Primary fixed blade survival knives
As Figure 4-1 reveals, a primary fixed blade survival knife should have a full tang (no moving parts) and a grind that is conducive to the chores of survival.
A good way to determine a good size for a general purpose survival knife is to use your hand. Lay the knife blade across your hand, being very careful of course, and if the blade of the knife from the front of the handle to point is the width of your hand, then the knife will be a good choice as a general purpose survival knife. This is also a good measure for the handle, which should also be about the width of your hand.
My two favorite grinds for survival and bushcraft are the convex and Scandi grind. They are both excellent at wood work. I like the convex grind for its edge sharpness and strength, as I do a lot of batoning (more about batoning later) with a knife. The Scandi works well also, but we must all have a favorite. I have been known to carry both.
In regard to convex grind, you cannot get much better than a Bark River. They are one of the finest convex ground knives available for survival. They have an exceptional geometry of blade with an edge that doesn’t quit when the going gets tough. I have put the Bark River Foxriver and Bravo 1 through extensive use and abuse, and they continue to provide excellent service. I am recently using the Bark River Gunny, which is a downsized version of the Bravo 1. Although slightly smaller than my usual main-carry knife, it is performing to the standards I require, and being I carry a fixed blade knife every day, it presents less of an impact hanging on my belt when at the mall.
A custom knife maker who also produces a fine convex grind is Dave Thomas of Chieftain Knives. He has made several custom knives to my specifications and they are excellent. The knife shown in the Neck Knife Survival Kit was made for me by Dave Thomas - very sharp!
When it comes to Scandi grind, my favorite is the Skookum Bush Tool which, although called a tool, is a knife designed by Rod Garcia with input from Mors Kochanski. It is definitely one of the finer knives designed specifically for bushcraft and survival. I had the distinct pleasure of spending a week in the field with Rod Garcia and he is not only a knife maker but well skilled in the techniques of wilderness survival. If you choose a Scandi knife, the Skookum Bush Tool is high on my list of recommendations.
Another fine knife maker that specializes in Scandi grinds is Blind Horse Knives. They have a good selection for survival and bushcraft purposes. They made the Pathfinder Knife shown earlier.
If you are on a short budget and desire a less than expensive knife with a Scandi grind, you can’t go wrong with a Mora. The price in relationship to functionality is, let’s say, “on the money.”
Large fixed blade knives (choppers)
There are two camps as far as opinions about large fixed blade knives, also called “choppers,” and, as with anything dealing with knives, some are for them and the other half is against them. In my opinion, if it works for you then don’t worry about what other people say.
I’m in the camp that believes that a large fixed blade knife is a good addition to survival edgeware. It is always supplemental to my primary survival knife, but is functional for my purposes. Although you will rarely see me chop with a “chopper,” you will often see me batoning with one. I find they work well at making larger pieces of wood into smaller pieces of wood. They are also multi-functional as they make a good draw knife, a good wedge and, of course, a good chopper, if chopping is something you need to do.
When it comes to a large fixed blade knife, I’m not interested in a “Rambo” style knife with bells and whistles, serrations, or any other thing that doesn’t serve a purpose I have. I like them to have a thick blade for use as a wedge when batoning. I want them sharp and easy to sharpen in the field. My preferred large blade knives are now made my Fehrman and are extremely robust and will take a licking and keep on ticking. I have also spent countless hours with the TOPS Armageddon which has always performed as required. The original Becker BK-9 was a favorite for many years. The Ontario RTAK and RTAK-II were always just a little on the thin side for my personal liking. But you will decide what is right for you. If I am going to go thin, I might as well have a machete.
The bottom line is this: if you want to carry a large fixed blade knife, carry it as a supplemental blade to your primary blade. You make the choice that is right for you, and don’t worry about what other people think. They can carry what they want.
Machetes
Many people think of a machete when they think of a jungle, but don’t let that fool you. They are an extremely versatile tool for any environment. They can clear brush, baton wood, be used as a draw knife and still have plenty of use left. They are a large, long, sharp instrument, so caution in use is recommended, especially when clearing brush. Anything sharp swung around in the air can cause a lot of injury if it meets the wrong target. Don’t let it be you.
I prefer a machete, again, as a back-up to a main blade, and always carry one in my truck. Because of their length, machetes are more difficult to carry on your person, but can be strapped to a pack or slung over a shoulder. They are particularly handy in the jungle or a swampy area. They can also be included in a snowmobile kit, as they are handy for cutting snow to build a shelter.
There is a plethora of machetes to chose from. Ontario and Cold Steel both make a line of machetes. There are also some custom machetes available. I prefer those made by Andy Roy at Fiddlebackforge.com, as they are very well made, with an awesome edge and custom micarta handles.
Fixed blade knife carry
There are many ways to carry a knife in the field. What you want to ensure is that your knife is safe from loss (remember it’s your primary survival tool), easy to get in and out of its sheath and protected from the elements, and also that you are protected from getting cut. The primary means to secure a knife is a sheath. The two basic sheaths are leather sheaths and Kydex sheaths. I make all my own leather sheaths and prefer them for most outdoor activity. However, for long term survival in a wet environment I prefer Kydex, as they don’t soak up the water and dry quickly. I also prefer Kydex for its ability to lock in a knife, especially if the sheath is worn upside down.