Still wearing his helmet, the signalman is kneeling in the grass, his head against the rusty bottom of the door of the shrine. The words I hear now are spoken by a chorus of voices.
God is helpless. He is helpless out of love. If he had retained power he would not love as he does. Dear God aid us in our helplessness.
He gets to his feet as if he had been on his knees to look for something he had dropped. And, as he walks away, he takes off his helmet.
Gino takes me to a place called Zibello where the river is very wide, more than a kilometre across and with islands in it. We get out of his Mercedes van with all the shirts and socks in the back, and he leads me by the hand without a word to a wooden landing-stage built out over the water. Several boats are attached to it and there’s nobody there. Because of the heels of my sandals — I’m wearing my white ones — I look down at the gaps between the slats of the platform; I don’t want to trip. And there I see a dead cat floating in the water.
No, I say, get me out of here! Take me to a park or a decent café in Cremona.
Ninon, don’t get excited. I brought you here to show you something
Then be quick about it.
You see the island there?
The one where the trees come down to the water?
Yes, that’s where we’re going. We’re going to that island.
What for?
To lie with you.
It’s finished, Gino. I don’t want to fuck any more.
I’m still going to take you there.
You know I can kill you, Gino. All I need do is to smear a smear of my blood across your teeth and you’ll die a probably horrible death, a year or two after me.
Wait till we get there.
No means No for both of us, and I’m saying No.
Sit on the cushions.
The boat rocks as I climb in and makes a splashing noise. Otherwise, the river is completely silent.
It’s very low in the water, I tell him.
You know what they’re called, these boats, Ninon?
What?
They’re called barchini. The Venetians took the idea for their gondolas from here. On a river as big as the Po, you need to watch all the while where you’re going, you can’t row like an idiot and every so often glance back over your shoulder as happens in an ordinary rowboat, you have to know where you want to aim and you have to keep your eyes skinned, or the river sweeps you away as she’s taking the big tree over there, as I’ve seen her take oxen and lorries. So somebody invented the barchino which allows you to row and see where you’re going.
Gino and I are alone on the immense, opaque, yellowish sheet of water. We’re so low in the water I don’t know where the water ends. I can’t see the bank. The trunk of a big grey tree drifts past us with a bird perched on one of its branches.
Look at the bird!
It’s a sandpiper, says Gino — a piovanello.
I twist round to check where we’re heading. We are heading straight for the island.
No means No for both of us! I repeat.
He nods, but he’s concentrated on what he’s doing with the two oars. He rows standing up and he leans forward on the two oars as if he was using them as crutches. With each stroke, he somehow flicks the foot of the crutch like a dog shakes a leg dry when it comes out of the water, but Gino does the flick of the oar in the water. There’s nobody to be seen anywhere.
You come often here? I ask him.
No, not since Pedro drowned.
Drowned?
Upstream where the railway bridge crosses the Po at Cremona.
Why did he drown?
He fell in.
He couldn’t swim?
He could swim, sì.
I look at Gino. He’s still flicking each oar, one after the other, like a dog its hind leg, and he’s still standing there very tall. I put my hand in the water which strikes cold. You can’t see through it, it’s as opaque as a blanket, even milk is more transparent than this water.
When I was a kid I used to go with my father on his motorbike across the mountains where the shepherds live.
Why do I tell Gino this? I know why. Since a minute or two the barchino has changed direction, and I’ve felt a force tugging us which makes me think of the horsepower of Papa’s bike. Its pull is deep down and doesn’t vary, and its horsepower is more than anybody can reckon. I glance at the far bank and I see how we’re moving fast, whatever the water says.
We’ve missed the island, Gino. We’ve missed it.
The current is tugging the barchino downstream. Nothing can stop it. The water’s on every side now. In the mountains, glaciers do the same thing. The river is fast and the glacier is slow but nothing can stop them.
Gino, what are we doing?
We’re crossing to the island.
Suddenly I understand: he wants to kill me. He thinks it’ll be better this way. Perhaps he wants to kill us both. A suicide pact on the Po. Except it’s not a pact. He didn’t ask me.
Stop it, Gino, stop it! Get us to the bank, I want to stop!
All the while leaning on the oars like crutches, he shakes his head. Don’t be frightened, Ninon, I know what I’m doing.
His words calm me. I don’t know why. Maybe he’s lying. I shut my eyes. The immense energy of the Po, carrying us away, is like the energy of sleep when you fall into it. It’s irresistible. I know with my eyes closed tight that this is something true, not just in my head. The river air on my forehead is cold as we gather speed.
Get us to the bank! I don’t want to die.
A long time ago when I still had my eyes open, the water was flat; only when it came up against something it wasn’t carrying away at its own speed, did it form a wave. Now with my eyes closed, I feel from my hips and from the cushions I’m sitting on, that there’s a swell which monstrously rises and falls, lifting the boat and us with it. The patience of this swell is the worst, for it tells me that what is carrying us is liquid, is unstoppable and is too vast to even notice us.
Something like a cord grazes across my cheek. I raise my hand and a willow branch runs through my fingers. I try to hold on to it and it tears itself away from the tree.
I don’t believe my eyes. We are close up under the far bank of the river and the water is still.
What the hell do you want now, Gino? I say.
We paddle upstream, he says, then we cross the other arm of the Po, and we reach the island.
You can’t go against the current.
If we come to the point of the island from this side there’s no current.
I thought we were going to drown.
You should have trusted me more than that, he says.
Are you sure there’s no current by the tip of the island?
He nods.
What do you want to show me, Gino?
How to get to the island.
No means No, Gino. No means No.
If you don’t want to, you needn’t get out of the boat, he says.
Then why the fuck go?
To see how we get there.
To prove what a good boatman you are! I tell him.
No, to show you how we’re going to live, you and I.
I did what Gino told me. I didn’t get out of the boat. But in my rage I pulled a handful of long grass from the bank of the island and I took it home with me. Gino’s grass.
15
Jean Ferrero found the pizzeria by chance because he took a wrong turning in the petrol-town of Cortemaggiore and it was the crowd of men laughing by the door who attracted his attention when he was asking his way for Cremona. Inside there’s a long table down the middle of the eating saloon, and thirty or more men are sitting at it. The walls are in white tiles. He has found a small table near the ovens, from where he can keep an eye on his bike in the street.