The driveway to the Windham Hill Inn is modest enough-a dirt lane branching off from the road between Route 30 and the tiny village of Windham some seven miles farther north. There is an official state sign advertising the place-small, sedate white letters on a dark green background. Vermont does not permit billboards, a decision with which the inn had obviously tastefully concurred, since not even the mailbox continued the message.
The darkened lane meanders a short distance past a house or two, closely shaded by a crowd of trees before cresting a small hill and issuing into the light of a vast opening.
It’s a theatrical setting. From right to left, on a gentle downhill slope, are a pool, a tennis court, a huge converted barn, a discreetly landscaped parking area, and the main house of the inn itself-old, brick-clad topped by white clapboard-all looking like a watercolor of the English countryside. Beyond it hovers a view of thousands of acres-fields, forests, and haze-blurred mountains-and standing front and center, visually connecting the barn and the main building, towering in sharp contrast to the breathtaking but hazy horizon, was a tremendous, fan-shaped tree, unlike any I’d ever seen.
I had stopped the car on the crest, and now cast a glance at J.P., whose eyes were glued to the tree. “The ginkgo, I presume?” I asked.
“It’s huge,” he murmured.
I rolled down into the parking area near the tree and killed the engine.
“Okay,” I said, turning toward him. “Soft-shoe time. We’re here unofficially, no bones to pick. We’re working on something vague, checking a variety of neighborhoods. If we can avoid mentioning any interest in the tree, so much the better.”
“Do we even admit we’re cops?” he asked.
We opened our doors simultaneously. “Let’s play it by ear.”
We were met by a cloying, nauseating odor-a stunning counterpoint to the beauty surrounding us.
“Jesus,” J.P. gasped. “It smells like shit.”
“Or vomit,” I agreed, “Wilson didn’t even come close.”
J.P. was looking around him in shock. “I guess. The little bit I found in the car trunk smelled bad, but I thought it was something else-a dead piece of skin or something.” He glanced over at the main house of the inn, artistically swathed in flowers, bushes, and a couple of carefully pruned fruit trees. “I don’t think keeping the tree out of the brochure is such a good idea. This guy could have a lawsuit on his hands.”
As if in response, the front door swung back, and a tall, white-haired man with a tanned face, slight belly, and broad shoulders appeared on the threshold. He waved and called out, “Hi, there. Welcome.”
I waved back. J.P. was still glancing about, suddenly aware that I’d parked right in the middle of a blanket of the pulpy seeds. He lifted his foot and checked the sole of his shoe with disgust.
The man approached, shaking his head, but only speaking once he’d come within earshot. “I am sorry. You’ve just been introduced to our ginkgo tree, I’m afraid. It doesn’t last long, but it’s a mess while it does.”
He shook our hands. “I’m John Rarig, the owner. You’ll be glad to know this is the worst of it. We’ve put shoe scrubbers at all the entrances, the only rooms we’re using right now face away from the tree, and the dining room’s on the other side.”
Neither J.P. nor I said anything immediately, forcing Rarig to shuffle his feet a bit, put his hands in his pockets, and lean back to stare up to the top of the towering offender. I guessed him to be in his mid-seventies but in terrifically good shape. He sighed resignedly. “I know, it still stinks. There’s no way around it. It’s probably been there thirty years or more, as beautiful as any tree I’ve ever seen. In the fall, it turns an electric yellow, like it’s been plugged in-amazing. It only started doing this this year.”
“I know,” I admitted, mostly to spare myself another botanical lecture. “We heard all about it from Jay Wilson at the greenhouse.”
Rarig looked at us in surprise. “How did you know about my tree?”
“We didn’t. It came up in conversation. It sounded interesting, so we came by to check it out.”
J.P., yielding to curiosity, had stopped worrying about the slimy pulp and was instead taking a tour of the tree in its midst, circling the thick trunk and looking up into its branches. The tactic of avoiding all mention of the ginkgo had obviously been amended.
“Are you naturalists or something?” Rarig asked, showing his confusion.
I gave him what I hoped was a disarming smile. “Cops, actually-out of Brattleboro. I’m Joe Gunther. That’s J.P. Tyler. Wilson made this tree sound so weird, we came up on impulse. I hope that’s all right.”
Rarig was still smiling, but I felt the intensity of his eyes. “Sure-I wish I could turn it into a tourist attraction. Charge admission and make up some of what it’s costing me.”
“Cut into the clientele, has it?” I asked.
He gazed unhappily at the converted barn we’d passed driving in, his voice flattening now that he knew we weren’t customers. “Even after closing every room facing this damn thing. I’ve got twenty-one of them, grand total, so that’s only five or six I can’t use. But it still doesn’t matter. Guests are pretty understanding about most things, like when we were fixing up that barn-all the construction noise and trucks and workmen-but this really gets to them. Gets to me, too.”
Having finished his survey, J.P. circled back toward us. “Why don’t you cut it down?” he asked.
Rarig looked at the sloppy, stained driveway. “I probably should. It’s just that for the rest of the year, it’s like the focal point of the whole place-ties it all together visually.” He turned toward the main building and gestured with his hand. “Why don’t you come in for a cup of coffee or something? Get out of this stench.”
We fell into line behind him as he led the way, still talking. “It’s also worth an incredible amount of money-thousands and thousands of dollars. Plus, I’m the new kid on the block-only owned the place for four years-and it’s been here forever. I’d hate to come across as the turkey who destroyed the prize ginkgo ’cause he wanted to make a buck.”
“Where did you live before?” I asked.
“DC. I worked for the State Department. Gray life in a gray office inside a gray building. I couldn’t wait till the pension reached its max. I was out of there so fast I don’t even remember packing. I didn’t come straight here, of course. Took me ten years of roaming around the country before I found the best it had to offer.” He laughed and showed us how to dampen the soles of our shoes in a soapy pan and then scrub them against some stiff brushes bolted to the door stoop.
The interior of the main building was a blend of English pub, old family home, and New England antiquities. It was dark, comforting, heavy in wood and wool accents, and decorated with somber oil paintings and weathered brass knickknacks. Rarig led us down the short central hallway, around a cherry wood bar area, and back to a grouping of overstuffed armchairs overlooking the back lawn, a small pond, and the woods beyond. The chairs reminded me of ones my mother still had at home-a little old, a little faded, and utterly relaxing.
As soon as we’d sat down, he pulled open a drawer from under the coffee table at our knees and handed me a magazine. “This’ll give you an idea of why I’m so ambivalent about that tree.”
It was a two-month-old copy of the New York Times Sunday magazine, dedicated to “Great Escapes in New England.” It was doubled-back to an article featuring the inn, in which the ginkgo was resplendent in an opening, edge-to-edge color photograph.
“I see what you mean,” I murmured, leafing through the article.
The following shots were standard fare-the view, the inn, the barn, down the long, narrow dining room at night, complete with candles and contented guests. One picture, of the entrance hall, caught Rarig himself reflected in a wall mirror, looking distracted and morose. It had obviously been his intention to be out of the photographer’s way at the time.