is always indispensable to the maintenance of elegant pleasures. But the principles of equality have so many other advantages, that we may well sacrifice to them the luxuries of pleasure. It is this which we do in France with a disinterestedness that is meritorious ; my only fear is lest our great grandchildren may have different views, when the time shall have arrived to enjoy the perfections prepared for them by their too generous ancestors. Who knows if these undeceived generations shall not say, when speaking of us, ¢í Seduced by a sophistical eloquence, they became vague, unmeaning fanatics, and have entailed on us absolute misery?"
To return from the contemplation of the future which America is promising to Europe:—before the banquet, the empress, seated under her canopy of exotic verdure, made me a sign to approaeh her; and scarcely had I obeyed, when the emperor also came to the magic fountain, whose shoAver of diamonds was giving us both light and a freshened atmosphere. He took me by the hand, and led me some steps from the chair of his consort, where he was pleased to converse with me for more than a quarter of an hour on subjects of interest; for this prince does not, like many other princes, speak to you merely that it may be seen he does so.
He first said a few words on the admirable arrangements of the fete; and I remarked, in reply,
WITH THE EMPEROR.
255
that in a life so active as his, I was astonished that he could find time for every tiling, including even a participation in the pleasures of the crowd.
" Happily," he replied, " the machine of government is very simple in my country ; for, with distances which render every thing difficult, if the form of government was complicated, the head of one man would not suffice for its recµùrements."
I was surprised and flattered by this tone of frankness. The emperor, who understands better than any one that which is felt, though not expressed, proceeded — replying to my thought — " If I speak to you in this manner, it is because I know that you can understand me: we are continuing the labours of Peter the Great."
" He is not dead, sh`e; his genius and his will still govern Russia."
When any one speaks in public with the emperor, a large circle of courtiers gathers at a respectful distance, from whence no one can overhear the sovereign's conversation, though all eyes continue fixed upon him.
It is not the prince who is likely to embarrass you when he does you the honour of conversing; it is his suite.
The emperor continued: — " It is not very easy to prosecute this work: submission may cause you to believe that there is uniformity among us, but I must undeceive you; there is no other country where is found such diversity of races, of manners, of religion, and of mind, as in llussia. The diversity lies at the bottom, the uniformity appears on the surface, and the unity is only apparent. You see near to us twenty
256IMPROVEMENTS IN THE KREMLIN.
officers, the two first only are Russians; the three next to them are conciliated Poles; several of the others are Germans; there are even the Khans of the Kirguises, who bring me their sons to educate among my cadets. There is one of them," he said, pointing with his finger to a little Chinese monkey, in a whimsical costume of velvet all bedizened with gold.
" Two hundred thousand children are brought up and instructed at my cost with this child."
■` Sire, every thing is done on a large scale in this country — every thing is colossal."
" Too colossal for one man."
" What man has ever stood in nearer relation to his people ? "
" You speak of Peter the Great ?"
" No, sire."
" I hope that you will not be content with merely seeing Petersburg. What is your plan of route in visiting my country ? "
" Sire, I wish to leave immediately after the fete of PeterhoíF."
" Togo?"
í¢ To Moscow and Nijna."
" Good: but you will be there too soon : you will leave Moscow before my arrival, and I should have been glad to see you thei`e."
" This observation of your majesty's will cause me to change my plan."
" So much the better ; we will show you the new works that we are making at the Kremlin. My object is to render the architecture of these old edifices better adapted to the uses now made of them. The palace was inconveniently small for me. You
ENGLISH XOBLEMAX.257
will be present also at a curious ceremony on the plain of Borodino: I am to place there the first stone of a monument which we are about to erect in commemoration of that battle."
I remained silent, and no doubt the expression of my face became serious. The emperor fixed his eyes on me, and then continued, in a tone of kindness and with a delicacy and even sensibility of manner which touched my heart, — " The inspection of the manoeuvres at least will interest you."
" Sire, every thing interests me in Russia."
I saw the old Marquis D, who has only one
leg, dance the polonaise with the empress. Lame as he is, he can get through this dance, which is nothing more than a solemn procession. He has arrived here with his sons: they travel like real great lords; a yacht brought them from London to Petersburg, where they have had forwarded English horses and carriages in great number. Their equipages are the most elegant, if they are not the most sumptuous, in Petersburg. These travellers are treated with marked attention. They are intimate with the imperial family. The emperor's love of field sports, and the recollection of liis journey to London when Grand Duke, have established between him and the Marquis D —— that kind of familiarity which, it appears to me, must be more pleasant to the princes than to the private individuals who have become the objects of such favour. Where friendship is impossible, intimacy I should think can be only constraining. One would have said, to have sometimes seen the manners of the marquis's sons towards the members of the imperial family, that they thought on this subject as I did. If
25«
ANECDOTE.
freedom of manners and speech should gain a footing at court, where will falsehood and politeness find a refuge ? *
Young is at Petersburg: we meet every
where, and with pleasure ; he is a type of the Frenchman of the present day, but truly well bred. He appears to be enchanted with every thing. This satisfaction is so natural that it becomes contagious,
* Some days after this was written, a little scene occurred at court which will give some idea of the manners of the most fashionable young people among the English in the present day: they have no right to reproach, nor yet any reason to envy, the least polite of our Parisian exquisites : — what a difference between this kind of blackguard elegance, and the politeness of the Buckinghams, the L·auzuns, and the Richelieus ! The empress wished to give a private ball as a mark of attention to this family before their leaving Petersburg. She began by inviting the father, who dances so well with an artificial leg.