After crossing the Styr, Höfler turned off onto the road leading south. Signs marked the way; judging from the map, we had a few hours ahead of us. It was a fine Monday morning, calm, peaceful. The sleeping villages seemed scarcely affected by the war; the checkpoints let us pass without difficulty. To our left, already, the sky was growing paler. A little later the sun, still reddish, appeared through the trees. Thin clumps of mist stuck to the ground; between the villages, large flat fields stretched out interminably, interspersed with copses and hills covered with dense, low foliage. The sky slowly turned blue. “The land must be good here,” Popp commented. I didn’t answer and he was silent. In Radziechow we stopped to eat. Once again, the roadsides and ditches were strewn with wrecked tanks, and burned isbas disfigured the villages. The traffic got thicker; we crossed long columns of trucks loaded with soldiers and supplies. A little before Lemberg, a roadblock forced us to pull aside to let some Panzers pass. The road trembled; whirlwinds of dust obscured our windows and slipped in through the cracks. Höfler offered Popp and me a cigarette. He made a face as he lit his own: “These Sportnixes really stink.”—“They’re all right,” I said, “don’t be so fussy.” After the tanks had passed, a Feldgendarm approached and motioned us not to start up: “There’s another column coming,” he shouted. I finished my cigarette and threw the butt out the door. “Popp is right,” Höfler suddenly said. “It’s a beautiful countryside. A man could settle down here, after the war.”—“You’d come settle here?” I asked him with a smile. He shrugged: “It depends.”—“On what?”—“On the bureaucrats. If they’re like the ones back home, it’s not worth it.”—“And what would you do?”—“If I could do anything, Obersturmführer? I’d open a business, like at home. A nice little cigarette shop, with a bar too, and maybe a fruit and vegetable stand, possibly.”—“And you’d rather do that here than at home?” He banged the steering wheel sharply: “Well, I had to close the store at home. In ’thirty-eight already.”—“Why?”—“Because of those bastards from the cartels, from Reemtsma. They decided we had to make at least five thousand a year, to carry their products. In my village, there are maybe sixty families, so, before you could sell five thousand reichsmarks’ worth of cigarettes…. There was nothing for it, they were the only suppliers. I had the only cigarette store in the village, so our Parteiführer supported me, he wrote letters to the Gauleiter for me, we tried everything, but there was nothing to be done. It ended up in the commercial court and I lost, so I had to close up shop. Vegetables weren’t enough. And then I got drafted.”—“So there’s no cigarette shop in your village now?” Popp said in his muffled voice.—“Well, no, that’s what I said.”—“In my town there never was one.” The second column of Panzers arrived and everything started trembling again. One of the Admiral’s windows had come loose and rattled wildly in its frame. I pointed it out to Höfler and he nodded. The column filed by, endless: the front must still be advancing at full speed. Finally the Feldgendarm signaled to us that the road was clear.
In Lemberg, chaos reigned. None of the soldiers questioned at the checkpoints could tell us where the HQ of the Sicherheitspolizei and the SD was; although the city had been captured two days before, no one seemed to have gone to the trouble of putting up tactical signs. We followed a large street almost at random; it ended up in a long boulevard divided in two by a mall and bordered with pastel-tinted façades prettily decorated with white moldings. The streets were swarming with people. Between the German military vehicles, cars and open trucks circulated, decorated with streamers and blue-and-yellow flags, teeming with men in civilian outfits or sometimes in scraps of uniforms, and armed with rifles and pistols; they shouted, sang, fired their guns in the air; on the sidewalks and in the park, other men, armed or not, cheered them, mixed in with impassive German soldiers. A Leutnant from the Luftwaffe was finally able to point me toward a divisional HQ; from there, we were sent to AOK 17. Officers ran up and down the stairways, came in, went out of offices, slamming doors; scattered, trampled Soviet files cluttered the hallways; in the lobby a group of men were standing with blue-and-yellow armbands on their civilian outfits, carrying rifles; they were talking animatedly in Ukrainian or Polish, I didn’t know which, with some German soldiers wearing badges embossed with a nightingale. I grabbed hold of a young Major from the Abwehr: “Einsatzgruppe B?”—“They got here yesterday. They moved into the NKVD offices.”—“And where are they?” He stared at me with an exhausted look: “I have no idea.” He finally found a subaltern who had been there and told him to help me.
On the boulevard, the traffic crawled along at a snail’s pace, then a crowd blocked everything. I got out of the Opel to see what was happening. The people were yelling at the top of their lungs and applauding; some had taken chairs from a café or some crates and were standing on top of them to get a better look; others were carrying their children on their shoulders. I made my way through the press with difficulty. In the center of the crowd, in a large cleared circle, a few men were strutting about in costumes stolen from a theater or a museum—extravagant outfits, a Regency wig with a hussar’s jacket from 1812, a magistrate’s gown bordered with ermine, Mongolian armor and Scottish tartans, a half-Roman, half-Renaissance operetta costume, with a ruff; one man was wearing Budyenny’s red cavalry uniform, but with a top hat and a fur collar, and was waving a long Mauser pistol; all of them were armed with clubs or rifles. At their feet several men on their knees were licking the pavement; from time to time, one of the men in costume kicked them or hit them with the butt of his rifle; most of them were bleeding profusely; the crowd was screaming louder than ever. Behind me, someone started up a lively tune on the accordion; immediately, dozens of voices struck up the words, while the man in a kilt whipped out a violin on which, since he had no bow, he scraped out chords as on a guitar. A spectator pulled me by the sleeve and shouted at me excitedly, “Yid, yid, kaputt!” But I had already understood. I pulled away and went back through the crowd; Höfler, in the meantime, had turned the car around. “I think we can go that way,” the man from the Abwehr said, pointing to a side street. We soon found ourselves lost. Finally, Höfler had the idea of asking a passerby: “NKVD? NKVD?”—“NKVD kaputt!” the man shouted joyously. With gestures, he showed us the way: it was in fact two hundred meters from the AOK; we had gone in the wrong direction. I dismissed our guide and went in to report. Rasch, they told me, was in a meeting with all his Leiters and some army officers; no one knew when he could receive me. Finally a Hauptsturmführer came to my rescue: “You came here from Lutsk? We’ve already been filled in, the Brigadeführer spoke on the phone with Obergruppenführer Jeckeln. But I’m sure your report will interest him.”—“Good. I’ll wait, then.”—“No need, he’ll be tied up for at least two hours. You should just go visit the city. The old city especially is worth seeing.”—“The people seem excited,” I remarked.—“That’s certainly true. The NKVD massacred three thousand people in the prisons, before they decamped. And also all the Ukrainian and Galician nationalists have come out of the woods, or from wherever they were hiding, and they’re a little worked up. The Jews are going to get it bad.”—“And the Wehrmacht isn’t doing anything?” He winked: “Orders from above, Obersturmführer. The population is clearing out the traitors and collaborators, it’s none of our business. It’s an internal conflict. See you later, then.” He disappeared into an office and I went out. The gunfire coming from the center of town sounded like sticks of firecrackers on a holiday. I left Höfler and Popp with the Opel and headed on foot toward the main boulevard. Under the colonnade a jubilant atmosphere reigned; the doors and windows of the cafés had been thrown wide open, and people were drinking and shouting; people shook my hand in passing; a jovial man offered me a glass of Champagne, which I emptied; before I could return it to him, he had disappeared. Mixed in with the crowd, like at a carnival, men dressed in theater costumes were still parading; some were even wearing masks, amusing, hideous, ridiculous. I crossed the park; on the other side began the old town, entirely different from the Austro-Hungarian boulevard: here, it was all tall narrow houses from the late Renaissance, crowned with pointed roofs, their façades painted in various colors and long past their prime, enhanced with baroque ornaments carved out of stone. There were far fewer people in the narrow streets. A macabre poster filled the window of a closed store: it showed an enlargement of a photo of corpses, with an inscription in Cyrillic; I could only make out the words