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  They reach a large village;  The street is deserted    Except for small children,  And inside the houses    Sit only the oldest  Of all the old women. 50
  The wickets are fastened  Securely with padlocks;    The padlock's a loyal  And vigilant watch-dog;    It barks not, it bites not,  But no one can pass it.
  They walk through the village  And see a clear mirror    Beset with green framework—  A pond full of water; 60
  And over its surface  Are hovering swallows    And all kinds of insects;
The gnats quick and meagre    Skip over the water  As though on dry land;
  And in the laburnums  Which grow on the banksides    The landrails are squeaking.
A raft made of tree-trunks 70    Floats near, and upon it  The pope's heavy daughter    Is wielding her beetle,  She looks like a hay-stack,    Unsound and dishevelled,  Her skirts gathered round her.
  Upon the raft, near her,  A duck and some ducklings    Are sleeping together.
  And hark! from the water 80  The neigh of a horse comes;    The peasants are startled,    They turn all together:
Two heads they see, moving    Along through the water—  The one is a peasant's,    A black head and curly,  In one ear an ear-ring    Which gleams in the sunlight;
A horse's the other, 90    To which there is fastened  A rope of some yards length,    Held tight in the teeth  Of the peasant beside it.
  The man swims, the horse swims;  The horse neighs, the man neighs;    They make a fine uproar!
The raft with the woman    And ducklings upon it  Is tossing and heaving. 100
  The horse with the peasant  Astride has come panting    From out of the water,  The man with white body    And throat black with sunburn;
The water is streaming    From horse and from rider.
"Say, why is your village    So empty of people?  Are all dead and buried?" 110
  "They've gone to Kousminsky;  A fair's being held there    Because it's a saint's day."
"How far is Kousminsky?"    "Three versts, I should fancy."
"We'll go to Kousminsky,"    The peasants decided,  And each to himself thought,    "Perhaps we shall find there  The happy, the free one." 120
  The village Kousminsky  Is rich and commercial    And terribly dirty.
It's built on a hill-side,    And slopes down the valley,  Then climbs again upwards,—    So how could one ask of it  Not to be dirty?[15]
  It boasts of two churches.  The one is "dissenting," 130    The other "Established."
The house with inscription,    "The School-House," is empty,  In ruins and deserted;    And near stands the barber's,  A hut with one window,    From which hangs the sign-board  Of "Barber and Bleeder."
  A dirty inn also  There is, with its sign-board 140    Adorned by a picture:  A great nosy tea-pot    With plump little tea-cups  Held out by a waiter,    Suggesting a fat goose  Surrounded by goslings.
  A row of small shops, too,  There is in the village.
  The peasants go straight  To the market-place, find there 150    A large crowd of people  And goods in profusion.
  How strange!—notwithstanding  There's no church procession    The men have no hats on,  Are standing bare-headed,    As though in the presence  Of some holy Image:    Look, how they're being swallowed—  The hoods of the peasants.[16] 160
The beer-shop and tavern    Are both overflowing;  All round are erected    Large tents by the roadside  For selling of vodka.
  And though in each tent  There are five agile waiters,    All young and most active,  They find it quite hopeless    To try to get change right. 170
Just look how the peasants    Are stretching their hands out,  With hoods, shirts, and waistcoats!
Oh, you, thirst of Russia,    Unquenchable, endless  You are! But the peasant,    When once he is sated,  Will soon get a new hood    At close of the fair….
The spring sun is playing 180    On heads hot and drunken,  On boisterous revels,    On bright mixing colours;
The men wear wide breeches    Of corduroy velvet,    With gaudy striped waistcoats  And shirts of all colours;
  The women wear scarlet;  The girls' plaited tresses    Are decked with bright ribbons; 190  They glide about proudly,    Like swans on the water.
Some beauties are even    Attired in the fashion  Of Petersburg ladies;    Their dresses spread stiffly  On wide hoops around them;
  But tread on their skirts—  They will turn and attack you,    Will gobble like turkeys! 200
Blame rather the fashion    Which fastens upon you  Great fishermen's baskets!
  A woman dissenter  Looks darkly upon them,    And whispers with malice:
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15

The mud and water from the high lands on both sides descend and collect in the villages so situated, which are often nearly transformed into swamps during the rainy season.

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16

On feast days the peasants often pawn their clothes for drink.