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Visitors to Rawthersay are always made welcome, but there is little on the island for the conventional tourist to do. For the serious student of Caurer’s life and work, a visit is of course essential. No visas are required and there are no anti-havenic laws.

Currency: Archipelagian simoleon, Quietude obolus.

Rawthersay (2)

SPOOR

THE TRACE

The study was lodged high beneath the eaves of the house and it was imbued with traces of him. It had not changed much in the twenty years since I was last there — it was more untidy, a mess of papers and books, standing on, lying beside, heaped below the two tables and a desk. I found it almost impossible to walk across the floor without stepping on his work. Otherwise, the room was much as I remembered it. The window was still uncurtained, the walls unseeable behind the crowded bookcases. His narrow divan bed stood in one corner, now bare of everything except the mattress. I will never forget the tangle of blankets we had left behind when I was here before.

Being there again was a shock. For so long his study, this exact room, had been a memory, a hidden joyful secret, but now it was bereft of him. I could detect the scent of his clothes, his books, his leather document case, the old frayed carpet. His presence was in every darkened corner, in the two squares of bright sunlight on the floor, in the dust on the bookshelves and on the volumes that stood there in untidy leaning lines, in the sticky ochre grime on the window panes, the yellowed papers, the dried careless spills of ink.

I gulped in the air he had breathed, choked by sudden grief. It was incomprehensibly more intense than the shock I felt on receiving the news of his illness, his imminent death. I knew I was rocking to and fro, my back muscles rigid beneath the stiff fabric of my black mourning dress. I was dazed by the loss of him.

Trying to break out of the grief I went to his oaken lectern, where he had always stood to write, his tall shape leaning in an idiosyncratic way as his right hand scraped the pen across the sheets of his writing pad. There was a famous portrait of him in that stance — it was painted before I met him, but it captured the essence of him so well that I later bought a small reproduction of it.

Where his left hand habitually rested on the side, the invariable black-papered cheroot smouldering between his curled knuckles, was a darker patch, a stain of old perspiration on the polish. I ran my fingertips across the wooden surface, recalling a particular half-hour of that precious day, when he had turned his back on me while he stood at this lectern, absorbed by a sudden thought.

That memory of him haunted me as I set out on this desperate quest to reach him before he died. The family had delayed too long in telling me of his illness, perhaps deliberately — a second message I received en route, while waiting in an island transit lounge, broke the news I dreaded, that I was too late to see him. I had travelled across a huge segment of the Dream Archipelago with the unchanging mental image of his long back, his inclined head, his intent eyes, the quiet sound of his pen and the tobacco smoke curling around his hair.

Downstairs the mourners were gathering, awaiting the summons to the church.

I had arrived after most of the other mourners. It had taken me four anxious days to reach Piqay. It was so long since I had made the journey across this part of the Archipelago, I had forgotten how many ports of call there were on the way, how many lengthy delays could be caused by other passengers, by the loading and unloading of cargo. At first the islands charmed me, as always, with their variety of colours, terrains and moods. Their names had memories for me from last journey to Piqay, all those years ago: Lillen-Cay, Ia, Junno, Olldus Precipitus, but they were reminders of that sense of breathless anticipation on the voyage to meet him, or of the quiet, contented thoughts on the journey home. My recollection of the journey home, or experiences ashore, telescoped into one brief episode.

This time the charm soon faded. After the first day on the ship the islands simply seemed to be in my way. The boat sailed slowly across the calm straits between islands. Sometimes I stood for hours at the rail, watching the arrowing wake spreading out from the sides of the vessel, but it soon came to be an illusion of movement. Whenever I looked up from the white churning wake, whichever island we happened to be passing still seemed to be in the same relative position as before, across the narrows. Only the seabirds moved, soaring and diving around the superstructure, and at the stern, but even they went nowhere that the ship did not, and no faster. I wished I had wings.

At the port on Junno I left the ship because I wanted to find out if there was a quicker passage available. After an hour of frustrated enquiries in the harbour offices I returned to the ship on which I had arrived, where they were still unloading timber. The next day, on Muriseay, I managed to find a flight with a private aero club: it was only a short hop by air but it saved visits to the ports of three intervening islands. Afterwards, most of the time I saved slipped away, while I was forced to wait for the next ferry.

At last I arrived on Piqay, but according to the schedule of funeral arrangements that arrived with the news of his death, there was only an hour to spare. To my surprise, the family had arranged for a car to meet me at the quay. A man in a dark suit stood by the harbour entrance, swinging the passenger door open as soon as I appeared. As the driver steered the car swiftly away from Piqay Port and headed into the low hills surrounding the town and its estuary, I felt the commonplace anxieties of travel slipping away. It was even relaxation of a sort. I felt able at last to surrender to the complex of emotions that I had managed to keep at a distance while I fretted about ships and arrival times.

Now they returned in force. Fear of the family I had never met. Apprehension about what they might know about me, or what they might not. Worse, what they intended for me now, the lover whose existence might undermine his reputation, were our affair to become publicly known. The bottomless grief still sucking me down as it had done from the moment I heard the news about his illness, then later his death. My defiant pride in the past. The untouchable sense of loneliness, of being left only with memories of him. The hope, the endless irrational hope that something of him might yet live for me.

And I was still confused about why the family had sent the messages. Were they motivated by concern, by spite, or by just the dutiful acts of a bereaved family? Or perhaps, and this was one of the hopes I clung to tightly, he had remembered me and made the request himself?

But above all these, that endless grief, the loss, the feeling of final abandonment. I had suffered twenty years without him, holding on to an inexpressible hope of seeing him again one day. Now he was gone and I was forced to face the prospect of a life finally, absolutely without him.

The driver said nothing. He drove efficiently. After my four days aboard ships, with engines and generators constantly running, the bulkheads vibrating, the car’s engine felt smooth and almost silent. I looked out of the dark-tinted window at my side, staring at the vineyards as the car speeded along the lanes, glancing at the pastures, at the rocky defiles in the distance, at the patches of bare sandy soil by the roadside. I must have seen these the last time, but I had no memory of them. That visit was a blur of impressions, but at the centre were the few hours I had spent alone with him, brilliant and clear, defined for ever.