It was sad. And maybe Jake was making it worse, taking photos that would only attract more people to spoil what was previously unspoiled. And maybe, he thought, he should stop punishing himself for the way the universe worked.
His mind clicked back into gear; he recognized the name. Chemda. Chemda Tek. A beautiful Cambodian girl from Phnom Penh. She spoke English. American-educated. A lawyer or something with an NGO. Maybe the UN? The tribunals by the airport in Phnom Penh. He’d met her at the Foreign Correspondents’ Club.
“Chemda Tek. What’s she doing here?”
“Well, it’s Tek Chemda, technically. Khmers reverse their names like the Chinese. Family name first, pretty name second. But she’s Americanized, so yep, Chemda Tek.”
Jake said nothing.
Ty said, “So you remember her. Cute, right?”
Jake shrugged.
“Well, I hadn’t noticed.”
“Yeah… rrrright.”
“No. Really. The fact she looks like one of the dancing apsaras of Angkor Thom had completely escaped me. Mate.”
They chinked glasses and chuckled.
Tyrone said, “She’s at the hospital.”
The single word hospital unsettled Jake, somewhere deep. He moved the conversation forward.
“She’s OK?”
“Yeah, yeah, she’s fine. But it’s an odd situation.”
“Why?”
“She’s with some Cambodian professors.”
“Here in Laos?” Jake was mystified. “I thought she was working on the Khmer Rouge stuff. Reconciliation. In PP.”
“She was, sure.” Tyrone repressed a burp with a drunken hand and gazed out at the street. A hammer-and-sickle flag hung limply from a concrete lamppost in the gloom: in the jungly darkness the Communist red looked darkest gray.
Jake pressed the point: he wanted to know more. Tyrone explained. He’d met Chemda on the street near the hospital. She was in Laos to visit the Plain of Jars with a pair of old Cambodian professors, themselves victims of, or associated with, the Khmer Rouge, the onetime and long-hated genocidal Maoist government of Cambodia.
“Why the Plain of Jars?” asked Jake.
Tyrone finished his beer and explained.
“Apparently, during the Khmer Rouge era, these historians were made to go there — seems the Communists made them go to the Plain of Jars to look at something.”
“Sorry?”
“You know what the Plain of Jars is, right?”
Jake faltered a reply: “Big… old… stone… jars. Sitting in…” He paused. “A plain?”
They laughed.
Tyrone continued: “Plain of Jars: two-thousand-year-old jars. Big fuckers. Near Phonsavan. Saw them years back. Boring but curious. No one knows who built them or why.”
“But what’ve they got to do with…”
“The KR? The Khmer Rouge?” Ty smiled affably. “Ain’t got a clue. But the Rouge and the Pathet Lao were obsessed with the Jars, it seems, and they researched them in the seventies, coercing these historians, maybe — and Chemda is trying to find out why—”
“And?”
“The whole thing back in the seventies obviously freaked out the professors. Something happened there, or they found something there.”
“But why the hospital? Why’s she here?”
A tuk-tuk clattered past, two-stroke engine coughing fumes into the soft tropical night. Barefoot German girls were laughing in the back as they counted out wads of kip. “Kharb jai, danke schön, kharb jai.”
Tyrone smiled at Jake. “The prof, it seems, stepped on a bombie. One of those little butter-yellow cluster bastards. You know that whole area is mined and lethal — all that fine American ordnance—”
“That bit I know. You guys did a proper job on Laos.”
Tyrone nodded; Jake persisted: “Didn’t the Yanks drop more bombs on Laos, in the Vietnam War, than on the whole of Germany—in the entire Second World War?”
“Hey. Please. We dropped more bombs here than on Germany and Japan combined.” Ty sighed, personably. “Anyhow. Where was I. Yeah. This crazy professor took a wrong turning and got half his fucking leg blown off. And Chemda had to bring him to the nearest hospital, which — given what a crappy little squatter of a country Laos is — was all the way here to Vang. A long day’s drive with this poor bastard bleeding out in the back of the pickup—”
“And now?”
“She’s heading back. Finish the job, get the answer. She’s a determined girl, that one. Like her dynasty.” Tyrone turned and motioned to the bar boy. “Sabaydee. Two lao beers? Kharb jai.”
“Heading back to the Plain of Jars?”
“Tomorrow. Yeah. ’S what she told me. She heard on the vine we had finished our assignment, so she wondered if I’d like to cover the story. For the Phnom Penh Post, New York Times, ya know. I told her I didn’t care how intriguing it all is, I’m doing this coffee-table gig for fun, I need a break from the wartime stuff — and anyhow, I’d rather have drunken sex with a senior ayatollah than spend four days on Laotian roads, going to see a bunch of enormous stone cookie jars.”
Tyrone paused and gazed at Jake’s pensive expression. He groaned.
“Oh God. Color me fucking stupid. You wanna do it, don’t you? You want the story. You want to cover it. Make a name for yourself at last!”
3
“So what happened here, in the Plain of Jars?”
Chemda stared at Jake across the cabin of the pickup. Her eyes were deep dark brown, like whiskey aged in sherry casks; she had a slight nervousness about her, mixed with fierce determination. Intelligence and anxiety. She was maybe twenty-eight years old. He had met her only once or twice before: on the fringes of passionate conversations, dark and heavy discussions about Cambodian corruption and peasant evictions and journalistic power plays, on the roof terrace of the Foreign Correspondents’ Club in Phnom Penh, the terrace that gazed over the noisy boulevards and the wide, lazy Tonle Sap river.
“You are a journalist? You do understand Cambodian politics?”
Jake felt the pinch of sarcasm in her words.
“Well, yes, I do. But…”
“The Cambodian government is under intense pressure to…” She sought the words. “Atone. To put the Khmer Rouge leadership on trial, to seek the truth of what happened in the 1970s. When so many died. As you know?”
“Of course. Though… the genocide, I’m never sure how many died. I mean, I hear different opinions.”
“A quarter of the population.” Chemda’s firm but quiet voice, lilting, almost tender, made her revelation all the more sobering. “The Khmer Rouge killed, through starvation or extermination, a quarter of my people. Two million dead.”
A chastening silence ensued. Jake stared out of the pickup window. They were way up in the misty hills now, in central Laos; they had been driving for fifteen hours on the worst roads he had ever encountered: he understood why Tyrone had refused to make the journey; he understood why they had been obliged to leave before dawn if they wanted to do it in one day.
The route on the map showed the distance was just a few hundred kilometers, and theoretically this was the main road in Laos, but when the road wasn’t rudely potholed it was badly waterlogged or simply blocked; dogs and goats and chickens and cattle wandered on and off the asphalt, children played an inch from thundering trucks. Several times they had been obliged to halt by broken-down trucks, or by muddy washouts where they had to lay big flat stones under the helplessly whirring wheels.