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I’d warned Mother long before we set off that she might have to get over her fierce aversion to drugs; she would probably be handed a joint upon arrival. Mother still slept in an XXL T-shirt that said: “Just say NO!” a garment that our cousin Matti had given her after he learned that little Kiddi, his only son, had mortgaged the ancestral home to pay for his LSD habit. Ever since, Mother had detested recreational substances other than alcohol. She often talked about how awful and sad it was that she could not build a little summer cottage on the land she grew up on. The dealers had cheated her of that. They were thugs from Estonia and Lithuania who had invaded the country to ruin our youth, men who raped women and swindled the very land away from good Icelanders. Mother had never forgiven the Baltics for declaring independence during very difficult times in the history of the USSR. She blamed it on Iceland’s former Minister of Foreign Affairs, Jón Baldvin Hannibalsson, “a lounge socialist who snuggled up to the conservatives as soon as he got the chance.” And now these Baltic mobsters were flocking to Reykjavik with their dope, that’s all the thanks we got for supporting them in betraying old Soviet Russia. Pimps and junkies, like the ones who corrupted little Kiddi. She would never be manipulated into taking these chemical death drugs that robbed good people of their health and reason. That road was a dead end: bankruptcy and emotional ruin.

“Old Lowland,” the driver said and pointed to a handsome house at the end of the track. The grounds opened up as we drove on: yellowish fields sheltered by evergreens that spread out between whitewashed buildings. Rusty machinery grew into the ground, on top of which sat a lady enjoying an ice cream. The scene looked like something from Mother’s subconscious on a good sherry day. She loved Fellini and Buñuel and some Czech fellow who made movies about pigs and old cars. It all reminded me of these friends of hers from the silver screen.

“Here, Mam,” the driver said, looking toward the building in front of us. Mother’s head seemed to pop out of the glass pane. She started and looked around.

“Jetlag, Mam,” the driver said. “I don’t know it myself but I’ve heard about it: some are unlucky and can’t sleep, but you are very lucky, Mam. You slept on the freeway.”

Mother, who was obviously still half-lost in her dreamy dialogue with the car window, looked quizzically at me: Where are we? The driver beat me to it: “It’s very good for Mam to sleep, Mam. Now she is pretty for her meeting with Mister Doctor Frederik.” She giggled at the word pretty and the Indian shot out of the car to open the door for her.

“Now, here we have a proper gentleman who knows how to treat a lady,” she said, laughing as she got out. “May I ask how to address such a gentleman?”

“Ramji, Mam. I am Ramji the driver,” he said and made his way to the steps that led up to the entrance of the building. Tall, French windows looked out into the yard and on the garret there were oval windows with opaque, industrial glass that reflected the surrounding landscape. A fountain with Renaissance style statues stood in the middle of the gravel-filled driveway where Ramji had parked the car. Mother gaped at the vision. While we waited to be taken inside, I told her that the house had been built in colonial times as a hunting lodge for a wealthy merchant, one of Rembrandt’s clients. The master painter had probably spent some time in the house, making it one of the country’s notable historical buildings.

“They’d like it here, Nikolaj and Julie,” she said, referring to characters from a Danish drama series we watched back home on Spítala Street. “I do hope they make up. I think it’s wrong of them to throw everything away because of one mistake. She just has to forgive him. So what if he strayed a little bit, don’t we all? But this house. . it’s like Madame Antoinette herself should be strolling about somewhere. What a gem, Trooper. You truly are a genius.”

Ramji came trotting back down the steps. “Is Mam rested?”

“Oh, yes. I think I’ll actually have a little schnapps now.” She fished out a miniature from her handbag, a bulbous little flask she called her “lifesaver,” which she prized over other miniatures because it held 100 ml instead of the normal 50. She took a swig and then handed the flask to Ramji, who at first stared in disbelief, but then smiled and shook his head. Mother laughed and gulped down the rest of the contents. It had taken Ramji half an hour to establish a form of communication with Mother that I couldn’t remember anyone else managing, even over several decades. My respect for this gracious, burping driver was constantly growing.

“We wait here until Doctor Frederik arrives, or Helga, Mam,” he said.

“HelgaMam?”

“The director, sir, HelgaMam. She is a very clever lady.”

As soon as he finished the sentence the door opened and out came a woman who surely had to be HelgaMam: she was short but sprightly, in a knee-length, green dress that emphasized her womanly curves, alert and without that affected elegance of career women that always lulled me into a drowsy state of composure. She strode down the steps and welcomed us warmly to Lowland.

“I am so pleased to meet you, Mrs. Briem, right? And Mr. Willyson? I’m Helga Wiestock. Our offices and the doctor’s apartment are here on the second floor, but our reception room is downstairs. Would you like a refreshment?”

“I could do with a glass of white,” Mother said in Icelandic and gave her hips a little shake. I had obviously made a mistake by not letting Ramji take us to the hotel. I was about to call it all off until the next morning when HelgaMam spoke.

“I have to apologize for the long ride. Ramji is an excellent driver but. .”

“Oh, Ramji!” Mother exclaimed, fired up by her lifesaver. “What a wonderful man.”

“I thought he’d take you to the hotel. If you’d rather come back in the morning then. .”

“Gar nicht,” Mother answered. “I never get jetlagged. I would appreciate a little schnapps or a glass of white wine.”

“Of course!” HelgaMam didn’t skip a beat. “My office is across the field. If you’d care to walk with me I’ll tell you a bit about our work here. Then we’ll drop in on Dr. Fred and see if he can’t get us a drink.”

Ein wunderbares Traum, glaubst du nicht, mein Schatz?” Mother asked, refusing to acknowledge that I didn’t understand her theater German. “I was just saying to my son that this is like coming to Versailles.”

“I’m pleased to hear it, Mrs. Briem. Many of our guests prefer to stay at Lowland while others like being in the city. That’s just the way it goes. You’ll be staying in a hotel in Amsterdam, right?”

“To begin with,” I said. “We’re going to look for an apartment.”

“You can see that not all mothers are as lucky as I am. He’s doing this all for me, my Super Trooper.”

The director grinned and we walked across the grass. She told us about the old cottages that were the servants’ quarters before Libertas took over the estate and converted them into patient housing.

“We have six people staying with us now. Two from my country, then we’ve got Americans and Italians. We were twelve all in all until yesterday; counting myself, Ramji, the doctor, and the two German girls we have volunteering this summer, but our good, old Gombrowich departed last night.”