Indeed.
The truck I parked behind had a half-dozen dogs in the bed, border collie/blue heeler mixes that all came over to growl at me as I made my way around to the front of my car. The red merle in the corner snapped and missed me by only eight inches. I stopped and turned to look at all of them, still growling and snarling, and saw that Dog had raised his head from the backseat to balefully inspect the herding dogs the way timber wolves inspect coyotes.
There were still hitching posts in front of The AR, which was handy because there were horses in front of The AR. A snippy-looking grulla and a sleepy quarter horse stirred as I placed a boot on the wooden steps. The mouse-colored one had a cloudy eye and turned to look at me with his good one, while the grade went back to napping in the September sun, his right rear hoof raised in relaxation like some pre-Technicolor-era starlet being kissed. I stuck out a hand, and he brushed the soft fur of his nose across my knuckles. I thought about a circle around an eye and the last horse I’d been this close to and how he had died.
“In this country, we don’t touch a man’s horse without asking.”
I dropped my hand and turned to look at the voice. “Well, technically, he touched me.” I stepped the rest of the way onto the boardwalk and looked down at the cowboy, aware that a two-foot height advantage is always handy in dealing with antagonists, especially ones that are ten years old.
The little outlaw tipped back on the heels of his boots and looked up at me with dark eyes. “You’re big.”
“I didn’t plan it.”
He thought about that for a while and then looked disapprovingly at my new, pinch-front hat. “You lost?”
I sighed softly and continued toward the door. “No.”
“Bar’s closed.”
He said everything as if it were an absolute that would brook no argument; I wondered if he was related to the green-eyed rancher at the condemned bridge. I turned to look at him with my hand on the doorknob. “Do you frequent this establishment a great deal?”
He placed a fist on his hip and looked up at me, as if I should already know what it was that he was going to say. “You talk funny.”
I stood there looking at the black hair sticking out from all angles like a murder of crows trying to escape from underneath the stained cowboy hat. I thought about another kid from a number of years ago with a head like a pail-just as impenetrable and about as empty. “Is everybody in this town as polite as you?”
He paused for a second and stuffed the already chewed-on leather stampede strings that were dangling from his hat into his mouth, saving him from spitting on the road like the old rancher. “Pretty much.”
I nodded, looking at the plastic sign in the window that read CLOSED, then turned the knob and stepped into The AR. “Must make for gracious living ’round these parts.”
The AR was like most of the public drinking establishments in northern Wyoming, which bear a great resemblance to the establishments of southern Wyoming and everywhere else in the West, except that this one had a makeshift boxing arena to the left of the central U-shaped bar, with an elevated plywood platform, steel fencing poles in the corners, and two strands of calf-roping ropes strung around it.
On a shelf above the bar was a television set tuned to the Weather Channel with the sound off. Weather was always a safe subject in this part of the world-everybody was interested, everybody enjoyed the bitching, and nobody could do anything about it. A more-than-middle-aged man sat on a mismatched chair at one of the small tables to the right of the particleboard bar and smoked a cigarette. He was reading the Gillette newspaper.
“Bar’s closed.”
It was a female voice, with the same cocksure intonations as the kid’s, so I ignored the man reading the News-Record, just as he ignored me. I looked around at the all-but-empty room. “Beg your pardon?”
“Bar’s closed.”
The voice had come from behind the counter, so I walked over and looked down; I could just see the punt end of a baseball bat, the butt of an old Winchester pump on one of the shelves, and a young woman. She was bantam-sized and was mopping up water from under the beer coolers with a dish-rag. She looked at me beneath a confection of black hair pulled back with a wide elastic band. She had mocha-colored eyes, and her skin tone was the same as the boy’s-maybe Indian, maybe, on closer inspection, from somewhere in Central America. “Bar’s closed.”
“Yep, I got that.” I tipped my hat back and raised a hand in submission. “And before you ask, I’m not lost.”
She threw the rag onto the floor with a plop of exasperation. “Then what do you want?”
It was silent for a moment. “I was wondering if there were any rooms available in the motel.”
She rose to her feet and leaned on the bar, where she grabbed another rag from a pile and wiped her hands. “Nothing but rooms available. Nobody wants to stay here without air-conditioning and satellite television.” She glanced at the man seated at the small table, who was still smoking and reading. “Pat? Man’s wanting a room.”
He didn’t look up and continued to cover most of his face with a hand on which was an enormous, gold Masonic ring that seemed to hold the cigarette smoke in a sustained orbit. “Full.”
The young woman glanced at me, then at him, and then shrugged as she went back to the leaking cooler. I turned to the man. He was overweight and dressed in overalls, a short-sleeved print shirt, and a trucker-style ball cap that read SHERIDAN SEED COMPANY.
“No rooms at all?”
He glanced up at me, but for only a moment, and flicked some ashes into the glass ashtray that advertised THUNDERBIRD HOTEL, LAS VEGAS, NEV. “Booked up.”
The young woman’s voice rose again from behind the bar. “What about number four?”
He continued reading. “Toilet’s busted.”
She spoke again as I leaned against the bar. “We got a toilet in here, he could just use that.”
He sighed and flashed a dirty look in her general vicinity. “S’against the law, room’s gotta have a working toilet.”
She stood back up, tossed the new now-sopping rag into a galvanized trash can, and ripped a half-dozen paper towels off a roll on the counter. “What law is that?”
He looked at her and stubbed the cigarette out in the ashtray. “The you-gotta-have-a-crapper-in-any-room-you-rent law.”
“Whose law is that?” The quick-draw flash of temper in her eyes and the barest trace of an accent was significantly Latin.
He pushed his chair back and folded the newspaper, slipping it under his arm. “Mine.”
She turned the entirety of her attitude toward me, and I was briefly reminded of my daughter. “You paying in cash?”
I blinked. “I can.”
The attitude shifted back to the lawgiver, and I was just as glad to be relieved of it. “You haven’t paid me in two weeks because you haven’t had any money.” He continued to look at her through sloped eyelids. “Well, here’s money.” She walked to the bar-back at the wall, plucked a key from a full rack, and slammed it on the counter between us. “Thirty-two dollars and ninety-five cents.”
I nodded, looking at the key still covered by her hand. “For a room without a toilet?”
She glanced up at me from below the accentuated eyebrows and through the dark lashes. “You can forget about the ninety-five cents, and I’ll eat the tax.”
I reached for my wallet. “What the governor doesn’t know won’t hurt him?” She didn’t say anything and ignored the older man completely as I handed her two twenties. “I might need the room for more than one night.”
“Even better. I’ll keep your change as a deposit.”
I took the key and turned toward the door. “Thanks… I think.”
“You want a drink?”
The older man hadn’t moved; he still stood in the same place and was watching me. I turned and looked at her. “Thought the bar was closed.”
She smiled a stunner of a smile with perfectly shaped lips. “Just opened.”